[BotleRocketWar]

Hmm... I also have a 2004 6S. It came with two remotes, each with batteries that had been dead for months, if not years.

The dealer informed me, after checking to make sure they worked, that they need to reprogram them. This reprogram is not something an individual can do, not with the stock remotes at least. They wanted $80 to reprogram the remotes on my car, and were confident that it's a difficult process and their special equipment is required for it to work.

Not good.

 

[detroittigers02]

don't take it to the dealer. I am having this same problem, 2 of the remotes I got with the car didnt work and one i ordered on ebay didnt work. I used my friends remote today, and was able to program it the first time using the 11 step method found all over these forums. The dealer wanted to charge me 50 bucks to tell me the remotes didnt work. needless to say, i sent my remote back to the ebay seller....

 

[alissa]

don't take it to the dealer. I am having this same problem, 2 of the remotes I got with the car didnt work and one i ordered on ebay didnt work. I used my friends remote today, and was able to program it the first time using the 11 step method found all over these forums. The dealer wanted to charge me 50 bucks to tell me the remotes didnt work. needless to say, i sent my remote back to the ebay seller....

i have a 2004 mazda 6 and my remotes are doing the same thing. do you know what kind of remote you finally got to work for yours? i dont know if i could just buy one off ebay or if it has to be a certain kind.

 

[1sdposer]

2003-04 Mazda 6 REMOTE PROGRAMMING


Step 1: Open drivers door and leave open.

Step 2: Lock and unlock the driver’s door using the power door lock switch on the door.

Step 3: Insert key into the ignition.

Step 4: Turn key to on position and return to off position. (IMPORTANT - use ON position NOT ACC position). Do this 3 times within 10 seconds. Leave key in the ignition.

Step 5: Open and close the driver’s door 3 times. (Door should be left open after this step).

Step 6: ECU should respond by locking and unlocking the doors.

Step 7: Press any button on remote #1 twice. ECU responds by locking and unlocking the car doors.

Step 8: Press any button on remote #2 (etc.) twice. Each time the ECU will respond by locking & unlocking the doors.

Step 9: Remove the key from the ignition and the ECU will respond a final time with a series of door locks and unlocks. You're done!

THANK YOU Shadow2! My 06 Speed6 keyless fob stopped working and when I read this it started working again, the only thing is the RED key indicator light is still blinking when door is locked and alarm armed.
Any suggestions on what this is about?

 

[delorean004]

Try pressing Lock once, instead of unlock twice

Hey guys, I know this thread is a bit old, but I'm sure someone will find this info helpful sooner or later. I had this same problem, after I bought a new car for my wife and I started driving her 6. It's a 2004 sedan model and she never had keyless for it. I bought a Key fob off of amazon and I tried programming it today following the instructions it came with and the one provided here (both similar, both didn't work). I tried several times, failed, and did some more research. After I spent a good hour or so trying to find out why a lot of us were having this problem, I went back and tried again. This time, however, instead of pushing Unlock twice, like the instructions suggest, I pressed LOCK one time. Voila! So for whoever is still trying to get this to work, try pressing LOCK one time instead of the unlock version. Hope this helps!

 

[Kcrew_44]

Please Clarify

Can you clarify which step you are referring to. I have tried reprograming two new remotes with no luck.

 

[Crob56]

I just bought a 2005 mazda 6 and when i hit the lock on the fob the rear doors lock/unlock, but the front doors seem to not have enough "oumph" to actually flip the lock, any suggestions?

 

[candi-zoomzoom]

Hi, sorry to open up an old thread...did you fix the issue? Was it the reciever that needed replacing or the key fob?
My mazda atenza key fob use to work, then it only worked some of the time, now it isn't working at all. It makes the clicking noise but nothing happens.
Even when I try to lock & unlock all the doors with the main drivers door lock on the inside door handle, nothing happens to the others door locks. So I have to lock & unlock each door & the boot manually.
Does anyone know what the problem could be? I have a list, in order of what I think is the priority:
1- the Reciever/ module not picking up a signal & needs replacing.
2- the drivers door lock actuator "motor or cog" needs replacing (or fixing: U-tube videos)
3- Key fob needs replacing & programing.
4- Fuses need checking.
5- Car battery terminals need cleaning.

