[Oozle1885]

Do you have the part number?

think it must be line X

 

[inusleroux]

Do you have the part number?

I’ve just had a quote from my main Mazda dealer for a new vacuum pump …. Number I have is MSHY518W00A then in next column 380201. Hope this helps

 

[Mitko]

Hi people,
I had the same problem for more than 3 months on my Mazda 6 2.2D 175hp (2016) 210k on the clock. In the beginning, the warning appeared to stay for some days and disappear, but in the last month it did not disappear and the engine started to rattle. I checked everything on the internet and on the forums. The owner's manual says that might be possible problems with the following:

• A malfunction in the battery management system.
• A malfunction in the brake switch.
• (SKYACTIV-D 2.2)
  • A malfunction in the engine's hydraulic control.
  • A malfunction in the engine's timing chain.
  • A malfunction in the blow-by heater.
  • A malfunction in the oil level sensor.

For my annual oil, filter and brake pads change I asked my mechanic to check the vacuum pump and make full diagnostics on the car. It turns out that I have two errors P1336 and U0442.
P1336 is for a faulty crankshaft position sensor and U0442 is something related to the electronics. Which led us to a problem crankshaft position sensor or stretched timing chain. But since there was rattling in the engine I asked to check the timing chain as well. The problem was in the water pump and chain tensioner were faulty.
Now two weeks later everything seems to be normal and no more vehicle system malfunction warning light

Hope this helps,
Cheers

 

[Flyinglovebirds]

Nothing error code now. at first SCBS sensor fault message was - I cleaned the windscreen, reset the tyre press.

 

[Chris T 2016 2.2]

My 2016 M6 2.2D was showing the VSM warning so I took it to my local dealer, they advised it has a blown head gasket due to fuel leaking from seal causing the oil pickup strainer to block with carbon deposits preventing oil flow to the head. in addition the vacuum pump is also showing faulty which they again assume is from a carbon build up. I have been quoted £11300 for a new engine and vacuum pump

in 2018 there was a number of recalls for the M6 one for the security of the injectors as they let fuel into the oil which can cause the carbon build up recall number R/2018/289 there is also a recall for the vacuum pump premature wear recall R/2018/236. Mazda have not recognised these as the cause of my faults and says I should pay for a new engine which is almost double the value of the car

 

[Chris T 2016 2.2]

My 2016 M6 2.2D was showing the VSM warning so I took it to my local dealer, they advised it has a blown head gasket due to fuel leaking from seal causing the oil pickup strainer to block with carbon deposits preventing oil flow to the head. in addition the vacuum pump is also showing faulty which they again assume is from a carbon build up. I have been quoted £11300 for a new engine and vacuum pump

in 2018 there was a number of recalls for the M6 one for the security of the injectors as they let fuel into the oil which can cause the carbon build up recall number R/2018/289 there is also a recall for the vacuum pump premature wear recall R/2018/236. Mazda have not recognised these as the cause of my faults and says I should pay for a new engine which is almost double the value of the car

After looking at the previous recalls it looks like they were for cars between 26/01/2012 to 21/01/2016 so cut off a few months before my car was manufactured, but obviously not resolved the issues. I wonder how many other Mazda suffer from this. My local garage mentioned they have three cars in at the moment with the same issue.

 

[Benedict]

The oil filter you are talking about is the suction filter in the sump, which is there to protect the oil pump, the canister oil filter is on the pressure side of the oil pump and is much finer and is there to protect your bearings. Engines always have this type of set regardless of fuel or size.
So, why is the suction strainer blocking up?
1. Infrequent oil changes
2. Products of combustion finding their way into the sump due to blowing injectors. A known problem which was fixed in 2014 by a revised injector sealing washer and a specific method of tightening them down. Failure to do both will cause this problem and result in wiped bearingsdue to a shortage of oil.
These engines run at two oil pressures depending on conditions.
Steady load/speed - about 25-30 psig
Acceleration - about 50-60 psig
Once up to speed the oil pressure drops back. This saves energy.
A sealing washers, gaskets, oil seals, nyloc nuts, split pins should never be used twice, but they are because mechanics aren't trained correctly these days, or they take short cuts.

