Hi I'm new to the club and wondered if anybody had same problem, I have a 2016 Sport nav tourer with 91k on the clock, a couple of weeks ago I got three messages up on dash scbs forward malfunction, traction control and I stop was flashing, the car went into limp mode but when I turned engine off it all reset and ran ok, this happened a few more times so I took it to Mazda main dealers and they said might be dpf clogged up, so they unclogged it and said they were 99% sure this would fix it but it hasn't, the car is still doing it, it has lack of power, the auto box seems out of sync and if I give it some stick on the motor way it comes up with same messages again and goes into limp mode, I'm taking it back in next week and they're keeping it until it's fixed ( I hope), anyone had similar problems.
Scbs forward malfunction
6 reading
Appy Martin
101 - 109 of 109 Posts
Copper washers were replaced with steel ones (genuine Mazda part)
No, Tinned Copper.
Steel washers would be too hard and you would never get a seal.
On some large diesel engines, they use ground face to face sealing , no washers, but then the injector tube is steel also and the head is steel not alloy.
Replace transmission solenoid
Hi on mine where do I find this and do I have 1 being a munal? Thanks for input I take it that sorted your issues out? Thanks again
Hi, not much new to add, just that my 2015 2.2D mazda6 has the SCBS P0101 error on long drives when taking my foot of the accelerator and whilst in gear letting it run out a bit (as well as on descends without using the accelerator and keeping it in gear). It doesn't really occur when driving in NL, everything is flat and relatively close by 
. As long has noone reports a sure-fire end-all fix, I've decided to quit spending money on it and just live with the issue... (it does go away for a while when stopping and starting the engine).
Vacuum pump, exhaust pressure sensor, MAF sensor were all upgraded/replaced.
Decarb was also done after getting stranded with low oil pressure last year...
. As long has noone reports a sure-fire end-all fix, I've decided to quit spending money on it and just live with the issue... (it does go away for a while when stopping and starting the engine).Vacuum pump, exhaust pressure sensor, MAF sensor were all upgraded/replaced.
Decarb was also done after getting stranded with low oil pressure last year...
On one forum, somebody talked of cleaning the throttle body, this is a butterfly like on a petrol they sometimes stick with carbon. So if you are on overun then the butterfly should be closed, if not then code due to carbon. So more air is entering the engine than required.
I had the dreaded P243 DPF code come up when driving the Hardnott Pass in the Lake District, it was all 1st & 2nd gear work. Cleared it and it was fine, in fact the mpg went up to 64mpg whilst on the A66 a little later after a top up of fuel, a drop of Shell special mix.
I had the dreaded P243 DPF code come up when driving the Hardnott Pass in the Lake District, it was all 1st & 2nd gear work. Cleared it and it was fine, in fact the mpg went up to 64mpg whilst on the A66 a little later after a top up of fuel, a drop of Shell special mix.
So this is an update to my posts of 27 Jan 25 and 4 Dec 24 re. persistent DPF, SCBS and traction control warning lights.
I took the car to a DPF cleaning specialist who ran screening checks, confirmed that the DPF was blocked but found no other issues. They cleaned it, ran it for 40 miles, found no contra-indicators and so advised it could be collected.
My worst fear manifested when the feared DPF light re-appeared as the car headed back up the motorway BUT at least it was now driving like the car I love.
I phoned up for support and the company could not have been more helpful.
The car was returned to them and we agreed that they would work on investigating the mysterious DPF issue around their other pre-booked jobs. Whilst it deprived me of the use of my car, I was over the moon that I was working with a company that was prepared to spend the time to solve the problem given that, out of desperation and a rapidly emptying wallet, I was almost prepared to scrap the car before I took it to them.
A specialist mechanic spent c9 hours checking all sorts including temperature sensors, manifolds etc etc without solving the problem. Credit to them however because I was kept informed throughout the process by Mark and Nadia which is a pleasant rarity.
