[DrFeelGood]

So, I've been using this thread to troubleshoot my P1487 code. I've removed the EGR and found it to be plugged at the tip. I cleaned it and put about 25 miles on it and the code came back. Without interference from me, the DTC will go away (idiot light on the dash), when I drive solid freeway at full speed for about 20 miles. However, once I start driving on the street again, it will reset again illuminating the light after about 5 or so miles. I'm thinking that it's likely the boost sensor solenoid at this point, but might still be the baro sensor. I've looked on Jim Ellis Mazda parts and can't find these two parts (the ones on the firewall). Does anyone have part numbers for these two parts (baro sensor and boost sensor solenoid)? Neither of them shows up on the Rock Auto page either. Thanks for your help.

Hey @waughoo, are they circled in the picture below?

 

[DrFeelGood]

P1487 has NOTHING to do with the EGR valve. You are using generic codes definitions. For us, this code is for the variable intake air valve (not sure if this is exactly right) that is attached to teh side of the factory airbox. If you have a CAI, you need to remove this valve (has a green plug) from the airbox, plug in the sensor and just put it off to the side somewhere.

@waughoo
P1487 is EGR Boost Sensor Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction


@b1lk1 The VAD (Variable Air Duct) is code P1410. I have had that code and also had the solenoid unplugged. Later it failed and I pluged the vacuum line with a screw and eliminated it that way.

 

[DrFeelGood]

@b1lk1 I'll check into it. I haven't touched the air box at all so I suspect that if this is the issue, the sensor had failed. Do you know how to test the sensor/motor?

The solenoid opens and closes the "extra air flapper" when you are open throttle. The green plug in the upp right of the picture is difficult to click into place and will give a P1410 MIL when unplugged or faulty.
My diaphragm was immobile and could not be opened by have or with the solenoid so I disconnected the terminal end of the vacuum line and put a bolt into it to plug.
I then removed the four screws to allow removal of the air flap door to permit maximum air to flow into the intake at all times. It did make my intake noise noticeably louder, especially on WOT, (I kinda like it)

It is also possible to disable the system by turning the VAD check valve pictured below (white/green) but I was unable to dislodge mine without destroying the hose and I had no spare handy.

 

[DrFeelGood]

@DrFeelGood thanks for the info. Any chance you found part numbers for the boost sensor solenoid and the baro sensor?

I think these are the two sensors you are looking for. Cross check to verify. They may be salvage yard grabs.



EDIT:
Check this link for updated stock numbers.


Baro sensor: KL47, E1T10372, A 4526
EGR Boost sensor solenoid: K5T49096, BP4Y, 4427