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Discussion Starter #21
Was thinking - unplug it from the car. The sensor has two leads, connect those meter leads to the sensor and set it too Ohms. Likely 0 - 500 or so and apply vacuum. Its looking for pressure drop to tell the ECM the EGR valves commanded action actually took place.

So does it still have both codes and how far have you driven it? What are you using for a code reader and what does said reader display for "Readiness"

The only thing I have up and running is a phone app Torque Pro.
Sorry, I'm still not sure what you mean with the 2 leads. You're not talking about the pins for the connector are you? If so there are 3 of them.

The last code was a P1487 only, I cleared it today and I'll be putting about 100 miles on the car today and tomorrow. Maybe I'll get lucky and the light won't come back on.

When I had emissions tested last week I had 3 unready conditions, and I'm only allowed to have 1 unready condition and no CEL in order to pass.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I PASSED MY EMISSIONS TEST TODAY!!!!

Hopefully, this means my long war the EGR system is over!

A THOUSAND thanks go to Final Impact! I really appreciate your help and I couldn't have troubleshot this thing without you. If you are ever in Atlanta, I owe you dinner.

For future reference, I think it was a blockage in the EGR gas tube that goes into the intake. The CEL did come back on after I fixed it, but it seems to be staying off now.

-Kurt
 

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Excellent news and you are a great example for others about how this can work! Stories like this are great to see! Glad this worked out and all is Well.

Not sure if you're a smart phone user but for $25 bucks you can grab some good data from the car when all is well and use it to help you later when things aren't being so nice! Fleebay Elm 327 ?? and Android App called Torque Pro can glean some good info.

Thanks for the kind Words Kurt!
Happy New Year and heres to 2014!
 

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Not to revive this old thread, but I have a 04 6s, (120,xxx miles, bone stock) and have been battling the 2227 and 1487 codes, and the surging rpms at idle for about 3,000 miles. I was reluctant to go throwing costly parts at it, so I started by cleaning the egr valve body and the "Intake probe" (which was caked full) codes came back about 100 miles later, so I started unplugging connectors related to that area and bench testing solenoids and mechanical parts (boost sensor, baro sensor, the 6 prong egr main harness) and have found that all three were building up corrosion and quite dirty, so I used some emery paper and cleaned the contacts on male and female side of each plug, and used some silicone connector grease on them to ensure stable connection, I'm at about 100 miles and the codes have yet to return! I'll keep my findings posted! Thanks for everyone's input on this matter that lead me to my discovery! :) (
 

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So, I've been using this thread to troubleshoot my P1487 code. I've removed the EGR and found it to be plugged at the tip. I cleaned it and put about 25 miles on it and the code came back. Without interference from me, the DTC will go away (idiot light on the dash), when I drive solid freeway at full speed for about 20 miles. However, once I start driving on the street again, it will reset again illuminating the light after about 5 or so miles. I'm thinking that it's likely the boost sensor solenoid at this point, but might still be the baro sensor. I've looked on Jim Ellis Mazda parts and can't find these two parts (the ones on the firewall). Does anyone have part numbers for these two parts (baro sensor and boost sensor solenoid)? Neither of them shows up on the Rock Auto page either. Thanks for your help.
 

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So, I've been using this thread to troubleshoot my P1487 code. I've removed the EGR and found it to be plugged at the tip. I cleaned it and put about 25 miles on it and the code came back. Without interference from me, the DTC will go away (idiot light on the dash), when I drive solid freeway at full speed for about 20 miles. However, once I start driving on the street again, it will reset again illuminating the light after about 5 or so miles. I'm thinking that it's likely the boost sensor solenoid at this point, but might still be the baro sensor. I've looked on Jim Ellis Mazda parts and can't find these two parts (the ones on the firewall). Does anyone have part numbers for these two parts (baro sensor and boost sensor solenoid)? Neither of them shows up on the Rock Auto page either. Thanks for your help.

Hey @waughoo, are they circled in the picture below?
 

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P1487 has NOTHING to do with the EGR valve. You are using generic codes definitions. For us, this code is for the variable intake air valve (not sure if this is exactly right) that is attached to teh side of the factory airbox. If you have a CAI, you need to remove this valve (has a green plug) from the airbox, plug in the sensor and just put it off to the side somewhere.
 

