[aviator79]

Ya, he did that.
To use another ECU the vin does have to be programed in acording to fireboy.

 

[bconverse]

Bump for update

 

[j0hn08]

ok heres what happened.
last night i keep trying to crank the car, and you guess the battery got low. earlier this morning i check the fuel pressure again and it was 60psi compared from 1500psi last night and battery is still low. disconnected the fuel pump harness again to see if its gonna change the value and it didnt. tried to start the car and still no success. i was gonna remove the ecu already and i noticed something on my fuel pump. theres a crack on the top.

so i called josh from cp-e right away and told him about it and he said its probably the fuel pump causing the issue. he told me to dont send out the ecu yet until i install the new pump. so i kinda agreed with him because of the information i got from dashhawk. i was so desperate to get the car working again so i went to the dealer and bought a new one. came back to the car and decided to use my other battery from my mazda6 so i can crank it again. i put the battery in and check for fuel pressure on ON position. WTF???? it came back up around 400. so i can say its not the fuel pump again.. maybe.... i didnt install the new one yet. i will do that tomorrow.

 

[j2south]

GL! Let us know what happens after the fuel pump install.

 

[j0hn08]

i didnt end up installing the new pump. my mechanic noticed something when i try to start the car. the drivebelt doesnt spin at all. he look at the crankshaft pulley and notice it was spinning but its not spinning the belt at all. he noticed the crankshaft pulley bolt was loose. its not tight causing the belt not to spin because there is no tension on it. WTF??? is that possible that it got loose overtime????? he tightened it and crank the car again. the belt spin again but still no car running. decided to check for compression for the 3rd time. Guess what??? theres the bad news no compression at cylinders 1,2,4 and 23psi on cylinder 3. were gonna start looking at the engine tomorrow or monday to see WTF happened. anyone know where i should start looking?

im very tired working on this car already. its very hard to abandon it considering all the money that was spent.

 

[pray4mojo]

seems like the problem just keeps jumping around. gl

 

[bconverse]

QUOTE (john @ Oct 22 2009, 07:33 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1611014

i didnt end up installing the new pump. my mechanic noticed something when i try to start the car. the drivebelt doesnt spin at all. he look at the crankshaft pulley and notice it was spinning but its not spinning the belt at all. he noticed the crankshaft pulley bolt was loose. its not tight causing the belt not to spin because there is no tension on it. WTF??? is that possible that it got loose overtime????? he tightened it and crank the car again. the belt spin again but still no car running. decided to check for compression for the 3rd time. Guess what??? theres the bad news no compression at cylinders 1,2,4 and 23psi on cylinder 3. were gonna start looking at the engine tomorrow or monday to see WTF happened. anyone know where i should start looking?

im very tired working on this car already. its very hard to abandon it considering all the money that was spent.[/b]

What happened between the time the first compression test was done and this one?

 

[j0hn08]

i know 1st and 2nd was good. and then something prolly happened after that. maybe the timing chain pop off or something.

 

[808MS6]

Did you do a leakdown test?

 

[j0hn08]

yeah we have to do that 1st. not yet

 

[808MS6]

All that troubleshooting and you guys haven't performed a leakdown test yet? That would have been one of the first things I would have done.

 

[j0hn08]

we havent done it because compression test seems to be good on the 1st 2

 

[charles]

QUOTE (808MS6 @ Oct 23 2009, 03:46 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1611046

Did you do a leakdown test?[/b]

ok what the hell is going on here?? Ok so first i am not sure who put that crank bolt on but the procedure for that bolt is to tighten it to about 70 ftlbs and then turn is another 45o after that. That bolt will press against two gears (the timing chain gear and the oil pump gear) as there is no woodrof key in this motor. So if that pulley is spinning freely then it was not properly torqued down. Now when you did tighten it back down you should have made sure that you set the timing back because with the crank pulley loose the crank would still be able to turn but the timing chain wouldn't thus causeing the car to be out of the time. Hopefully since this probably was not done then i hope you didn't bend any valves once you tighten the crank pulley down and cranked the motor. I beieve the reason that your car will not start is one probably out of time and hopefully it is not also because it has a bent valve. To set your timing you will need a blind plug bolt and you will also need a cam alignment tool. I think these things should be check before you turn that motor over again!!!