He then noticed that Stop-Start was not working. Despite no battery warning messages and the car always starting first time, he changed the battery. Since then, no warning messages of any kind!!
I then did a search on the internet to see whether a sub-optimal battery could be the cause of failed DPF regeneration. According to Gemini it can. Who new? This was also surprising because it had never come up in my countless searches for causes of DPF/SCBS/Traction control issues.
Amazingly, it seems that despite the sensors, gadgets and processing power of the Mazda CPU the car has not been configured to generate an error code flagging that the battery is too weak to support regeneration.
The car has now done a few hundred miles with no issues. Touch wood it stays that way.
Take-aways are:
1) Check your battery before spending a fortune on all of the other suggested fixes
2) Cleaning your dpf makes a noticeable positive difference to the car
3) UK DPF (Fylde Autocare Ltd) are to commended for DPF cleaning, resolution of persistent issues and providing great support
I took the car to a DPF cleaning specialist who ran screening checks, confirmed that the DPF was blocked but found no other issues. They cleaned it, ran it for 40 miles, found no contra-indicators and so advised it could be collected.
My worst fear manifested when the feared DPF light re-appeared as the car headed back up the motorway BUT at least it was now driving like the car I love.
I phoned up for support and the company could not have been more helpful.
The car was returned to them and we agreed that they would work on investigating the mysterious DPF issue around their other pre-booked jobs. Whilst it deprived me of the use of my car, I was over the moon that I was working with a company that was prepared to spend the time to solve the problem given that, out of desperation and a rapidly emptying wallet, I was almost prepared to scrap the car before I took it to them.
A specialist mechanic spent c9 hours checking all sorts including temperature sensors, manifolds etc etc without solving the problem. Credit to them however because I was kept informed throughout the process by Mark and Nadia which is a pleasant rarity.
He then noticed that Stop-Start was not working. Despite no battery warning messages and the car always starting first time, he changed the battery. Since then, no warning messages of any kind!!
I then did a search on the internet to see whether a sub-optimal battery could be the cause of failed DPF regeneration. According to Gemini it can. Who new? This was also surprising because it had never come up in my countless searches for causes of DPF/SCBS/Traction control issues.
Amazingly, it seems that despite the sensors, gadgets and processing power of the Mazda CPU the car has not been configured to generate an error code flagging that the battery is too weak to support regeneration.
The car has now done a few hundred miles with no issues. Touch wood it stays that way.
Take-aways are:
1) Check your battery before spending a fortune on all of the other suggested fixes
2) Cleaning your dpf makes a noticeable positive difference to the car
3) UK DPF (Fylde Autocare Ltd) are to commended for DPF cleaning, resolution of persistent issues and providing great support
A car battery should last about 8/9 years.
DPF's are cleaned by the car itself and shouldn't need to be removed.
The problem is often upstream of the DPF or the type of driving your doing, ie a lot of slow running and gear work. The code was P243C, which translates to , too many regens in a certain number of miles.
It can also mean your injectors are becoming worn causing frequent regens due to incomplete combustion causing smoky exhaust.
This last week I drove the car 230 miles to the Lake District, sat on 70 mph more or less all the way, parked it and used local buses, then on a rainy day decided to drive from Ambleside to the west coast via the Hardknot Pass, most of this was 1st & 2nd gear either going up or down steap 1:4 inclines and hairpins. After running on the flat afterwards the DPF maintenance light came up. As I was at just under 3/4 of the tank and saw a Shell Station , I topped up with Shell Ultra about 26 litres. Cleared the DPF Code and zeroing the dash mpg and set off.
The mpg went up to 63 sat on 70mph on the A66 a very smooth and straight road, complete opposite to Hardknot pass.
If your mileage is in the region of 50-100 k then you may be due for new injectors (a fault of Mazda procurement and design as these are bought in items from Denso).
