[ashona]

car DVD player online store

7 inch monitor touch High Definition (HD) screen Mazda 3 Car DVD Player with GPS Navigation System Bluetooth TV

Product Description:
7 inch monitor touch screen double-Din complete car entertainment system
Compatible with DivX,MP4,MP3,multiple regions DVD, VCD, CD and CD-R/CD-RW
Built-in GPS function and Bluetooth for hands free call (play CD/DVD/FM while watching GPS navigation image)
Keys with touch sensor
OSD menu with graphical user interface
USB port and SD slots
Built in TV tuner,PAL/NTSC or SECAM compatible
Built in FM/AM tuner,OS: WIndows CE 5.0
Warranty：One year

car DVD player online store

 

[charles]

QUOTE (bconverse @ Oct 26 2009, 03:21 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1611693

Bump for update[/b]

He is supposed to be getting it tested today....

Oh by the way john when the guy sets your timeing back you will also need to set the crank pulley to the crank sensor. There is a little mark on the pulley that will line up with the sensor before tightening!! I can have a picture up later if need be..

 

[j0hn08]

alright this is what we did so far.
we opened up the valve cover and noticed that camshaft is off by 180degrees. also the crankshaft pulley lock bolt was loose. WTF is going on here??? from the top of the engine everything looks good visually.
I spoke to the guys that build the engine and they said that they properly torqued down those bolt and it became loose because of too much stress on the engine while we were dynoing it. they will also not warranty the motor. Do you guys believe them about the bolt getting loose even if it is properly tq down? i havent done an engine build review yet because i cannot get the car in perfect working condition. it should be up soon...

Charles thanks for calling me last week. this is where we stop for now. would you happen to have the workshop manual for our cars?

 

[jmhinkle]

They didn't torque it enough. Plain and simple.

 

[j0hn08]

thats i what i told them. they said if they didnt tq it down properly, it should probably come loose a lot sooner. not this late
it happened after around 4500 miles on the engine. this is when were already stressing the motor. dyno/tune


anyway earlier i test drove an s2000. its a nice car. shifting gear is really smooth. you dont need a SS on this. its slow though. you need to FI it to go faster.
i need a 2nd car while this car is down.

 

[pray4mojo]

QUOTE (john @ Oct 26 2009, 05:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1611970

thats i what i told them. they said if they didnt tq it down properly, it should probably come loose a lot sooner. not this late
it happened after around 4500 miles on the engine. this is when were already stressing the motor. dyno/tune


anyway earlier i test drove an s2000. its a nice car. shifting gear is really smooth. you dont need a SS on this. its slow though. you need to FI it to go faster.
i need a 2nd car while this car is down.[/b]

was this the first time you ran your car that hard? perhaps regular daily driving wasn't enough to loosen the bolts and running it hard finally did it.

 

[j0hn08]

this is the 2nd time.

1st time was the one when my maf was maxing out on the dyno.

 

[charles]

QUOTE (john @ Oct 27 2009, 03:25 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1611996

this is the 2nd time.

1st time was the one when my maf was maxing out on the dyno.[/b]

Ok are you ready :bsflag: that is just plain and simple :bsflag: you have NOOO idea how long it would take for that bolt to back out or with what ever amount of stress you put on it. But the point is if they torqued it down PROPERLY then it would hold. Ask them what is the procedure for tightening the bolt down and see if they tell you that is it first 70lbft and then after you have done that then you turn it an additional 90o.

Now if your cams were 180 out then you might want to pray that they didn't hit!!! You have to take the timing cover off to check the crank for TDC then set the blind plug. Once you have taken the cover off I would turned the cams SLOWLY back to TDC first and then set them. The reason i say slowly is because if you hear them crushing you can stop before you do tooo much damage if any. Now once the crank and cams are done then you can put the timing chain and cover on and this time have to them do the procedure for the bolt correctly.

Think of it like this if they did the procedure right for the bolt just like mazda has done then wouldn't all of our bolts back out under stress??? What do you need to know out of the book?

i believe the dyno probably put too much stress on it for the TORQUE that they used to tighten it. When the car lost power is right when it started coming loose i would bet on that!!

 

[j0hn08]

my mechanic wants the engine build section of it. can i call you tomorrow when were about to setup the timing on the car?

 

[y2kc0wb0y]

I have a digital copy of the manual...I can take some screen shots for you.