A vacuum pump failure( plus other indications) was often a precursor to worn camshafts due to the followers being incorrectly heat treated.
This resulted in steel swarf being deposited all over the engine and into the sump. Ideally the engine should be stripped down completely, all components washed and inspected, replaced if worn by the swarf. But no they are not, just a couple of oil changes with the addition of flushing oil, which is akin to diesel oil. There is no guarentee that all small particles of steel have been removed and could cause problems later.

 

[Benedict]

My 2016 M6 2.2D was showing the VSM warning so I took it to my local dealer, they advised it has a blown head gasket due to fuel leaking from seal causing the oil pickup strainer to block with carbon deposits preventing oil flow to the head. in addition the vacuum pump is also showing faulty which they again assume is from a carbon build up. I have been quoted £11300 for a new engine and vacuum pump

in 2018 there was a number of recalls for the M6 one for the security of the injectors as they let fuel into the oil which can cause the carbon build up recall number R/2018/289 there is also a recall for the vacuum pump premature wear recall R/2018/236. Mazda have not recognised these as the cause of my faults and says I should pay for a new engine which is almost double the value of the car

A blown head gasket due to a leaking injector, they are taking the micheal. A blown head gasket will result in overheating, milky oil, rising oil level, dropping water level, pressuring of coolant header tank, excessive bubbling in the tank when engine is running.
Leaking injectors - see previous post.
Never deal with the flunky at the reception desk always the Service Manager.
Looks like than dealership is trying to make up lost profits post Covid.
These flunkies are often junior salesmen or failed mechanics or even people off the street that can talk the talk but don't have a clue.
Unless the workshop does a pressure test for a blown CHG or the other markers are obvious then the CHG doesn't need touching.
If you use the car daily for work, it is worth checking weekly things like fluid levels and quality, tyre pressures, this way you can nip it in the bud any problem. One week check the engine cold, the following hot when you arrive home or after you fill up with fuel while its level and hot.
Changes in colour, texture between two fingers and smell of oil will warn you of problems. Oil level is best checked cold on level ground.
If you have a diesel look out for rising level, if you have a late model look out for rapidly dropping level, this is a sign of oil loss through the cheap valve guide oil seals they fitted recently. Have them changed before you go out of warranty, don't take NO for an answer as they will only get worse.
If you have opposition write to VOSA explaining the situation as the oil is being burnt so must be an emission problem and its a design/ manufacturing fault they know about.

 

[bcsuares@gmail.com]

I have exactly the same issue, Vehicle System Mailfunction message appeared but reader does not give any error. Does anyone have any idea where to look for a fault or how to clear this message. Help would be much appreciated.

My 2015 GJ Atenza Wagon 2.2 D had a similar problem yesterday. Drove with the warning on for 100 kms . Started the engine this morning and the warning was still on.
Stopped the engine disconnected the battery (-ve) terminal for about 5 mins and then reconnected the battery.
Started her up and the, warning no longer came up have just driven around 175 kms all seems good. No warnings so far fingers crossed. !!!

 

[Gadaidis]

i have the same warning with my 7/2015 facelift Mazda 6 combi, after 3 different garages noone can find what exactly is happening, i have some engine power loss with 5th and 6th gear doesn't want to go faster than 130 km/h

sorry for my English

 

[Benedict]

Gadaidis, what is the code behind the warning?
130 km/h seems fast enough in my book, that's 80mph which in most countries is over the speed limit.
If you own a Mazda a good investment is Forscan software and a OBD2 dongle. This will tell you the code, you can look at pressures, temps and flow rates etc in various systems, check desired against actual readings in some cases.
Check your MAP sensor for carbon and MAF sensor to see if its working (google how to test it). Carry out an Injector Learn , change the fuel filter if its overdue. Though not related check your fan belt for cracking/perishing.
Check your air filter, they are good for 24k miles, but worth vacuuming a couple of time a year.

