Mazda 6 Forums banner

61 - 80 of 92 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
With these things one can never be sure, as there is no reliable way to trigger it. Changing the car battery did not fix it. Changing the (obviously dying) battery on the keyfob may have done the trick.

Fingers crossed...
I've changed the battery on the keyfob, which does not work.

Is there anyone still suffering this issue when the door actuators have been replaced with new ones ?

I am afraid of spending big bucks but useless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
The same thing was happening to my car after I replaced a battery with a new one. What I did is I removed the battery and put it back again. It has stopped since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
If this is happening to so many car's why is not a recall! My 2009 Mazda 6 is doing the same thing. Anytime it want's this morning at 5:30am my neighbors are getting upset. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
My 2007 Mazda 6 GT has just started doing this. I swear my neighbors are going to mob me. This is only the first night of this issue, I have disconnected my battery but I'm in a bit of a bind. I absolutely cannot afford to have my local bank robbers, er, Mazda dealership read my security code to see what is causing the alarms. Will any shop be able to read this code?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Where is the alarm horn fuse please?

Good info, going to check if my rear sensors trip by cracking the window and pulling on them while the doors are closed. Already had the screw recall done awhile back and that didn't fix it.

Had same issue on my 09 Mazda 6 s over a year ago. Seemed like it would trigger on really hot days (Texas). I replaced key fob battery and car battery checked good. Got tired of it and took out the horn fuse.
My 2010/01 6SL alarm often sounds by itself for 30secs just like the others here.
So I intend to remove the alarm horn fuse if I can find it. ....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I'm having this same alarm issue in a 2003. I've temporarily disconnected the horn. Is there a way to just disconnect the alarm system? Or maybe bypass the door actuators?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
We have the same issues with our car and the dealer can't figure our what's wrong with it.(or they don't want to) It has been happening for years; sometimes multiple times a day then nothing happens for months, then it goes off again a couple of times. Only thing I noticed is that it seems to happen more often when the temperatures are higher. It's annoying!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Solution to Mazda 6 alarm randomly going off

I have a 2009 Mazda 6 that had alarm going off randomly. The random alarm drained the car battery in airport parking once. For years, I had to leave the door unlocked so the alarm wouldn't wake up the neighbors. The alarm would still go off after changing the car battery. The Mazda repair department denied that other Mazda 6s were having this problem. I asked them to disable the alarm & they said that it was illegal to disable the horn for safety reasons. Once, they told me that there was faulty wiring in one of the rear passenger doors & it would cost $700 to replace the door...I opted to just live with the problem rather than pay $700. Then 6 months ago (after 5 years of this problem), I mentioned the problem again and a different service guy sprayed WD40 on the lock latches on all the doors, I can lock my car again and the alarm hasn't gone off randomly anymore...cost: $0.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,508 Posts
Yea, i know this is late to the game, but Fords have this same problem, the interior light switch is in the door latch (for those who didnt know this) and ive narrowed my issue down to the hatch switch. I believe someone had tried to pop it during the PO's time with the car and may have damaged the switch. I havent dug into it yet, but i noticed that if i unlock the car and open the hatch that the dome lights do not come on and the car locks itself within a few seconds, so i have to open a side door to keep that from happening.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Had the same issues for the longest time. When I had my car in for service, I asked them to tell me the last security alarm triggers. It was the right rear door switch. I replaced both door switch assemblies and no more issues...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,508 Posts
Had the same issues for the longest time. When I had my car in for service, I asked them to tell me the last security alarm triggers. It was the right rear door switch. I replaced both door switch assemblies and no more issues...
Ah, good idea. Maybe when i FINALLY go in to do my airbag recall, ill get it to go off so i can ask them the same thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Reviving an old thread - and to be able to refer to the post later.

I started noticing that my lights do not flicker when the key fob lock button is pressed once. It used to do it before. I think that has something to do with the alarm going off at random times. I was recently out of the country when the car started freaking out - and of course the neighbors started complaining, so I had someone tow the car offsite and remove the battery cable for the time being I was away. For now I have the horn fuse (relay) removed.

- Verified all doors are closed
- Verified all fuses good, both kickpanel and engine bay
- Verified trunk, hood, and moonroof are closed
- Key fob battery checked/replaced (shouldn't be an issue anyway)

I have an ODBII scanner; it has the ability to read freeze frame data, but it's not coming up with anything. Either the alarm condition hasn't happened since batteries were reconnected or it's only readable by the dealer.

I suspect it's either the rear door latch mechanism that a lot of people here have experienced, or possibly the hood sensor. Not sure how to diagnose.

Edit 12/11/16: It appears the hood latch sensor could be the problem. I think a piece of flimsy metal is supposed to contact another metal tab thus closing the circuit when the hood is closed. I've moved it around a bit and it appears it's touching the tab again. Maybe I need to clean the area or slightly bend it to ensure it touches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Reviving an old thread - and to be able to refer to the post later.

I started noticing that my lights do not flicker when the key fob lock button is pressed once. It used to do it before. I think that has something to do with the alarm going off at random times. I was recently out of the country when the car started freaking out - and of course the neighbors started complaining, so I had someone tow the car offsite and remove the battery cable for the time being I was away. For now I have the horn fuse (relay) removed.

- Verified all doors are closed
- Verified all fuses good, both kickpanel and engine bay
- Verified trunk, hood, and moonroof are closed
- Key fob battery checked/replaced (shouldn't be an issue anyway)

I have an ODBII scanner; it has the ability to read freeze frame data, but it's not coming up with anything. Either the alarm condition hasn't happened since batteries were reconnected or it's only readable by the dealer.

I suspect it's either the rear door latch mechanism that a lot of people here have experienced, or possibly the hood sensor. Not sure how to diagnose.

