[ViperGRM]

Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual - Vacuum Pump Removal/Installation - General

www.mcx5.org

Thanks alot for that by the way! I didn't know this was available online. I only have the downloaded PDF version. Very handy. Thanks!

If you compare to the video certain things can just be placed to one side without compromising access.Use a clear ziplock bag to collect coolant and you can put it back in.Your vacuum pump is fully exposed 👍

Thanks. I will make sure to have a bag to hand to catch the coolant. I would guess spraying a load of carbon into those bits that I can't remove would be advisable? I guess I may as well. Might help release some of the hard to reach carbon build up parts.

Read up on the vacuum pump and see if it’s a straight on off job.No resetting or anything else you need to wary of.

There's only 3 bolts holding the vacuum pump on and it looks relatively straightforward to swap out. It just needs tobe alligned properly. I should point out that the replacement I have is a used one which has been tested working. I would ideally like to replace the O-rings but I'm not sure if these can be bought seperately. Well, I haven't been able to find any yet.

The photos are extremely helpful Jay. Thanks again for taking the time to do all this! Really appreciate it

 

[ViperGRM]

I just spoke to my local Mazda parts department there and they quoted £20+ VAT for the O-ring. Seems a bit expensive just for a little bit of rubber. I've not been able to find an alternative yet. Still looking.

 

[Jay at]

Main dealer monopoly probably.New seals are always slightly bigger than a used seal as they compress into position to effectively seal around the vacuum pump.

 

[ViperGRM]

The ultrasonic cleaner arrived today. I'm glad I went for the 10l size rather than the 6l. It looks smaller than I anticipated. I'm not overjoyed about the condition of it. It's supposed to be new, but quite clearly it has been used. I think it is going to be early next week before I get the time to use it properly. I'll keep you posted.

 

[Jay at]

I would complain to seller.We tried to return a dual action polishing mop to a seller who claimed to be in UK.He was actually in China and eBay refunded our money and told us to keep the machine and took him off eBay.We’re going into lockdown Thursday so cant trade.looking at walnut shell sand blasting for cleaning inlet valves for interest.😃

 

[ViperGRM]

Yeah that happens a fair bit on Ebay. Something similar happened to me too. The seller replied to me and "promised" it was new. Well, I disagree. There's also a plug missing for the drain at the bottom which they failed to mention. I've contacted them to see if they can sort it out.

I am literally jus about to start taking the EGR cooler and vacuump pump off now. I'll use some of the very handy tips you've given me. Hopefully I can get it all stripped out, cleaned and put back again without too many dramas. I will keep you updated. Thanks

 

[ViperGRM]

Ok, well I tried. It didn't work out the way I had hoped. I was using a hose clamp tool which broke after only the second use. Some of the hose clips are extremely awkward to get at, so after removing some and looking at the position of the vacuum pump which seems awkward to get at, I I decided to leave it. I don't want to make a mess of things and I'm not great with mechanics to be honest. I've called my local mechanic and he is happy enough to replace the vacuum pump, strip out the EGR cooler and give it to me for cleaning and then fit it again once I run it through the ultrasonic cleaner, which brings me on to my next point...

I was able to take off the EGR cooler and out it through the ultrasonic cleaner. I am pleased with the result. My original EGR valve looks a bit cleaner, so I've just stuck that back in again. I am fairly confident I could have got the thing brand new looking if I'd put it through a few more cycles and added more cleaning solution. Still,I am happy the way it is now. It'll get dirty in no time again anyway.

EGR pipe before:

EGR pipe after (really pleased the way this came out)

EGR valve before

EGR valve after

Once again, I am very confident I could make a better job with this if I put it in a few more times and had a better cleaning brush. Still, it came out well. You can clearly see the different once it's put back on the car.

Here they are in the cleaner. The 10l cleaner is the perfect size. The electronic part at the top is just above the water line.