I tried the 11 step programing for the existing key fob but nothing improves. Besides I don't think it needs programing since it use to work before. ( One other weird thing, which happens on my friends mazda 6 as well, is that sometimes when we turn the key on to start the car, the drivers side wing mirror folds backward/outward. We have to manually pull it back to position because pressing the button for it on the door only causes both mirrors to fold toward us, & pressing the button again causes the passenger mirror to move back into the correct position, but the drivers side doesnt stay in place. It folds back outwards again.

So I'm wandering if there is a machanical problem somewhere causing both poles with the door locks & the mirror! I've had enough with this car, & any help would be appreciated.

 

[ian16th]

This forum lives on.

I have a 2007 South African specification Mazda 6 2.3l. I bought the car new, so know its history.

On Wednesday I was driving it in torrential rain.

When I parked, under cover but in the open air, the remote central locking wouldn't work.
Locking the car with the key in the drivers door lock, locked the car but the direction indicators did not flash.
I initially suspected water/damp ingress.
After parking my car overnight in my dry garage, the remote locking operated normally.
But since then it has become randomly intermittent in its operation.

Seeing as things sometimes operate, I rule out coding problems.

I'm willing to listen to all suggestions for diagnostic idea's.

 

[HerronScott]

Do you have a sunroof? Perhaps look at clogged drains and I thought I had seen posts related to that possibly leading to water getting to the BCM.


Scott

 

[Sylvester]

Has anyone replaced the receiver in the back bumper and resolved this issue? I have an original Mazda key fob from my Mazda3 hatch (2005) as long as a "new" fob from Amazon. Neither will work with the programming instructions. The car responds to the programming mode by locking/unlocking. I've even gone into the diagnostic mode where the horn honks/all doors lock/unlock, so the system is functional, just can't seem to get the fobs to work.

My next guess is the sensor in the back bumper. So, has anyone replaced this and solved the issue? My local dealer wants $205 to diagnos the problem! Haha, SAN Francisco prices.

 

[DrFeelGood]

Ketless entry stopped functioning with LED door light replacement.

I recently had a fault with the keyless entry system. My symptoms were, not being able to use the remote entry (keyfob clicker thingy) to open the doors consistently. I would click to unlock and it would work but when I clicked twice it would only respond once and unlock the drivers door. When leaving the car I would close the door and push to lock with no response. When I waited a bit it would work but only once. It was not possible to click twice to get the "honk" confirmation.

It appeared to happen suddenly and sporadically but it never seemed to work when I needed it to.

The failure of the keyless entry coincided with the installation of some Chinese "Mazda Logo" courtesy lights. I know what you are thinking, "who would want that?" but, in my defense they were dirt cheap and I may or may not have ordered them after some dinner libation...maybe. Anyhow, I forgot about them and they showed up sever months later.

Shortly after installing them was when the trouble began. Apparently when the light is illuminated (immediately after closing the door or after the first click to unlock) there is some sort of interference that disables the radio receiver for the keyless entry.


Taking them out was easy enough but I am curious, does anyone know what specifically is causing this or a way of negating the effect? I wonder if LED bulbs would cause the same issues...


Thanks for reading.

 

[tickerguy]

RFI from cheap garbage LEDs definitely can do this. Most of these Chinese things are nowhere near FCC compliant and produce an insane amount of "hash" both on the power bus and via RF; both can play hell with anything that has a low-level RF receiver in it in the immediate vicinity, which keyless entry and start require.

I have an amusing similar situation -- I own a cell charger that when plugged into the console lighter socket (which is switched) *and* the phone the car's keyless system is interfered with; the LED on the start button flashes instead of being on solid when I press the clutch, and unless you catch it right when the green LED is lit it will not start. If the phone is not plugged in (even if the adapter is), no problem. Same deal. Needless to say that particular charger got relegated to a different vehicle.

 

[waughoo]

This has come up in VHF radio transmissions in boats and ships. The LED light engine produces RFI that is significant enough to interfere with emergency broadcasts. It has become significant enough that the coast guard has put out a bulletin notifying mariners and asked them to report known instances.

 

[b1lk1]

Buy chinese garbage get chinese garbage.


They may be far better than they used to be, but it is all still garbage.

 

[DrFeelGood]

This all makes sense. Thanks everyone for your replies. Interesting tidbit @waughoo about the maritime implications.