Edit 12/11/16: It appears the hood latch sensor could be the problem. I think a piece of flimsy metal is supposed to contact another metal tab thus closing the circuit when the hood is closed. I've moved it around a bit and it appears it's touching the tab again. Maybe I need to clean the area or slightly bend it to ensure it touches.
I wonder if you have fixed your problem. I'm currently stuck with alarm going off randomly. I've tried all sorts of obd2 readers (including the Mazda IDS software) but none of them show any alarm related info. I guess I'm missing something...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
2007 Mazda 6 wagon V6

I'm having only the drivers side working.

So many electrical issues with my car. Looking to trade in or sell now and concerned that this will sig effect trade in value/sale price.

Here's a list:
Seat has adjusted by itself, squishing me into the steering wheel.
Alarm goes of randomly.
Doors look on their own.
Power windows randomly do not work.

As stated I want to get rid of it. Should I invest the time/money to try and figure it out or just sell as is?

Any ideas of prices to fix the electrical on this mode?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Reviving an old thread...
My 2010 6 gt has been doing this as well for a while now.

The battery is fine. Saw some thread regarding checking the freeze frame memory for codes and checking the hood and door switches for continuity.

My question is, has anyone just wired out the bad sensors? I don't care if the alarm works (no one pays attention as proven by the random events).

Even if the code shows a specific switch, I don't feel it's worth $60 or more to make a worthless alarm system functional.

So has anyone just removed the plug from the switch and either connected the 2 wires or just left the circuit open?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I just had this same issue repaired on my '09 6. Took it to the dealer and they scanned the computer with their reader. They said the system keeps the last 10 occurrences of alarm triggers in it's memory. All 10 times were triggered by the rear driver side door. They replaced the door lock/latch assembly, and the problem went away. Here is exactly what was written on my service invoice.


COULD NOT VERIFY CONCERN AT THIS TIME.
HOWEVER, PULLED UP DATALOGGER FUNCTION VIA MAZDA IDS SCANNER TO MONITOR ALL DOOR SWITCHES, HOOD SWITCH, TRUNK SWITCH, KEYLESS ENTRY REQUEST SWITCHES, ETC. TO MAKE SURE THERE WAS NOTHING STICKING ELECTRONICALLY THAT WOULD CAUSE ALARM TO GO OFF BY ITSELF--ALL SWITCHES ARE OPERATING NORMALLY AT THIS TIME. INSPECTED FREEZE FRAME DATA FOR BURGLAR ALARM TO DETERMINE WHAT TRIGGERED ALARM TO ACTIVATE THE LAST 10 TIMES. ALL 10 OF THE LAST "TRIGGER EVENTS" WERE CAUSED BY THE LEFT REAR DOOR. THIS INDICATES THAT THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH THE LEFT REAR DOOR LOCK/LATCH ASSEMBLY.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
I just had this same issue repaired on my '09 6. Took it to the dealer and they scanned the computer with their reader. They said the system keeps the last 10 occurrences of alarm triggers in it's memory. All 10 times were triggered by the rear driver side door. They replaced the door lock/latch assembly, and the problem went away. Here is exactly what was written on my service invoice.


COULD NOT VERIFY CONCERN AT THIS TIME.
HOWEVER, PULLED UP DATALOGGER FUNCTION VIA MAZDA IDS SCANNER TO MONITOR ALL DOOR SWITCHES, HOOD SWITCH, TRUNK SWITCH, KEYLESS ENTRY REQUEST SWITCHES, ETC. TO MAKE SURE THERE WAS NOTHING STICKING ELECTRONICALLY THAT WOULD CAUSE ALARM TO GO OFF BY ITSELF--ALL SWITCHES ARE OPERATING NORMALLY AT THIS TIME. INSPECTED FREEZE FRAME DATA FOR BURGLAR ALARM TO DETERMINE WHAT TRIGGERED ALARM TO ACTIVATE THE LAST 10 TIMES. ALL 10 OF THE LAST "TRIGGER EVENTS" WERE CAUSED BY THE LEFT REAR DOOR. THIS INDICATES THAT THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH THE LEFT REAR DOOR LOCK/LATCH ASSEMBLY.
this is a common issue with lincolns and the accepted permanent fix is to spray WD40 wildly into the latch mechanism followed by opening/closing the door a few times. i fixed my own lincoln like this. this may work for mazda as well?
https://www.google.com/search?q=lincoln+alarm+wd40
figure it's free and easy, may as well mention it. if anyone tries it, please advise if it is successful or not.
https://www.google.com/search?q=lincoln+alarm+wd40
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
my alarm went nuts while i was at work. after it happened 3x i went out there and WD'd the latches, opened and closed the doors 10x, and the problem has not re-occured. :nerd:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Bought a 2009 Mazda6 recently, which we knew had the random alarm issue along with fob issues, plus it smells damp inside.... It was at the dealer for two weeks trying to fix it:

They found and fixed a water leak that was going down into the ECM- they replaced it, but still alarm going off.

They replaced and reprogrammed a new fob- alarm when off when they brought it up to the front for my wife to pick it up.

They had already checked the battery of course, which was just two months old and it tested stronger than specifications. (After all this when back home, I measured it myself and it’s a strong one at about 12.4 volts when car is off.)

Next they tracked through the stored codes after the ECM was replaced, and it was showing a back door sensor tripping- so they replaced that but.... alarm went off again within a few hours of bringing it back home. Grrrr!

Meanwhile, I’m out $1,300 and it’s still got a gremlin running loose in its crap electrical system!!

.... got out the WD40 can, sprayed all door, hood and trunk latches, then opened and closed them a dozen times and voila... no alarm issues for a week now.

I wish I’d seen this thread about three weeks ago!!!!!
 
61 - 80 of 92 Posts
Top