There is a way to set the timing if you dont have all these tools but it is recommended that you have them. This also might be the reason for lose in power as well. I am willing to bet that your bottom end is fine. Not to sure about your top though as the leak test should reveal. But you can't do a proper leak test unless you have the timing set right. Sorry i have not called you as i have been really busy building cars and doing dyno days!! I will try and give you a call tomorrow if i have time. Also about your pump... since it is cam driven if your pulley was loose then you cams should not have been turning the pump.

here is the blind plug:

Here is where the blind plug meets the crank which is TDC. Also you will notice the timing chain with the gear. That gear can spin freely and will alway spin freely until the crank pulley bolt presses that and the oil gear to the crank and this will cause the crank to turn both the timing chain and the oil pump.

Here is a picture of your cams at TDC so when you have the crank it the position that you see in the other picture your cams should line up like this every two revolutions.

 

[808MS6]

QUOTE (john @ Oct 22 2009, 06:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1611061

we havent done it because compression test seems to be good on the 1st 2[/b]

I have seen engines pass compression tests with flying colors and then fail a leakdown test. To dismiss a leakdown test because it passed a compression test is bad troubleshooting.

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

QUOTE (808MS6 @ Oct 23 2009, 01:02 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1611067

I have seen engines pass compression tests with flying colors and then fail a leakdown test. To dismiss a leakdown test because it passed a compression test is bad troubleshooting.[/b]

That's gospel right there.

 

[aviator79]

Sounds like it passed the first compression test because the cams were still in line, but now they got out of line and valves got bent so thats why its not starting and has no compression. It sucks, but whoever built it should be held responsible.

 

[jmhinkle]

That's what I'm reading. I still haven't seen a lot of the so-called "given" info in this thread.

 

[charles]

QUOTE (aviator79 @ Oct 23 2009, 03:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1611130

Sounds like it passed the first compression test because the cams were still in line, but now they got out of line and valves got bent so thats why its not starting and has no compression. It sucks, but whoever built it should be held responsible.[/b]

Well once he sets the the timing right then he can do the leak test and see if he has a bent valve or was the timing just off due to the pulley.

 

[Road Rage]

QUOTE (charles @ Oct 22 2009, 11:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1611063

ok what the hell is going on here?? Ok so first i am not sure who put that crank bolt on but the procedure for that bolt is to tighten it to about 70 ftlbs and then turn is another 45o after that. That bolt will press against two gears (the timing chain gear and the oil pump gear) as there is no woodrof key in this motor. So if that pulley is spinning freely then it was not properly torqued down. Now when you did tighten it back down you should have made sure that you set the timing back because with the crank pulley loose the crank would still be able to turn but the timing chain wouldn't thus causeing the car to be out of the time. Hopefully since this probably was not done then i hope you didn't bend any valves once you tighten the crank pulley down and cranked the motor. I beieve the reason that your car will not start is one probably out of time and hopefully it is not also because it has a bent valve. To set your timing you will need a blind plug bolt and you will also need a cam alignment tool. I think these things should be check before you turn that motor over again!!!

There is a way to set the timing if you dont have all these tools but it is recommended that you have them. This also might be the reason for lose in power as well. I am willing to bet that your bottom end is fine. Not to sure about your top though as the leak test should reveal. But you can't do a proper leak test unless you have the timing set right. Sorry i have not called you as i have been really busy building cars and doing dyno days!! I will try and give you a call tomorrow if i have time. Also about your pump... since it is cam driven if your pulley was loose then you cams should not have been turning the pump.

here is the blind plug:

Here is where the blind plug meets the crank which is TDC. Also you will notice the timing chain with the gear. That gear can spin freely and will alway spin freely until the crank pulley bolt presses that and the oil gear to the crank and this will cause the crank to turn both the timing chain and the oil pump.

Here is a picture of your cams at TDC so when you have the crank it the position that you see in the other picture your cams should line up like this every two revolutions.

[/b]

your the man charles, thats good info right there

 

[bconverse]

Bump for update