[TiGraySpeed6]

The one good pic I knew of is gone now. I found a crappy one tho, and these should be your requested dimensions. I've also attached one for the cam tool.

A - 38.55
B - 5
C - 26
D - 12.55


The whole timing procedure for this engine is crappy and there are a dozen points in the process where things can go sideways.

There have been a few different arguments made about using just an M10 bolt ~60 mm long is better/worse/exactly the same as using the 303-507 peg. The issue is that the tip diameter of the peg -vs- the tip diameter of a bolt could alter true TDC, but I've seen very skilled mechanics with multiple rebuilds of this engine use a degree wheel and verify there was no change to TDC between the two.

I dunno- have no opinion here.

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

So you can have a sense of what's happening, here's a peg and a bolt in position

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

Yuppers-
slowly rotate and the spoke with the hole should end up at 6:00, lined up with the threaded hole in the timing cover which would be used with an M6 bolt to help hold the pulley while you torqued the crank bolt- which you don't need to do, but it's a way to double check.

You should also see the crank position sensor lined up with the 20th tooth on the pulley.

 

[TiGraySpeed6]

Yup.
Those are taken from the Mazda OEM plate, pic of oem plate below for reference.

I've also added a pic of a custom cut plate, in use, so you can see it situated for context. This one is all one thickness. Most important thing is that it's tight in the cams- you should have to literally tap it into place. I can't stress enough that you don't want them to move. Note that both outside edges, indeed much of the tool, rests on the head for support.