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So, I've been using this thread to troubleshoot my P1487 code. I've removed the EGR and found it to be plugged at the tip. I cleaned it and put about 25 miles on it and the code came back. Without interference from me, the DTC will go away (idiot light on the dash), when I drive solid freeway at full speed for about 20 miles. However, once I start driving on the street again, it will reset again illuminating the light after about 5 or so miles. I'm thinking that it's likely the boost sensor solenoid at this point, but might still be the baro sensor. I've looked on Jim Ellis Mazda parts and can't find these two parts (the ones on the firewall). Does anyone have part numbers for these two parts (baro sensor and boost sensor solenoid)? Neither of them shows up on the Rock Auto page either. Thanks for your help.

Hey @waughoo, are they circled in the picture below?
Yes... those are the ones @DrFeelGood
 

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P1487 has NOTHING to do with the EGR valve. You are using generic codes definitions. For us, this code is for the variable intake air valve (not sure if this is exactly right) that is attached to teh side of the factory airbox. If you have a CAI, you need to remove this valve (has a green plug) from the airbox, plug in the sensor and just put it off to the side somewhere.
@b1lk1 I am running full stock set up for the intake/air box. What is Mazda's code say for that?
 

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Look on the side of the airbox and make sure that sensor is plugged in and working. I had a P1487 code on my car as it came with a CAI and they did not include that sensor. WHen I added just the sensor it eliminated that code.
 

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P1487 has NOTHING to do with the EGR valve. You are using generic codes definitions. For us, this code is for the variable intake air valve (not sure if this is exactly right) that is attached to teh side of the factory airbox. If you have a CAI, you need to remove this valve (has a green plug) from the airbox, plug in the sensor and just put it off to the side somewhere.
@waughoo
P1487 is EGR Boost Sensor Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction


@b1lk1 The VAD (Variable Air Duct) is code P1410. I have had that code and also had the solenoid unplugged. Later it failed and I pluged the vacuum line with a screw and eliminated it that way.
 

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@b1lk1 I'll check into it. I haven't touched the air box at all so I suspect that if this is the issue, the sensor had failed. Do you know how to test the sensor/motor?

The solenoid opens and closes the "extra air flapper" when you are open throttle. The green plug in the upp right of the picture is difficult to click into place and will give a P1410 MIL when unplugged or faulty.
My diaphragm was immobile and could not be opened by have or with the solenoid so I disconnected the terminal end of the vacuum line and put a bolt into it to plug.
I then removed the four screws to allow removal of the air flap door to permit maximum air to flow into the intake at all times. It did make my intake noise noticeably louder, especially on WOT, (I kinda like it)






It is also possible to disable the system by turning the VAD check valve pictured below (white/green) but I was unable to dislodge mine without destroying the hose and I had no spare handy.
 

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Huh, I was wondering what that green/white thing was, but not enough to bother looking it up anywhere. Thanks for saving me the time! ;)
 

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Thanks Doc. I bench tested the solenoid valve and it worked correctly out of the car. I was a bit too lazy to perform the factory test for the baro sensor, so I just decided to buy one. The one you have listed above is almost correct, but I was able to find the right one after a bit of searching with the part number on the one in the car. I'll report back after I've tried it out.
 

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So in my obsession with a solution to this issue, I came across this post in another forum. It appears to be a non vehicle specific repair forum meant to help troubleshoot error codes and scan data from the OBD scanner. They are for the exact same two codes as this thread. The interesting thing I spotted was that the guy bench tested the solenoid and it did everything it was supposed to do, but it was still throwing the code. Eventually, he replaced the solenoid with a new one and the code cleared. It makes me curious if there's a resistance value in the solenoid that the computer wants to see. Regardless, I plan to change both the solenoid and the baro sensor (parts ordered) and will replace them when the new ones arrive. I'll report back.


https://www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here/3560-mazda-6-p1487-and-p2227.html
 

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Okay... I finally decided to just replace the barometric pressure sensor and the EGR boost sensor solenoid. These are the two "gizmos" on the firewall above the EGR valve at the intake (see pictures). The part numbers I could find off the parts I removed are as follows...


