[Cdn17Sport6MT]

To explore the rust falling into the tank issue - surely it's not great or good, but generally one might expect that corrosion product is heavier than gasoline - and will fall. Also, of course the pump has an intake sock, too. Because access is so easy mebe DO go ahead and extract those screws, and then start with a new ring and screws that you scuff up, prime, and topcoat, and then liberally rustproof. If you start with a new sock filter, then consider viewing again in six mos....

Others???

 

[natesomers]

I wanted to provide an overview of the fix on my vehicle after realizing a fuel smell while parked in the garage. Here are the parts used.

Part Number Part Name
GHP9-42-16X Fuel Pump Assembly Retainer Ring (OEM)
BBM2-42-166A Fuel Pump Assembly Gasket (OEM)
PE11-13-35X Fuel Pump Assembly (OEM) - Not required but wanted to replace proactively
9983-30-408 Fuel Pump Assembly Screw (OEM).

You will want your fuel level to be 1/4 or less if possible. It seems like it would be close to the top of the fuel pump opening even at 1/2 tank.

My screws were really rusted. Following some suggestions, I soaked them in PB blaster for over 24 hours and tried different size Vessel JIS screwdrivers and JIS drill bit to attempt removal, all of them stripped out (do not try too hard and strip them out too far, you will want to have some material left to try and grip with locking pliers later). For all 8 screws they were too far rusted to be removed easily. The best method for me was using a small center punch and hammer to knock them loose. Strike the screw in a way the it will start to rotate it loose. Then using a small quality locking pliers to grip the screw head to unscrew. One screw had to be carefully drilled out. The threads were a bit damaged but still usable after drilling out. Used some blue thread locker for that one screw to keep it from coming loose.

Be sure to do this in a well ventilated area and disconnect the battery. Be careful not to kink the fuel line. Follow the instructions to depressurize the fuel line before disconnecting.

Make sure to clean the top of the tank before starting. A little metallic/rust debris got in the tank, but it was easy to clean out with a small strong magnet. Get one of those extending magnets for this.

Final reminder that you are working around fumes that can ignite, especially once the tank is open. Please take it to a mechanic if you are not comfortable performing the repair.

 

[Goatz1234]

I wanted to provide an overview of the fix on my vehicle after realizing a fuel smell while parked in the garage. Here are the parts used.

Part Number Part Name
GHP9-42-16X Fuel Pump Assembly Retainer Ring (OEM)
BBM2-42-166A Fuel Pump Assembly Gasket (OEM)
PE11-13-35X Fuel Pump Assembly (OEM) - Not required but wanted to replace proactively
9983-30-408 Fuel Pump Assembly Screw (OEM).

You will want your fuel level to be 1/4 or less if possible. It seems like it would be close to the top of the fuel pump opening even at 1/2 tank.

My screws were really rusted. Following some suggestions, I soaked them in PB blaster for over 24 hours and tried different size Vessel JIS screwdrivers and JIS drill bit to attempt removal, all of them stripped out (do not try too hard and strip them out too far, you will want to have some material left to try and grip with locking pliers later). For all 8 screws they were too far rusted to be removed easily. The best method for me was using a small center punch and hammer to knock them loose. Strike the screw in a way the it will start to rotate it loose. Then using a small quality locking pliers to grip the screw head to unscrew. One screw had to be carefully drilled out. The threads were a bit damaged but still usable after drilling out. Used some blue thread locker for that one screw to keep it from coming loose.

Be sure to do this in a well ventilated area and disconnect the battery. Be careful not to kink the fuel line. Follow the instructions to depressurize the fuel line before disconnecting.

Make sure to clean the top of the tank before starting. A little metallic/rust debris got in the tank, but it was easy to clean out with a small strong magnet. Get one of those extending magnets for this.

Final reminder that you are working around fumes that can ignite, especially once the tank is open. Please take it to a mechanic if you are not comfortable performing the repair.

Hi, many thanks for the info. I just wanted to double check that this solved the issue?
I have similar corrosion (not quite as bad) but no wetness. when you opened the hatch under the seat did it smell strong of gas? Mine does not.
I have the same issue you had, smell of gas at the middle to rear driver side when engine is on. No code or leaks seen on the floor. I’m thinking the charcoal canister could be the cause, I know there is a recall where overfilling results in gas entering the charcoal canister.

 

[lukartoil]

Having the same issue right now on my 2015 Mazda 3. The screws wont come out even with penetrating oil, drilling them is probably the only way. I was wondering if anyone looked into using a gasket maker, like these two:

1. ABRO Ultra Plus RTV Silicone Sealant and Gasket Maker Black 999
2. Permatex 85420 Permashield Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing

any recommendation on which one to use ? The first one hardens, and seems to be a good option in general, but not graded for fuel. The second stays liquid, which might be terrible in terms of attracting girt.