Mazda 6 Forums banner
21 - 40 of 171 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Ok, MAF and MAP sensors cleaned out and put back. The MAF looked OK but the MAP sensor was completely clogged up. It was really bad. I've cleaned it out as best I can. Took the car for a quick test drive and it's driving absolutely fine. No issues with lag or rough idling etc. I've cleared any pending error codes and will just have to wait and see if it throws anymore error codes. If it does, I'm going to swap out the EGR valve which I can do myself, but if it needs the vacuum pump replaced I might need a garage to do that as it looks a little more challenging. I'll post an update in the coming days on how things are going. Thanks a million @Jay at you've been a great help!

241384
 
That is totally clogged! You can’t see daylight.Effectively it cannot register manifold pressure changes when your pistons move.just looked to see what that cable is and sending you photos.From what I can tell the cable on my car runs to the alternator.I don’t know what’s happening as you must have a cable to your alternater.
 
I can send you a brilliant link for your engine where they do a 26 minute video cleaning the EGR system out of a CX5.It looks complicated if your not a mechanic and it won’t be cheap.How to Clean EGR System Removing Carbon MAZDA CX-5 2.2D 2014~ SH-VPTS FW6A-EL AWD Part 1.
 
Well pleased for you Viper and hopefully your sorted without using using a sledge hammer to crack a walnut.Just put the above words into google and the video comes up.Its a workshop in the Far East and they do a total strip down and remove the EGR cooler etc which you don’t have to do.However there is a 10 black bracket you need to to remove to get EGR off.😃
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
That is totally clogged! You can’t see daylight.Effectively it cannot register manifold pressure changes when your pistons move.just looked to see what that cable is and sending you photos.From what I can tell the cable on my car runs to the alternator.I don’t know what’s happening as you must have a cable to your alternater.
Yeah it was really bad. It took quite a bit of time to clean it. Your'e right, a needle worked great. I ised a toothbrush as well but it was well solid. There's no possible way that could have been functioning correctly, or at all! I probably could have done a better job of cleaning it, but at least the sensor part is clear. I took the car for another spin this morning and plugged in the ODB reader. No errors or pending errors at the moment. I won't know for sure for at least a few more days.

Regarding the supposed cut cable, my alternator seems to be connectod alright. I will need to check over it again. I'm sure if it was a major issue, something would be noticeable. The only issue I have with the car now is that there is a clear juderring/vibration feeling on the steering wheel at high speeds - over 65 mph usually. I thought maybe it was the wheel balance but not so. I've had this checked. I have absolutely no idea what is causing this, but it is very notiecable. I will worry about this issue when I get the EGR/vacuum faults resolved.

I can send you a brilliant link for your engine where they do a 26 minute video cleaning the EGR system out of a CX5.It looks complicated if your not a mechanic and it won’t be cheap.How to Clean EGR System Removing Carbon MAZDA CX-5 2.2D 2014~ SH-VPTS FW6A-EL AWD Part 1.
Wow, how in heck did you find that? That is really helpful. If the MAP/MAF sensor cleaning doesn't resolve, I will definitely look into this. I had the engine carbon cleaned as well using a hydrogen cleaner or something. I am hoping this will make a difference. I will definitely watch this. Very useful!

Well pleased for you Viper and hopefully your sorted without using using a sledge hammer to crack a walnut.Just put the above words into google and the video comes up.Its a workshop in the Far East and they do a total strip down and remove the EGR cooler etc which you don’t have to do.However there is a 10 black bracket you need to to remove to get EGR off.😃
Hahah I've felt like taking a sledge hammer to the engine a few times, believe me! Not because it has been unreliable or anything, but just because of the annoying error codes that multiple garage visits have been unable to resolve.

I have read the vacuum pump may be a Mazda recall.See how you get on.
Yes I read that too somewhere. I did an online check with some Mazda recall checker (sorry, can't rememeber where I found it) and it said no recalls were due for mine. I may as well call them just to double check that this is correct. The only other post I've come across about the P258B fault was where a mechanic mentioned he had replaced loads of vacuum pumps due to this fault. If the red warning triangle comes up again, I may have to consider swapping it out. It looks more challenging than replacing the EGR valve so I might take it to a garage for this if needed.


How are you getting on your with Mazda Jay? I hope yo've got to the bottom of your issues. Many thanks again! You've been a great help :)
 
We haven’t had time to collect from the garage as of yet but the mechanic says road test 45 mins showed no codes.We had 6 Mazdas in stock and sold 2 over the weekend.I read the recall but it was the Daily Mail Australia.Different countries have different engine software.Recently Mazda UK were recalling for shutter valve software (September 2019).
They do notify you by letter.Best of luck Viper if you have any issues I am interested so don’t hesitate to post 👍.
Juddering can be so many things but if it’s slight It can even be the road surface etc
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thanks Jay. I plugged the ODB tool and it did show a pending error again for the EGR code P0401, so it's probably still there. I guess it will need a proper clean out. No vacuum error code yet though. Either way, that MAP sensor definitely needed a good cleaning out. There's no way it could have been functioning like that!

I'll keep you updated.

P. S It's good to see a garage making a good effort to make sure their cars are running well. There's far too many who don't bother. (y)
 
Use Wynns EGR cleaner for diesel engines as the soot is different between petrol and diesel.I think a pending error will have to trip 3 times before it registers.Hopefully your vacuum doesn’t light up.We tested the car and the traction light came on even though it drove really well.Its going to Mazda dealer for their diagnostic checks.The first check is £70.After that your charged until they get a definitive cause.Waiting to see where we go with this one.Will update accordingly 😀.
It was all good for 100 miles.
 
