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Similar Problem... different answer???

I've had a mazda 6 with the horn going off randomly whether locked or not.

I read this thread before bringing it to the dealer and mentioned things that had popped up on here.

In the end....
They fixed the screws on the rear door/hinge that is the recall. They said this is not the cause of my alarm going off after running the tests.

The dealer ran the tests for $160.00 and said

"Found two activated history codes for left and right rear outside handle switches. Both have internal electrical faults per pulletin 09-0241.0 Recommend replacing both left and right rear handle switches"

Estimated repair $539.51

Any thoughts on this?
 

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I just had this problem myself happening for over a month. My alarm would go off middle of the night at least 2 nights a week and who knows how much when I was away from the car. I took it into Mazda and it was the 2 rear door actuators were tripping the alarm acting if the door was opening. So all in all it came out to around 250 something to get this fixed. Bullshit if you ask me but the peace of mind of not having to wake up in the middle of the night or leave my doors unlocked is nice haha
 
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My husband is out of town w key and the alarm keeps going off any solution to make it stop without a key?
 

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Mine started doing this a few months ago. I get the dome lights and door ajar light flicker as well. Sound like I would just preemptively replace both rear door actuators since at least one person has had both go bad. It seems that would be cheaper than diagnostics, and no one has had a front door fail yet.
 

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Just replaced both of mine( not sure if both were bad, but why not when its a problem piece and its cheaper than diagnosing which side is bad). FYI the "star bolts" are T30 (torx). Pretty easy. I goofed and hit add to cart next to the wrong PN so I ended up with a front door actuator on the back right. As far as I can tell the only functional difference is its missing the child safety lock so it can't be opened from the inside, no big deal for me. I'll teach my kids not to open the door and jump out of a moving vehicle. Worked for me when I was a kid.

And considering no one has reported a front failure, makes me wonder if I should have done that on purpose.
 

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My 2013 Mazda 6S GT never did this, but the 2010 I just bought used in July started doing it a couple of weeks ago. I'm glad to find this thread and will send the link to the dealer. I purchased an extended warranty and prepaid maintenance contract so the fix should be $0. :D Thanks!

UPDATE: They replaced the rear door actuators but I still had issues with the alarm randomly going off at work and at home, so I already sold it (4 months after buying it). Plus when I would get out of the car and start walking around the front of it, the doors would automatically lock on me. I couldn't figure out what was happening so that was one more reason to sell it. The last straw was that I was noticing brakes grinding when I was almost stopped at a light. The Mazda dealer checked and the pads still had 80-90% left, but they were not Mazda pads. I didn't want to pay for a brake job to get the Mazda pads. Yet another reason I sold it.

My son said "really, Mom, I can understand a second car, but one that looks identical (except it had navi and rear spoiler)?" I just wanted a DD to keep the miles down on my 2013, and the 2010 also had the very desirable (to me) 3.7L V6. Now I am getting impatient to find another second car for a DD, not sure what it will be this time.

Sorry to hijack the thread.
 

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Just replaced both of mine( not sure if both were bad, but why not when its a problem piece and its cheaper than diagnosing which side is bad). FYI the "star bolts" are T30 (torx). Pretty easy. I goofed and hit add to cart next to the wrong PN so I ended up with a front door actuator on the back right. As far as I can tell the only functional difference is its missing the child safety lock so it can't be opened from the inside, no big deal for me. I'll teach my kids not to open the door and jump out of a moving vehicle. Worked for me when I was a kid.

And considering no one has reported a front failure, makes me wonder if I should have done that on purpose.
How did it go once you replaced the actuators? I'm considering the same instead of going to the dealer.
 

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This started happening to me a few months ago to my 09 Mazda 6. It would go off pretty well everyday for about 20 seconds, and then stop itself.
I replaced my battery, but no dice.
So then I replaced the batteries in both my FOBS, and it stopped for a bit.
Lately it continued...
Now for the past while I've had a burnt out headlight (which as you know are a pain to change) and the other one burnt out the other day. Finally took it in to get replaced, got all my low beam and high beams replaced.
And suddenly...(knock on wood) no alarm has gone off.

It almost seems that if anything isn't up to par electrical wise it triggers the alarm.

Anywho, just sharing what happened to me!
 