 

[Jay at]

Okay well done on the cleaning it’s a good clean.You made the right choice to hand it to your mechanic as you haven’t done it before.Those clamps can be a bit tricky but everyday obstacles to a mechanic.
Viper weigh the EGR cooler before cleaning and after as accurately as you can as it’s the only way of determining how much carbon you have removed internally.I would give it a few cleans and flushes as well.You cannot see the inside.I have tried to see if there is any information on a new units weight but I didn’t pursue it.Keep me updated please.
I might just for the hell of it during lockdown do a carbon clean on a Mazda engine.The only thing is the inlet valves need to be closed properly as I clean them.You have to move a crank bolt to get the right position or walnut shells can go into the pistons.
My friendly mechanic is going to close for lockdown for a rest.Going to nag him to come to our workshop and show me how to do it.His been laughing at me and says he has to hold his trade secrets back from potential competitors.

 

[ViperGRM]

Oops! I made a bit of a booboo. Soon after the update with the pictures, I had to pop out for a short trip. On may way back, I noticed the heater wasn't working, then just before I got home, a high coolant temp warning popped up. As soon as this happened, I remember what I had missed. I forgot to attach the coolant hose on the bottom part of the EGR valve. The one that is quite awkward to remove and seemingly more awkward to put in (at least in my experience). I got everything reconnected and then started monitoring the coolant temp. It would still rise above 100c. I popped down to Tesco (in another car) and bought 2 litres of Prestone coolant. I had read in other forums that other Mazda owners had used them as the FL22 type doesn't seem to be readily available. My intention was to use this in the short term and get the coolant drained and refilled when leaving the car in for the EGR cooler removal. Anyway, I put a full 2 litres in the the radiator and still, the reservoir stayed at a low level. I'm not sure how long it takes for the coolant to flow into the reservoir once added to the radiator but either way, it didn't fix the issue. The heater still does not work and the coolant temp will rise to 100c. Once it gets around this number I tend to switch the engine off until it cools down enough for me to crawl home. Probably the most likely cause is that I lost almost all of the coolant because of my stupid mistake and the 2 litres I put in was nowhere near enough. The other possibility is that there is a hose I didn't reconnect elsehwere. I checked everywhere in the engine bay numerous times and the only coolant I could see was on the EGR exhaust where I forgot to connect the hose to the EGR valve. I'm guessing there is simply not enough coolant in the system but I cannot be sure.

I'm glad you mentioned about weighing the EGR cooler. That's a great idea. I think I read on the website of that place in Pontefract that they removed 200g of carbon from a cooler. That is a crazy amount! I bet mine isn't far off that

I'd be interested how you get on with the carbon clean. Good luck. Hope it works out for you!

 

[Jay at]

Much too little.You need approximately 4 litres.Keep filling the coolant to the very top and run the engine at idle for about 15 mins and keep topping up to replace expelled air while cap is off only then replace the cap.Bit of an adventure then.Remember you have lost from the pipe.Well that’s what your sensors are for 😀.No harm done.
Do not give up.

 

[ViperGRM]

Thanks Jay! I wasn't sure how much I lost but I guess with the tube off and driving around for 30 minutes then it probably just pissed out everywhere. I'll go get some more in the morning and do as you suggested. Cheers!

 

[NobbyMA]

Hi, sorry I'm new here.

I just want to ask, basically I have a Mazda 3 2016 2.2d. I also have the p0401 code on my car, it has only 40k miles but I do regularly use it in the city as I'm an Uber driver. My mpg is also pretty terrible with it being 30mpg in the city and 45mpg on the motorway. Which I find a bit ridiculous. So I plan on using lockdown to test apart my car and ultrasonic clean the parts.

I wanted to ask. Has the ultrasonic cleaning fixed your p0401 code viper? Also did you reuse the gaskets and what is your mpg doing now? Has it improved from the map sensor being cleaned? ( I plan on just buying a new sensor).

Nobby

 

[Jay at]

You are aware there are effectively 2 EGR valves on your engine.What you have cleaned is the standard EGR valve on the right hand side to it is the EGr by pass valve which is used to warm your engine when you first start the engine.Go to #39 conversation I downloaded from internet.The engine gases initially bypass the EGR to help engine go to optimum temperature and then allows gases through EGR cooler when engine is warm.
You can clean that as well 😃

 

[NobbyMA]

Hi yes I am aware of the bypass valve too. My plan of action was:

Map sensor replacement
Egr valve clean
Egr bypass valve clean
And that pipe too.