Mine went at 49k and I had trouble at achieving 35 mpg on a long hot run. I am on 73K now and achieved a healthy 52 mpg on my long run up and mid 40's following another drive through a narrow hilly pass at the begining of my drive East and South on the A66 and A1M.
So don't panic if you see codes come up and don't be fooled by the term 'specialist', he obviously didn't diagnose it first time and got a cleaning and a battery out of you.
A low battery especially an old one can throw up various unrelated codes due to a low voltage to the sensor, which only works on about 3-5 volts.
During the Winter it is good practice to charge the battery with one of the new chargers over the weekend , they not only charge but refurb the cells of the battery, keep the battery on a trickle charge , but don't overcharge it and tend to give it a pulse charge occassionally and are ideal for stop start AMD batteries. Never buy a cut price battery, buy one from Mazda, then you know it right.
Exhaust sensor pipes should be checked to see they are clear and the MAP sensor removed and cleaned with a toothbrush and soapy water carefully before you start leaving your wallet open to 'rape and pillage' by 'specialists'.
DPF's are cleaned by the car itself and shouldn't need to be removed.
The problem is often upstream of the DPF or the type of driving your doing, ie a lot of slow running and gear work. The code was P243C, which translates to , too many regens in a certain number of miles.
It can also mean your injectors are becoming worn causing frequent regens due to incomplete combustion causing smoky exhaust.
This last week I drove the car 230 miles to the Lake District, sat on 70 mph more or less all the way, parked it and used local buses, then on a rainy day decided to drive from Ambleside to the west coast via the Hardknot Pass, most of this was 1st & 2nd gear either going up or down steap 1:4 inclines and hairpins. After running on the flat afterwards the DPF maintenance light came up. As I was at just under 3/4 of the tank and saw a Shell Station , I topped up with Shell Ultra about 26 litres. Cleared the DPF Code and zeroing the dash mpg and set off.
The mpg went up to 63 sat on 70mph on the A66 a very smooth and straight road, complete opposite to Hardknot pass.
If your mileage is in the region of 50-100 k then you may be due for new injectors (a fault of Mazda procurement and design as these are bought in items from Denso).
Mine went at 49k and I had trouble at achieving 35 mpg on a long hot run. I am on 73K now and achieved a healthy 52 mpg on my long run up and mid 40's following another drive through a narrow hilly pass at the begining of my drive East and South on the A66 and A1M.
So don't panic if you see codes come up and don't be fooled by the term 'specialist', he obviously didn't diagnose it first time and got a cleaning and a battery out of you.
A low battery especially an old one can throw up various unrelated codes due to a low voltage to the sensor, which only works on about 3-5 volts.
During the Winter it is good practice to charge the battery with one of the new chargers over the weekend , they not only charge but refurb the cells of the battery, keep the battery on a trickle charge , but don't overcharge it and tend to give it a pulse charge occassionally and are ideal for stop start AMD batteries. Never buy a cut price battery, buy one from Mazda, then you know it right.
Exhaust sensor pipes should be checked to see they are clear and the MAP sensor removed and cleaned with a toothbrush and soapy water carefully before you start leaving your wallet open to 'rape and pillage' by 'specialists'.
Have you checked the state of your MAP sensor, if heavily carboned, its possible your inlet manifold is also, plus the two EGR valves and other componentsin the intake system. We are talking close to £1k for that to be cleaned. Dash lit up like a christmas tree is a good indication, nothing to do with the SCBS but Mazda in their infinite wisdom throws that light in the mix along with a few others.
You need to be able to read your own codes using Forscan and the Obd reader they recommend, then you can google the codes and watch u-tube videos to see whats going on, rather than be hoodwinked by some of these people out there.
It is rarely a DPF fault, the engine itself will keep that clean.
You need to be able to read your own codes using Forscan and the Obd reader they recommend, then you can google the codes and watch u-tube videos to see whats going on, rather than be hoodwinked by some of these people out there.
It is rarely a DPF fault, the engine itself will keep that clean.
101 - 109 of 109 Posts
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