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EGR Valve Cleaning on 2014 Sport Nav 2.2D

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114K views 170 replies 17 participants last post by  Benedict  
#1 ·
Hi folks,

I recently acquired this Mazda 6 2.2D and it seems the EGR valve probably needs a good cleaning. I bought some EGR cleaner and I've removed the exhaust which I believe goes from the EGR valve to the intake manifold. It actually wasn't bad at all. I didn't dismantle anything else because I wasn't sure what to remove next. Is there a guide somewhere on how to properly remove the EGR valve and give it a good cleaning? I couldn;t find one on YouTube. Only a few for the old Mazda 6 I think, but it's a different engine. The EML code it is throwing up is P0401. Thanks all!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Not sure how common this is. I left mine in to a local garage and they tested the EGR valve. It seemed good, so the cleaned it out but that didn't sort the problem. I've had the car about a month now and the light is still on, but I don't experience any symptoms whatsoever. The car drives great and isn't right at idle etc. I'm going to clean out the throttle body to see if that helps. Not sure where to go after that.

I'm guessing yours isn't the EGR valve either, which is why it's probably taking so long for the garage to work out where the problem is. Let me know when you get yours sorted if you don't mind. We could have a similar issue. Hope you get it sorted soon!
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks for that. Yes it would be interesting to see the outcome of this. For the record, mine seems to be intermittent now. It will come on/off every few days or so. A faulty sensor maybe? I just got a replacement EGR valve and will maybe swap it out to see if it makes any difference.

In addition to this, another fault has appeared - P258B (vacuum pump). I've left it in to 3 or 4 garages so far and no one has been able to diagnose it. It's so frustrating. I've also bought a replacement vacuum pump to swap out. A side from all this, the car is driving fine. I've had tne engine carbon cleaned as well. If the warning lights didn't come on, no one would know any different.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thank you Jay. That is incredibly helpful. Yes it is the brake vacuum pump. I already have a few cans of the carb cleaner. I'll hopefully get a chance later today to try it.

My mechanic skills are somewhat lacking though! Finding it is step 1 :). I'll let you know how it goes. Do you think this is causing the P0401 EGR fault as well or should I just swap out the EGR valve? I can just about manage that. Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thanks again Jay! I will most certainly do that. Yes, I have a Bluetooth ODB reader and also Forscan with an ODB cable Hi Lo switch. There's an option in Forscan to re-initialise the EGR valve so I would assume that needs done if I swap out the EGR valve. One thing I just thought of. Quite often when i switch the engine on, it will start at higher revs (around 1,000-1,200) before settling down at normal idle. I wonder is the dirty MAP sensor causing this as well.

Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Any idea where the MAP sensor is located on a 2.2 GJ engine? I thought it was at the front right of the engine, according to the limited information I can find, but I don't see it. No doubt it is staring me right in the face :)

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I just noticed this at the front of the engine. It looks like something is corroded or cut, but it may not be in use. I'm not sure what this is...
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Thanks Jay! Yeah it looks like a cable or somerhing but I'm not totally sure what it is.

I've literally just removed the MAP sensor and it looks well clogged up to me. I have the MAF sensor off too. Just giving them a good clean now. Hopefully this will make a difference :)

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Ok, MAF and MAP sensors cleaned out and put back. The MAF looked OK but the MAP sensor was completely clogged up. It was really bad. I've cleaned it out as best I can. Took the car for a quick test drive and it's driving absolutely fine. No issues with lag or rough idling etc. I've cleared any pending error codes and will just have to wait and see if it throws anymore error codes. If it does, I'm going to swap out the EGR valve which I can do myself, but if it needs the vacuum pump replaced I might need a garage to do that as it looks a little more challenging. I'll post an update in the coming days on how things are going. Thanks a million @Jay at you've been a great help!

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Discussion starter · #28 ·
That is totally clogged! You can’t see daylight.Effectively it cannot register manifold pressure changes when your pistons move.just looked to see what that cable is and sending you photos.From what I can tell the cable on my car runs to the alternator.I don’t know what’s happening as you must have a cable to your alternater.
Yeah it was really bad. It took quite a bit of time to clean it. Your'e right, a needle worked great. I ised a toothbrush as well but it was well solid. There's no possible way that could have been functioning correctly, or at all! I probably could have done a better job of cleaning it, but at least the sensor part is clear. I took the car for another spin this morning and plugged in the ODB reader. No errors or pending errors at the moment. I won't know for sure for at least a few more days.

Regarding the supposed cut cable, my alternator seems to be connectod alright. I will need to check over it again. I'm sure if it was a major issue, something would be noticeable. The only issue I have with the car now is that there is a clear juderring/vibration feeling on the steering wheel at high speeds - over 65 mph usually. I thought maybe it was the wheel balance but not so. I've had this checked. I have absolutely no idea what is causing this, but it is very notiecable. I will worry about this issue when I get the EGR/vacuum faults resolved.

I can send you a brilliant link for your engine where they do a 26 minute video cleaning the EGR system out of a CX5.It looks complicated if your not a mechanic and it won’t be cheap.How to Clean EGR System Removing Carbon MAZDA CX-5 2.2D 2014~ SH-VPTS FW6A-EL AWD Part 1.
Wow, how in heck did you find that? That is really helpful. If the MAP/MAF sensor cleaning doesn't resolve, I will definitely look into this. I had the engine carbon cleaned as well using a hydrogen cleaner or something. I am hoping this will make a difference. I will definitely watch this. Very useful!