Hopefully it fixes my issue. But I'm also desperate to fix my fuel consumption too. If my egr problem isn't fixed, I'm going to rip out the whole system and the intake manifold for a good clean.

 

[Jay at]

Clean the MAP sensor as they are notorious for clogging up and about £70. If it needed replacing it would of fault coded.Then clean your MAF sensor.
Me and Viper have done this and if you read the posts there is lots of information.The MAP clean on my vehicle really helped.
Yes clean the EGR and bypass valve.
Before you jump onto the manifold remember the inlet valves can be cleaned as well and that may not be so so straight forward.Google the link given in the posts for the manifold removal.Here is one for valves as well

How to Clean Your Intake Valves | CorkSport Mazda Performance Blog

If you have a Mazdaspeed, then you have probably heard about cleaning your valves a time or two.

corksport.com

 

[ViperGRM]

My coolant issue is solved. Thanks again @Jay at . You were quite right. Pretty much all the coolant in my engine had gone. I bought another 2 litres of that Prestone coolant from Tesco (currently half price at £3 per litre) and filled tot he brim. The heat is working fine and no more temp issues. It seems to operate at a good level (around 85c) so maybe dumping this for the proper FL22 stuff would be a waste considering it cools the engine just fine. I'm not sure what is so special/unique about the Mazda FL22 coolant to be honest.

My car us booked in next Wednesday to get the vacuum pump replaced and also to remove the EGR cooler. I will take it home, clean it in the ultrasnsonic cleaner and then return it for fitting. I will be sure to weigh the cooler before/after to get an idea of the carbon build-up. Thanks!

 

[ViperGRM]

Clean the MAP sensor as they are notorious for clogging up and about £70. If it needed replacing it would of fault coded.Then clean your MAF sensor.
Me and Viper have done this and if you read the posts there is lots of information.The MAP clean on my vehicle really helped.

How to Clean Your Intake Valves | CorkSport Mazda Performance Blog

If you have a Mazdaspeed, then you have probably heard about cleaning your valves a time or two.

corksport.com

Yes, mine was absolutely foul @NobbyMA as you can see below. There is no possible way this could have been working. It was entirely blocked up.

@Jay at is it worth removing the DPF sensor and cleaning it? I'm always weary of playing with that as the last thing I want is the car throwing DPF errors. Thanks.

 

[NobbyMA]

I have the service manual if you guys want it in pdf. It's for the cx5. But it has the 2.2d engine which is the same across the range.

 

[ViperGRM]

Thanks @NobbyMA but think we have the same one as you. @Jay at posted a link to an online manual which is really handy to have too Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual

 

[Jay at]

DPF sensor will have pipes connected to it which are before and after the DPF to sense pressure difference.It’s unlikely the sensor is faulty but the pipes could block as they sit inside the exhaust however of not heard of this fault relating to your code.
Your car has relatively low mileage.Go for the earlier easier actions first and you can start eliminating things.Your code is very broad but not specific.On the boiler faults some codes said circulation which could of meant pump,pipe work,heat exchanger blocked etc. I would appraise by age,condition,common faults and the obvious.
It appears it could be your EGR but if your MAF is dirty it could throw a false read.If your MAP is blocked it can’t register the correct manifold pressure and both these reads tell the ECU to adjust your fuel mixture.If ECU thinks it must run a richer mixture then your fuel consumption will be high.
Go for the easier high priority jobs.Imagine stripping down an engine to find out later it was a 5 minute MAF clean.We got 4 weeks lockdown no rush.
Viper buddy can bring some information soon and hopefully give more direction.
Unfortunately with emissions legislation we cannot escape carbon build up in modern engines.
We can try an Italian service and boot the engine on the motorway as it will shift carbon but will also build up in the DPF.
My buddy in the car car trade did it as part of a service for town drivers.