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Take you car to a regular joe mechanic. Have them run a diag as mine did, they will know what to do. He will tell you which door lock assy is bad. Replace that door lock assy. My local mechanic found this in about 20 minutes. Mazda service center told me that they had to have the car all day and on pickup stated,
" the alarm did not go off once that day so they have no idea what the problem is or could be." they never even used the diag tool to read the codes.
My mechanic saw 10 codes where the driver side rear door had alarm codes.
I now have no faith in mazda techs.
We replaced the door lock assy and all is well
i am so lucky to have s&b auto in newark, de as my mechanics
thanks s&b
i just took the assy apart and it is easy to see that there are scars where the contacts meet. It appears to be aluminum and poorly constructed. This was a rear door, i can only guess the condition of the drivers door lock assy. Prolly should expect that to fail soon. This is nothing more that poor construction on mazda's part. And yes it is all caps, cause i am hollering. Lol
 

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To ACR, sorry you don't trust the techs at your dealership. I took my 2010 Mazda 6S GT in with this issue, and they replaced the driver side rear door actuator - no issues since then. No charge either.
 

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Recently had my car in and they performed some recall work.

One of these was Mazda Recall# 7013l (NHTSA# 13V425000)

Code:
Mazda6 Door Latch Mounting Screws. The 
door latch mounting screws may become 
loose. If all three door latch mounting 
screws become loose and fall out, the door 
latch mechanism will not engage when the 
door is closed, and the door ajar warning 
light will illuminate.
Code:
The dealer will remove the door latch 
mounting screws on all doors, 
replace any missing screws, apply a 
thread locking adhesive, and re-
tighten the screws, free of charge.
The tech said that my rear door handles had loose screws and the passenger front handle was missing two of three screws. They replaced the screws and use loctite to secure them. No alarms yet.
 

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Good info, going to check if my rear sensors trip by cracking the window and pulling on them while the doors are closed. Already had the screw recall done awhile back and that didn't fix it.

Had same issue on my 09 Mazda 6 s over a year ago. Seemed like it would trigger on really hot days (Texas). I replaced key fob battery and car battery checked good. Got tired of it and took out the horn fuse.
 

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Couldn't get it to trip.
Took it to the dealer and it was the same drivers rear as most on here. Replaced it myself using tutorial on here. Thanks by the way!
Took cover off old one and the plastic had a worn groove. They need a recall if more cars are affected.
$200 total. 120 for them to push some buttons on their diagnostic PC and 80 for the part.
 

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dealer wants 180 for the 5 minute procedure to read the last alarm codes!

I can replace both actuators myself for 120....so that sounds like a good start.

Can anyone explain why a door lock actuator would cause this? for those who had bad ones, was there any other symptoms with the door lock actuators like them not locking or unlocking the door?

Thanks!
 

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09 Mazda 6 alarm going off - ANNOYING!!

What the hell is up with the Mazda 6 car alarm going off!!?? Does Mazda have a recall on this issue yet? It is annoying as hell and obviously a factory defect. I too leave the fregin car sitting idle for a little over 2 days at a time and it goes off for no apparent reason. Mazda needs to issue a recall for this and satisfy vehicle requirements that do not meet customer standards. I'm calling corporate headquarters since the local dealerships will never address issues without wanting some kind of payment for it. Anyone got some real quick solutions to this trash?? -Top >:)
 

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+1 battery. In the time I worked at the dealership, saw 8 of these things come in with this complaint, after about 2 weeks with the first one, we realized that the battery was @ 11.99 volts (should be 12.0-12.1) which technically is a good battery, and that it was putting out like 22 cca less than it needed to. Moral of the story, out of the 8, 7 of them were batteries that were just a touch weaker than the factory battery, and 1 was the module behind the glovebox. My recommendation, spend 140 dollars, buy a duralast gold battery from autozone and install it. It's so far above the recommended cca that you'll never have the issue again. We actually stopped installing mazda batteries in the m6 and started installing the duralast golds because they were the only battery with significantly more juice than necessary and it eliminated the problem.
Hello,

When assessing these cars at the dealership, did you read codes? In April they said "left rear door", and they replaced the door lock. Now the codes point the finger at the bonnet switch.

So, when the issue was the battery, were you getting battery codes on the reader?

Thanks,
Kostas
 

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This just started happening on my 09 Mazda 6 this week. Two weeks before, the satellite radio kept resetting itself, but that cleared up. I will have the dealer hook it up and check out what is triggering the alarm. I've owned the car for 6 years and have had zero non-maintenance repairs. Even if it costs $500, it's still less than car payments.
 

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With these things one can never be sure, as there is no reliable way to trigger it. Changing the car battery did not fix it. Changing the (obviously dying) battery on the keyfob may have done the trick.

Fingers crossed...
 
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