[djquik1]

I tried the 2v coil,not the others.I sold those coils off to a friend at a loss,so I wasn't ready to take a plunge just yet when I had so many other projects going and money going several directions at once.But alot of those coils have been superseded and cross to other coils as well.I pulled some out of the boxes and matched up engineering numbers to figure out what route to take.They may have different part#'s due to the boots,but I found only 3 different engineering numbers on the coils themselves.It's bad when you have a motorcraft part in a mazda box.But i do see where you are going with this,find out which coil works and just get mazda boots for the coil

 

[84FordMan]

I never actually installed the Cobra coil on my car, because I was too determined to find out if they put out anything more than the factory coil trying to use a spark tester. I could never get the tester to work. I believe I still have the coil out in my tool box in the shed, no longer have a vehicle to try it on. If I still have it, I would be willing to mail it out to someone who wants to try it. It does me no good anymore.

 

[djquik1]

I am up for trying,send it to me and if you still have that Taurus manifold i might be interested in that.

 

[Boozted]

Any progress on this project?

 

[e4w]

bump

 

[lemonrider]

I just had ignition coil 6 go out on my 2005 Mazda 6S. The mechanic adivsed that I replace all of them at once to save in the long run in case more go out. Cost me $1200 which included new plugs as well. I hope I didnt get robbed.

 

[e4w]

woooo, what plugs and coils did they put in? i need to find some 6's near me, i know i can do this kind of job for less than that.

 

[The_Trader]

1200.... wow, pretty sure you were had!!

I bought all new coils from RockAuto, along with new plugs, the total was around 350 canadian, and I put them all in myself with directions from this website in about 4 hours or less... I took my time.

It sounds like a big crazy job to remove the manifold, but its really not that bad....

I was getting mis-fires on a few cylinders, but after removing all the stock coils and looking them over, they ALL had cracks in the plastic... which explains the mis-fire during and a bit after wet weather...

Since the replacement, the car has been running perfect in rain storms, and even picked up a bit of pep... the old plugs were a bit worn.... oh, I have 108,000km on my 2004.

-Daniel

 

[e4w]

did you get a check engine light on your 6, with a misfire code? i havent seen this yet, all i get is a slight stumble every now and then

 

[lemonrider]

did you get a check engine light on your 6, with a misfire code? i havent seen this yet, all i get is a slight stumble every now and then

Well I don't think I got robbed. Coils are about $100 a pop + plugs + the labor. Almost half was labor...it pays to know how to turn a wrench. I would love to have the time, but I'm in the middle of moving and have NO time.

Mine started by a slight stutter under half throttle, most noticable up hill for some reason. It progressed quickly though, maybe a month or 2 tops to being very noticable. You don't want to run it long like this or you may jack up your cats and then your really screwed...at least thats what I've read. I did have an engine light come on when it first started, but it went off. I did get codes that pointed to faulty coils. I figured best to replace them all and save in the labor in the long run.

 

[e4w]

i just changed one coil Friday for $65 with LL Warranty. the night before i kept thinking about my cats and decided to take a closer look at my coils. all this time, i was thinking a bad coil will have high resistance and/or a cracked boot, but after further looking i saw a crack in the housing one of my coils. i decided to go with the Oreilly coil because they had the best warranty and price. i'll do the same for the others when they start dying. my hesitation/stumble is gone!

 

[techzilla627]

Haven't posted here in a while.

I've been having these stuttering/hesitation problems as well on my 2005 6s hatch since about 56,000 miles. Usually it happens at part throttle under 2000 rpm. Also, I have a terrible bouncing idle that is exacerbated by turning on the A/C. This causes a rather rough and aberrant vibration (and I know what the car should feel at idle with added vibration because I've had the CP-E engine mount since 2006). I said hey, maybe it's a vacuum hose; so, I replaced all of them around the airbox. The problem remained. I then figured it had to be plugs, coils or a combo of both; so, I started with the path of least resistance (read: money) and swapped out the plugs. Gapped them to spec myself and installed them myself (therefore it was done correctly), but the problem went away and came back. Today, while driving I got a blinking cel followed by a solid cel. Swung by Autozone and got the code checked for free--P0301

It's good news because a replacement coil has a high percentage chance to fix the problem. But there's also bad news because I have to take off the intake manifold again because that plug is in the back left of the engine compartment. Time consuming for me, but hey, it could be worse right? *knocks on wood*

I think I'll also be going to O'reilly for the coil because I like that lifetime warranty and they are about $5 less than the OEM plugs (plus I don't have to deal with the dealer...ha!). Will update tomorrow.

 

[e4w]

yea i had a similar problem, but no CEL. i marked my plugs for each cylinder they came from. plugs from #2 and 3 was carboned more than the others, so just in case i moved coils #2&3 to the front for easy access. my hesitation continued so i went back with the stock double plat motorcraft from Mazda. hesitation continued, so i checked the suspected coils and finally noticed a hair-thin crack in the top. i went to Oreilly, ordered a new coil with the LL Warranty, no more hesitation under load/stumble at idle.

 

[techzilla627]

I went ahead and bought six coils since I don't feel like having to replace the coils one by one as it fails (though it's certainly a possibility that they might fail anyway in the future), and also I might as well since I will be taking off the intake manifold. The part number at O'reilly was BWD E426 if anyone wants to know.

I also picked up a new air filter for the stock airbox, and I'll be cleaning the EGR as well as doing the EGR mod. I'm also going to add a new PCV inline with the OEM one just for car death prophylaxis. I've never had oil loss issues...yet.

As a chem major in college, it sort of goes against my desire to change one variable at a time and note the difference by doing everything at once. Then again, it's TX and I don't want to be under a hood out in the heat more than I have to be. Install should be done tomorrow.

 

[e4w]

understandable, as a married man, brand new home owner, and car lover, i have to compromise when it comes to purchases. im not touching my EGR until i get new headers, don't want any ceramic pieces getting sucked through my EGR tube like some members on here! my theory on the PCV is if i continue to use synthetic oil, preventing sludge in my motor and new PCV, it can be replaced less often.

 

[techzilla627]

Finished up the install. Car runs just as I expect it to. No hesitation during normal driving or with the A/C on. The coil that was causing the misfire didn't have any external, large defects on it. I'll check it later, but for now I'm happy that everything is back to normal.