Baro sensor: KL47, E1T10372, A 4526
EGR Boost sensor solenoid: K5T49096, BP4Y, 4427


Both of these parts are made by Mitsubishi. Using one of the two links provided by @DrFeelGood above, I was able to buy the EGR boost sensor solenoid. The one the Doc listed for the baro sensor is actually a MAP sensor that goes in the air intake and is not the correct part for this application. It is likely the same gizmo inside the plastic, but the wrong orifice for the baro sensor needed for the EGR system. I found my Baro sensor on EBAY listed as an OEM part. I had thought I was getting another Mitsubishi part as that's what they had pictured, but it turned out to be manufactured by FAE. I was a little disappointed with that fact, but I will live with it as it is still a new part rather than used.


Wide angle shot of the parts on the fire wall for situational awareness




Close up shot with the Baro on the left and the Boost sensor solenoid on the right




After replacing these two parts and then driving to the parts store to have them clear the codes (I still don't have a code reader), I have now driven 100 miles and the check engine light has stayed off. The interesting thing is that the boost sensor solenoid checked out fine out of the car. It held vacuum as explained earlier in this thread and changed correctly when 12v was applied to the contacts. I didn't test the Baro sensor, as I was just a bit tired of the problem. So I'll never really know what was wrong, but it appears that the issue was with these two sensors on the firewall.


As I stated in an earlier post here, I did see some improvement (check engine light stayed off for a while) with cleaning the EGR probe tube, that did not keep the light off. I feel like it did need to be cleaned though, so I'd likely suggest that as part of this repair that the EGR tube should be cleaned and then those two sensors replaced on the fire wall. I'll be going in tomorrow to get my emissions test as I need to renew my tabs. I'll report back if it stayed off long enough to get to the testing station and if I indeed passed. I'm feeling pretty confident now that I've logged 100 miles though.
 

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I too experienced P1487, P2110, and eventually P2227 coupled with a no start condition in colder weather (below 40*F). I went rounds with the dealership for a while and the problem persisted for almost a year an a half. No driveability problems in the summer months, but when it was below 40*F, the car refused to start. It would crank, but it wouldnt start. And if it did start, it would die.

So here is a condensed version of everything that I did and my eventual solution:

-Did some basic research and found info here and there about it being the PCM failing somehow. So I went to the dealership, and they basically told me "no way, no how." Their lead Mazda Master Tech said it was basically impossible. In all of his years, he had never seen that. So I made an appointment for them to look into it.

-Took it to the dealership who said it was the EGR valve, so they replaced that. Next day it didnt start, so I took it back after doing my own basic troubleshooting in the snow and found the throttle body wasnt opening with the key on to let air into the engine. So they said "sounds like the the throttle body, so we can replace that." At this point, I'm about $1000 into the fix. After the throttle body didnt fix it, I was pissed beyond belief. Then they tried to blame my intake - which is complete and total BS. So I just wrote off the dealership and said screw it, I'll figure this out on my own.

-So this fall/winter, I dug into it. Retraced all of my steps. I replaced the baro sensor, EGR solenoid, and intake vacuum solenoid. Nothing fixed it. I replaced the engine coolant sensor on the side of the engine and did a full coolant flush and replacement. No fix. Electrically tested the crank and cam sensors - they're fine.

-Hail mary: I test for spark (because i assumed the dealership did this) and I dont have spark! Finally, something! So I pull the plugs and they are fine, but the coils arent getting anything during crank. Pull the PCM diagram and that is what sends the signal to the ignition coils. So on a whim I put a space heater in the car and BAM! car fires right up. So I went for a month doing that and I said it has to be the PCM.

-Ordered a refurbed PCM from flagship one inc. for less than $200 with a lifetime warranty. Tried to program the immobilizer and keys myself with a Solus Edge, but Mazda programming HAS to be done at the dealer by a Master Tech. So I go to the dealership and I said "remember me?" and of course they did. So I asked them to just program my keys to the PCM. They did for $90.

-The Best Part: ITS FIXED! I havent had issues with starting besides a day that it was -9*F and my battery died. Other than that, it feels like the car has never run better.

-The problem must have been a failing solder joint or trace on the board that wouldnt make full contact in the cold, but when warmed up it would make contact and fire.
 
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