Well pleased for you Viper and hopefully your sorted without using using a sledge hammer to crack a walnut.Just put the above words into google and the video comes up.Its a workshop in the Far East and they do a total strip down and remove the EGR cooler etc which you don’t have to do.However there is a 10 black bracket you need to to remove to get EGR off.😃
Hahah I've felt like taking a sledge hammer to the engine a few times, believe me! Not because it has been unreliable or anything, but just because of the annoying error codes that multiple garage visits have been unable to resolve.

I have read the vacuum pump may be a Mazda recall.See how you get on.
Yes I read that too somewhere. I did an online check with some Mazda recall checker (sorry, can't rememeber where I found it) and it said no recalls were due for mine. I may as well call them just to double check that this is correct. The only other post I've come across about the P258B fault was where a mechanic mentioned he had replaced loads of vacuum pumps due to this fault. If the red warning triangle comes up again, I may have to consider swapping it out. It looks more challenging than replacing the EGR valve so I might take it to a garage for this if needed.


How are you getting on your with Mazda Jay? I hope yo've got to the bottom of your issues. Many thanks again! You've been a great help :)
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thanks Jay. I plugged the ODB tool and it did show a pending error again for the EGR code P0401, so it's probably still there. I guess it will need a proper clean out. No vacuum error code yet though. Either way, that MAP sensor definitely needed a good cleaning out. There's no way it could have been functioning like that!

I'll keep you updated.

P. S It's good to see a garage making a good effort to make sure their cars are running well. There's far too many who don't bother. (y)
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Use Wynns EGR cleaner for diesel engines as the soot is different between petrol and diesel.I think a pending error will have to trip 3 times before it registers.Hopefully your vacuum doesn’t light up.We tested the car and the traction light came on even though it drove really well.Its going to Mazda dealer for their diagnostic checks.The first check is £70.After that your charged until they get a definitive cause.Waiting to see where we go with this one.Will update accordingly 😀.
It was all good for 100 miles.
Same thing here. Both lights are now back on again but the car is driving perfectly fine. I might just swap out the EGR valve to see if it makes any difference as its only a 10 minute job, then I'll consider taking everything apart to give it a good clean.

Check the connecting pipes for soot when you do the work 👍
I also have a vacuump test kit which will check pipes for leaks etc but I've no idea how to use it lol. I guess I'll fijd something on Youtube which shows how to test propely. I'll keep you posted :)
 
Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
The EGR pipe was left on to create height and the cooler filled to where visible on the left hand side (inlet).Both holes were taped overnight to prevent evaporation.
Well lots of carbon was removed.When emptied air line used to blow the channels.Cooler is now fitted and we will test drive again 🤔
That's really interesting how the cleaning process works. I live in Northern Ireland otherwise I would seriously consider getting it properly cleaned out from one of those places you mentioned. I could almost be sure that this is the cause of my EGR fault. Like I say, I am going to swap out the EGR valve purely because it is staightforward enough to do compared to taking the engine apart to clean it.

Regarding the vacuum pump code - P258B, I am beginning to think that the puimp is faulty. Today when going down a hill I decided to intermittently press the brake pedal. After a few presses, the brake pedal stiffened up and had little effect on the brakes. The car would still slow down but nowhere near as fast as it normally should.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I swapped out the EGR valve today and took the car for a test drive. It was driving absolutely fine as ever but unfortunately the P0401 error code popped up again. I didn't think it was the EGR valve anyway but at least we now know for sure that it isn't. I think the best thing to do now is as you suggested. A proper clean of the whole EGR system. There was plenty of carbom laying in the EGR valve and the connecting ports etc. I'm really not sure what else it could be.

I had a look at the vacuum pump and it looks a little more complicated than I'm comfortable with. I'll ask a local mechanic to do it as he'll do a far better job than I would. I'll ask him about the best way to go about doing a proper EGR system clean too.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Excellent! Fingers crossed you've got to the bottom of it. It's so difficult to troubleshoot these things.

I wonder is the EGR cooler the cause of my woes too? I had the engine hydrogen cleaned for the same price but I am still seeing a lot of carbon in it.
 
Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
@Jay at Would you happen to have the part number handy for the EGR Cooler? I think it's the same engine as yours. There's a few on Ebay for around 60 quid so I'm thinking maybe it's worth a shot rather than sending off the EGR Cooler in the post. Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Thanks for the part number @Jay at :)

Mine is a 2014 2.2D Skyactive GJ engine code.

I've been seriously considering buying an ultrasonic cleaner. 6l ones on ebay for around £90. I imagine this place in Pontefract do something similar. I could use this to clean vaeious EGR parta amongst other things. I've watched a few videos on it and most people seem to think they do an excellent job. I'm not sure if the 6l version is big enough for the EGR Cooler but a 10l one is only a few pounds more.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
I think I'm going to order the 10l one. It is virtually the same price as the 6l version and the question is always going to be in my mind that I should have go the bigger size. It looks like it's going to take a week or so to deliver. There was another version on Ebay which I could have got quicker but they don't deliver to Northern Ireland. Hopefully the EGR cooler isn't too difficult to remove! :)
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Wow that's really helpful of you Jay. Much appreciated! I had the airbox and battery etc off already and it was straightforward. It was when I contemplated swapping out the vacuum pump. I've thought about it and I've decided to give it another go. I hate the hose clips and removing the hoses but I've ordered a couple of tools that should make it a lot easier. I may as well have another go seeing as I have to remove the battery /airbox etc anyway (to get at the EGR cooler).

I ordered the 10l ultrasonic cleaner and it's been dispatched already. Hopefully it will arrive later this week. If it all works out and does the job, I'd be more than happy to throw your EGR cooler into it at no cost (other than postage obviously). Its the least i can do considering all the help you've given me so far!

I wonder is there anything else other than the EGR valve and cooler l could easily throw in to the cleaner? I was thinking the MAP sensor as it's still a bit dirty but not sure if the water will damge it.