 

[j2south]

Haven't you guys heard? Bolts back out all of the time when properly torqued down... That's why everyone here in this forum with 300+ HP goes through the motor and tightens every bolt down right? I mean, I do, every thousand miles and every time the car gets dyno'd it needs new bolts because of the stress. :nono: WTF!?! Go punch every douche that touched your engine and tell them to fix it for free!

 

[charles]

Here are a few pics i took really quick but i can take better ones if these dont work right... took them in a hurry as i need to get home.. Hour drive from shop

 

[j0hn08]

haha its too small. thanks anyway
i actually have this workshop manual. http://rapidshare.com/files/298444276/1.PDF.html
i checked the vin#'s and mine is not included there. not sure if we have the same copy

can someone doublecheck?

 

[FORZDA 1]

QUOTE (john @ Oct 27 2009, 12:33 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1612026

haha its too small. thanks anyway
i actually have this workshop manual. http://rapidshare.com/files/298444276/1.PDF.html
i checked the vin#'s and mine is not included there. not sure if we have the same copy

can someone doublecheck?[/b]

There's even a TSB concerning the crank pulley and torqueing it properly. It applies to several MZR engines, including the 2.3 DISI turbo, the NA 2.3 in my `06 M6i, and the 2.0 in my `06 Miata. Your "mechanic" blew it on this one and should bite the bullet and fix your engine. I'm pretty sure you must also replace the crank bolt each time it is removed because it is stretched to the max yield length per the torqeing instructions. It doesn't come back to normal length after removing. This may be where your guy made the error...?

 

[y2kc0wb0y]

*Must replace the crank bolt each time. Torqued to yield*

Here's DadasRaceCar manually spinning over the L3K9 MZR DISI engine with no valve cover per manual instructions.
http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii124/y...nt=100_2872.flv

 

[djuosnteisn]

And here's a guy with a butt-sniffer-mobile:
http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii124/y...nt=100_2819.flv



John, seriously you have to be stern with that fucker if he's trying to weasel out of fixing his mistake. Tell him to just man up and admit he got his shit wrong. Charles' idea of straight up asking him what the proper procedure is, is a great idea. I bet he doesn't know.

 

[driver-13]

this has been somewhat helpful as i am having the exact same thing happen to me. i just had my turbo replaced under warranty (for an oil leak) and now i can hear the turbo kicking dick, but the motor has no balls. luckily dropping it at the dealer on monday and will post what they find. good luck.

 

[j2south]

QUOTE (driver-13 @ Oct 29 2009, 07:18 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1612725

this has been somewhat helpful as i am having the exact same thing happen to me. i just had my turbo replaced under warranty (for an oil leak) and now i can hear the turbo kicking dick, but the motor has no balls. luckily dropping it at the dealer on monday and will post what they find. good luck.[/b]

Unless your motor had something done to it, it's probably your fuel pump. Just a guess, we'll see when your dealer finds out!

 

[charles]

QUOTE (Jus10 @ Oct 29 2009, 04:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1612740

Unless your motor had something done to it, it's probably your fuel pump. Just a guess, we'll see when your dealer finds out![/b]

I agree as this is not a common situation. Your problem could many things like the pump, BOV or something as simple as the I/C hose.. Create another thread if need be and maybe we can help with your situation.

JOHN when i talked to your mechanic and i didn't get the since that he really knew how to work on this car. Not to say he doesn't know how to work on cars just not this one. So please make sure that he follows these step carefully..

Since your cams were 180o out i am already fearful that your valves might be bent since we have found out that the pulley came loose and you were trying to do a compression test in which the crank was the only thing turning during this test hense he low compression reading.

So first i would

slowly turn the cams back to TDC(top dead center) and set the alignment tool for the cam to lock them in place.
(slowly because you are not sure where the pistons are relative to the valves)

Once you have gotten them set the i would set the crank to TDC and re install the timing chain and redo the test. The test i would do though would be a leak test so that if it is still low then you will know where it is coming from.

 

[j0hn08]

yeah this is his 1st disi engine work.
hes actually a specialist on s2000's and hes pretty well known on those platforms.

we havent had the chance to open the timing cover yet. hes pretty busy this week.
now i can wait because i just bought myself a DD and prolly after 2 years i will make it a beast=D