[/quote]


I take it the last pic is showing how the gaskets match up to the ports? The red is your marker? If so, it looks pretty good match for an OEM part.

Are you going to port match the head too?

Wayne

 

I take it the last pic is showing how the gaskets match up to the ports? The red is your marker? If so, it looks pretty good match for an OEM part.

Are you going to port match the head too?

Wayne[/b]

I guess I should have taken pics before I started
you wouldn't say that if you would see the before pics
you wouldn't believe how much I've trimmed and cut from this manifold either....

 

Looking good man! Keep up the good work!

 

Awesome.

I'm guessing blue powdercoat?

 

Nice. Be sure to post before & after dynos

 

In that first pic the manifold looks dirty as sin.

I haven't looked at the manifold myself when it is off of the car, does it have alot of material that needs to go? From the pics that I have seen, the intake seemed to be pretty thin already, but the heads appeared to need alot of work to flow properly.

Honestly I would love to see someone do a sheet metal intake and cut the divider out between the long and short runners on the heads and then see what the heads flow. I don't think you would even need to port the heads as the valves would be the greatest restriction.

 

thanks guys

sbspeed - blue most likely :yesnod:

Corpus_Speed6 - in reference to the dirt. This is off a blown engine but to tell you the truth, my intake looks similar on the inside. If you remove the manifold and look at the area where I made the block off plate, you'll see where the contamination enters the intake.
After I did the VCTS delete on the manifold that is currently on my car, I decided to end the oily disaster that is taking place in the intake and valve stem area of the head

I'm installing my Carbing oil catch can between the PCV tank on the front of the block and the vacuum port on the bottom of the intake and of course deleted the EGR - this will put an end to anyones oily intake woes

I'll have plenty of pics when I install this intake in a few weeks

as for the intake being thin, I've seen thinner
I would like to see a fabricated aluminum manifold at some point too

but keep in mind that my only goal isn't just improved flow, its putting an end to the oily mess going on in there and it will be an apperance improvement for my engine bay

 

What will deleting the egr do to the way the car runs?

 

You should send that out to Extrude Hone to get the inside smoothed.

http://www.extrudehone.com/auto/

 

You should send that out to Extrude Hone to get the inside smoothed.

http://www.extrudehone.com/auto/[/b]

i was going to do that but my local extrude hone source "Bonehead Perf." quoted me over $400.00 which exceeds the amount I want to spend on the stock intake
The cost of the extraude hone is only slightly less than what a custom fabricated 4cyl intake would cost which is why that was ruled out

 

What will deleting the egr do to the way the car runs?[/b]

I'm reviewing the EGR diamgrams with Jason at onlinemazda.com
it may affect how the car runs by deleteing the EGR but nobody knows until you try.
each car acts differently from deleting the EGR
As complex as the speed 6 is, it may affect how it runs but we'll see.

as plan B, I will be installing a filter before the intake to clean up the air before it re-enters the system

 

What's likely to happen, is your EGTs will go up as well as your combustiuon temps, but not under heavy load. EGR is used to lower temps during light operation so that NO and NO2 are produced less. They aren't set up to be active under heavy load or idle as far as I know.

 

What's likely to happen, is your EGTs will go up as well as your combustiuon temps, but not under heavy load. EGR is used to lower temps during light operation so that NO and NO2 are produced less. They aren't set up to be active under heavy load or idle as far as I know.[/b]

EGR is adding exhaust to the intake only during light to moderate throttle.

EGR+Crankcase vapors is why we have all that garbage inside our intake manifolds and on the backsides of the intake valves.

By adding the inert gas to the combustion chamber when called for the intake charge is diluted. This makes for lower combustion temperatures and therefore reduces Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) that would otherwise be produced.
Nitrogen is converted to NOx at combustion temps over 1400 degrees f

 

I have never seen a car that reacted badly to a EGR delete. That being said, there is always a first I guess.

 

Nice work. So what's the side effects of having all of that puke inside our intake manifolds and valves? Restricted flow, correct?
That's alot of work that I'm not interested in doing in order to eliminate the oily substance. Is that stuff permanent once it enters the intake system through the EGR, or does it work its way through over time?

 

I bet it plays a huge factor in the smoke issues.