Mazda have checked the car and say that the EGR cooler needs to be changed as they believe it is sooted up.They only replace the part as they cannot guarantee a cleaning process.Part at £550 plus labour comes to £900+ ouch!
We had the manifold and shutter valve previously done plus EGR cleaned by different garage.
What we have learned is if this works then Mazda got it right as their mechanic said it’s standard for his workshop.They use walnut shells to decarb the manifold but with the cooler they can’t tell if it’s effective and can’t guarantee the job as they can’t see the results.I accept that as good practise.
The garage who removed the manifold say they will clean the cooler chemically for free.They will get a new cooler weight and compare when cleaning.Plus try blowing into the cooler originally and see if it improves.Well we are grateful for their good will (15 year business relationship) so will give it a try and update.
Also apparently the traction light coming on is a red herring and just an indicator something is wrong before the EML and DPF comes on.THAT IS WEIRD.Carbon build can throw loads of fault codes up.Strangely we are enjoying this even after the money we have thrown at it.The Mazda team were great
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Use Wynns EGR cleaner for diesel engines as the soot is different between petrol and diesel.I think a pending error will have to trip 3 times before it registers.Hopefully your vacuum doesn’t light up.We tested the car and the traction light came on even though it drove really well.Its going to Mazda dealer for their diagnostic checks.The first check is £70.After that your charged until they get a definitive cause.Waiting to see where we go with this one.Will update accordingly 😀.
It was all good for 100 miles.
Same thing here. Both lights are now back on again but the car is driving perfectly fine. I might just swap out the EGR valve to see if it makes any difference as its only a 10 minute job, then I'll consider taking everything apart to give it a good clean.

Check the connecting pipes for soot when you do the work 👍
I also have a vacuump test kit which will check pipes for leaks etc but I've no idea how to use it lol. I guess I'll fijd something on Youtube which shows how to test propely. I'll keep you posted :)
 
The EGR cooler has been removed.The battery,battery base and air filter box removed.Some coolant also and apparently it’s quiet straight forward.The black bracket was in the way but plenty of space after removal. Its a straight forward removal.They have used two cans of egr and carburettor cleaner and soaked it overnight.
They used an air line to blow both sides of egr first and it was like a dirty exhaust.The end that you can see through was badly soothed and 25% blocked.Tomorrow they will half Empty and thoroughly shake and air line it again etc and look to see if air flow has increased.They have done it before and reckon it will work.
The EGR Cooler cleaning company in Pontefract use ultrasonics claiming 99.5% Carbon removal for £89+vat and 24hr turn around.We didn’t want to spend time parcelling etc so is our back up plan.
Terraclean Birmingham said they didn’t believe they could shift a blockage in the cooler but did say all sorts of codes come with a bad cooler and to look at the whole system as a whole regards EGR faults including DPF.Will send cleaning pictures tomorrow.
Now I physically saw the cooler (forgot to photo) and it was not a pretty sight.Now it was Mazda York who originally told us to clean the manifold but from the pictures he should me I recall they had took out the cooler as well Which is not needed for manifold removal.
They were familiar with this problem and have dealt with it many times before.However all EGR have this problem.More updates coming 👍
 
The EGR pipe was left on to create height and the cooler filled to where visible on the left hand side (inlet).Both holes were taped overnight to prevent evaporation.
Well lots of carbon was removed.When emptied air line used to blow the channels.Cooler is now fitted and we will test drive again 🤔
 
Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
The EGR pipe was left on to create height and the cooler filled to where visible on the left hand side (inlet).Both holes were taped overnight to prevent evaporation.
Well lots of carbon was removed.When emptied air line used to blow the channels.Cooler is now fitted and we will test drive again 🤔
That's really interesting how the cleaning process works. I live in Northern Ireland otherwise I would seriously consider getting it properly cleaned out from one of those places you mentioned. I could almost be sure that this is the cause of my EGR fault. Like I say, I am going to swap out the EGR valve purely because it is staightforward enough to do compared to taking the engine apart to clean it.

Regarding the vacuum pump code - P258B, I am beginning to think that the puimp is faulty. Today when going down a hill I decided to intermittently press the brake pedal. After a few presses, the brake pedal stiffened up and had little effect on the brakes. The car would still slow down but nowhere near as fast as it normally should.
 
Yes they have been an issue.You should be able to test it first,I’ll do a bit of research later.
Your engine has an EGR bypass valve as well connected by the long steel pipe to the EGR valve which also lowers emissions,you could clean that as well.It was something that Mazda asked if we had done.It is used when you start the engine and allows engine to reach optimal temperature faster.
“EGR bypass valve – Located on the intake inlet. The ECM uses this valve to allow exhaust gas into the engine without going through the EGR cooler (EGR cooler bypass). ... NOTE: The EGR bypass valve is cooled by engine coolant. ECM Control. The EGR valve and the EGR bypass valve are both electronically controlled by the ECM ...“
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I swapped out the EGR valve today and took the car for a test drive. It was driving absolutely fine as ever but unfortunately the P0401 error code popped up again. I didn't think it was the EGR valve anyway but at least we now know for sure that it isn't. I think the best thing to do now is as you suggested. A proper clean of the whole EGR system. There was plenty of carbom laying in the EGR valve and the connecting ports etc. I'm really not sure what else it could be.

I had a look at the vacuum pump and it looks a little more complicated than I'm comfortable with. I'll ask a local mechanic to do it as he'll do a far better job than I would. I'll ask him about the best way to go about doing a proper EGR system clean too.
 
21 - 40 of 171 Posts