 

[seanin4711]

Hi,

I went to a local independant Mazda specialist as the error persisted and the oil pressure light came on and limited power. I was told that it is a common fault on these engines.
Basically it is caused by a filter part on the oil pump (not the main oil filter), this gets clogged with oil sludge and soot over time and blocks oil from passing through into the engine which then confuses the system and can cause it to detect low oil pressure and limit power to protect. Obviously if this stops oil circulating in the engine altogether this will cause a lot of damage so best take it to a garage. The part was £37 direct from Mazda and cost £200 to fit/fix including diagnosis with local specialist (Freelance Honda/Mazda - Chatham).
It’s a plastic part with a filter/gauze inside Which needs replacing but it’s a pig to get to so needs other parts removing and I think an oil drain. Mine is working fine and no errors now, fingers crossed it’s fixed. 65000 on the clock FYI.
One more thing (sorry to ramble) but the reason mine only started to occur straight after Mazda service was because new oil is thicker, old worn/thin oil made it through filter but thicker new oil couldn’t and system started to guess at the problem and throw up error messages.
Hope this helps, it may be the same fault.

Also known as the Oil pump pickup, possibly?

 

[Benedict]

Technically the oil pump suction filter, which is there to protect the oil pump, which then delivers the oil to the discharge filter, the one you change at a service, which protects the engine. At some point the oil passes through the oil cooler which is cooled by the water of the engine coolant, as opposed to an air cooled oil cooler of earlier models and manufacturers.
This allows quicker warm up of the oil.


When the blue light goes out on the dash it means the coolant is up to temperature, but not necessary the engine as a whole as the oil takes longer to reach optimum temperature. When they are both 70-80° C then the engine is up to temperature.

This also means just because the blue light is extinguished you can give it the beans, but niether does it require idling the engine to warm it up, as you are doing more harm than good. Never mind if the heater is not blowing hot, (wear suitable clothing for the weather).

Easy acceleration without overloading the engine in too higher gear and proceeding steadily until both oil and coolant are up to temperature.
Garaging the car in all weathers is beneficial to the car in several instances, particularly on cold and frosty mornings.

Start the engine, drive out of the garage, close the doors, put on the seat belt and you are ready to roll. If parked outside, clean the ice off the windows first, before starting the engine, better still cover the windscreen with an old shower curtain.


The oil not only lubricates, but cools the components it lubricates and also takes with it acids due to the combustion process, more so with these engines, with the regen cycle, hence it is important to use a C2/C3 rated oil which has a low ash content when burnt in the dpf but also a high TBN to counteract the acids and fuel blown down the bores during partial regens.

Removing the oil pump suction filter which I understand is plastic is not a simple job as a lot of other stuff needs to be removed to get access to the flange bolts, poor design, or designed like that on purpose to put off DIY enthusiasts and increase profits to the dealer network.

 

[Mazdachickadee]

2.2d m6 2016 Mine is doing the same thing. VSM, oil light /pressure- goes into limp mode, and EML. I only just bought it, had an oil change- no difference. Has anyone actually managed to fix this problem please, and if so- how?! Thanks

 

[Mazdachickadee]

Hi,

I went to a local independant Mazda specialist as the error persisted and the oil pressure light came on and limited power. I was told that it is a common fault on these engines.
Basically it is caused by a filter part on the oil pump (not the main oil filter), this gets clogged with oil sludge and soot over time and blocks oil from passing through into the engine which then confuses the system and can cause it to detect low oil pressure and limit power to protect. Obviously if this stops oil circulating in the engine altogether this will cause a lot of damage so best take it to a garage. The part was £37 direct from Mazda and cost £200 to fit/fix including diagnosis with local specialist (Freelance Honda/Mazda - Chatham).
It’s a plastic part with a filter/gauze inside Which needs replacing but it’s a pig to get to so needs other parts removing and I think an oil drain. Mine is working fine and no errors now, fingers crossed it’s fixed. 65000 on the clock FYI.
One more thing (sorry to ramble) but the reason mine only started to occur straight after Mazda service was because new oil is thicker, old worn/thin oil made it through filter but thicker new oil couldn’t and system started to guess at the problem and throw up error messages.
Hope this helps, it may be the same fault.

Hello, I realise this was a few years ago and you might have sold your car by now, but I’m just wondering if this actually fixed it, or if and what did?, or if you never got to the bottom of it? Thank you in advance

 

[Gadaidis]

Guys it is blowed gasket. I just make make a CO test and the blue liquid turned to yellow after one minute. Now mazda want 5000€ to build up the engine. I lost so much money with this car.