 

I bet it plays a huge factor in the smoke issues.[/b]

I am thinking the same thing...

 

Whoosh,
very nice work, great start!

 

Okay, I'm game. How do we delete the EGR?

 

Okay, I'm game. How do we delete the EGR?[/b]

remove tube part number 20-310
a block off plate will be required - refer to my first pic in post #1 of this thread, the EGR tube area is cut off the manifold and I made a block off plate. I'll make the block off plate for the EGR valve itself when removed from the vehicle

idea #2 to eliminate the intake sludge is adding an oil catch can between the PCV valve and the intake manifold vacuum reference
tube part number 13-895B will be removed and the catch can routed in its place

 

Where is that pvc valve actually located? Would it be possible to simply block that off, or do you think it's there to pull the sludge out of the pan and burn it up?

Also, I just thought of one potential issue with deleting the egr. The ecu commands it, and thus expects it. Just like a bov in vta, it's going to dump in a little more fuel to make up for what it thinks is getting rerouted back into the intake. However, this could prove to be a good thing, due to our lean spot in the low rpms, when the egr is typically going to be active.

I was also curious as to what parts the exhaust side of the egr hose connect to. I can see there are two modules of some sort connected together, but I'm not exactly sure what's what in the pic. I'm thinking that if one of those is a sensor, the ecu might not like to see that no exhaust gas is going back to the intake. Not sure what it would do, but it's got my attention. If that is the case, you could run the hose (or a longer one) down under the car to basically vent anytime the ecu commands the egr. Ecu would see the exhaust gas leaving, thus dumping in a tad more fuel to make up for the small amount of hot air that should be entering the intake, in turn richening up those low rpm lean spots. All speculation though.

 

you better check to make sure that the egr doesn't have a temp sensor to check to verify that when the egr opens the tube heats up, thereby verifying egr operation.

The older mazdas had this in the FS and it played hell with many would-be egr removal folks.

Otherwise you will throw a CEL. On the FS it was pretty easy, you could take the EGR solenoid signal and run it to a relay so that it would switch in another resistor across the sensor to make the ecu think the temperature increased. It was about a 2 dollar fix.

 

I might be tackling this project tomorrow or Friday. Any tips to keep in mind?

 

I might be tackling this project tomorrow or Friday. Any tips to keep in mind?[/b]

The screws holding the flaps in are made of really soft metal and will strip very easily because the end is flared. I've broken half of the screws I've tried to get out - no worries there b/c you're removing it anyway. I have had to drill a couple though. If you do that you'll need a good way to clean the shavings out of the intake. Get a good screwdriver and a friend to hold the mani in place and use a lot of pressure to keep from stripping the screws. Other than that, it's pretty simple.

 

Where is that pvc valve actually located? Would it be possible to simply block that off, or do you think it's there to pull the sludge out of the pan and burn it up?

Also, I just thought of one potential issue with deleting the egr. The ecu commands it, and thus expects it. Just like a bov in vta, it's going to dump in a little more fuel to make up for what it thinks is getting rerouted back into the intake. However, this could prove to be a good thing, due to our lean spot in the low rpms, when the egr is typically going to be active.

I was also curious as to what parts the exhaust side of the egr hose connect to. I can see there are two modules of some sort connected together, but I'm not exactly sure what's what in the pic. I'm thinking that if one of those is a sensor, the ecu might not like to see that no exhaust gas is going back to the intake. Not sure what it would do, but it's got my attention. If that is the case, you could run the hose (or a longer one) down under the car to basically vent anytime the ecu commands the egr. Ecu would see the exhaust gas leaving, thus dumping in a tad more fuel to make up for the small amount of hot air that should be entering the intake, in turn richening up those low rpm lean spots. All speculation though.[/b]

the PCV valve is part # 13-890 in the diagram
blocking is not an option since you need to release crankcase pressure
you could theoretically just vent it but using vacuum to pull vs. just vent is a good thing
This is why you employ the catch can so your vacuum pull is present minus the contaminated oily residue

I'll post some ifo regarding the EGR removal when I get there...I have to finish the manifold in the meantime...
You can fool the ECU to rid the car of EGR but we'll have to see how it reacts - info to follow....

here is another pic of my progress: