Reading Topic: Amp power cable routing

If you look down in the engine compartment, I'm sure there'll be an unused hole there. Just match up a grommet and you'll be set. Just make sure it's big enough, of course.

 

Reading Topic: Amp power cable routing

I drilled just to the right (from inside the car) of the main harness. I don't think there was a terrible lot of room there, so if you're running some huge 0ga wire or something you may have to find another spot. But there's room for an 8ga or maybe even 4ga...

 

Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

QUOTE

Posted by jrsy91gmc

I drilled just to the right (from inside the car) of the main harness.[/b]

Thanks for the replies. I haven't had a chance to check if there are any "unused holes," but jrsy91gmc, I know where you're referring to. I'm wondering, did you drill from engine side into firewall, or passenger compartment into engine area? (I'm assuming that "from the inside of the car" is just a right-left reference, and not necessarily the direction you drilled.)

 

Reading Topic: Amp power cable routing

I always wondered this too..where is everyone running their power wire. Im planning on going with 0 gauge just to simplify upgrades later on, but I have no idea how I am going to get it to the engine bay. I tried looking for unused holes, but couldn't find any(mayb I didnt try hard enough).

I think its easier to drill holes from inside the car into the engine bay, since it seems that there is more room to work with when you are doing it this way.

 

Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

Well, that was a right-left reference, but I did drill from inside. The hole is kinda shrouded by the brake booster, master cylinder, etc, so there wasn't really room to get a drill in from the engine side, but it's no problem to get to it to feed the wire through...

I don't know if there's enough metal there to drill a hole for 0ga... that's big stuff...

 

Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

QUOTE

Originally posted by jrsy91gmc


            Well, that was a right-left reference, but I did drill from inside.  The hole is kinda shrouded by the brake booster, master cylinder, etc, so there wasn't really room to get a drill in from the engine side, but it's no problem to get to it to feed the wire through...

I don't know if there's enough metal there to drill a hole for 0ga... that's big stuff...[/b]

I'll be doing the install (or at least some of it) on Saturday...unlike 5o4m6, I'm only using 8 ga., so I don't think there will be a problem. Thanks.

 

Reading Topic: Amp power cable routing

I don't feel like making another topic, so Im going to post another question (since the topic question seem to be answered already).

How many feet of wire do I need to buy in order to run it from the battery to the trunk area. I tried a measuring tape and guess the length, but I don't want to have too much left over(0 gauge can get pretty expensive). Will 20ft(this includes the negative ground too) be sufficient?

 

Reading Topic: Amp power cable routing

I did answer this question before but I will reiterate anyway....you do not have to drill a hole to enter the passenger compartment from the engine bay. There is a thick black boot located under the dash close to where the steering column passes through the firewall. All you have to do is unseat that boot....you will now have a hole big enough for 1G wire if you wanted it.

There are two options you can do to keep the wire from rubbing raw agaist the frame, you can do what I did: get some heat shrink run the wire through it and heat shrink it at the point where the wire passes through the firewall...then cut a notch on the outer edge of the boot to allow the boot to reseat, or you can just trust the insulation on the power wire to hold. Its best to isolate the power wire from vibration on both sides of the firewall through the use of plenty of tie wraps.

 

Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

QUOTE

Posted by diesel5599

I did answer this question before but I will reiterate anyway....you do not have to drill a hole to enter the passenger compartment from the engine bay. There is a thick black boot located under the dash close to where the steering column passes through the firewall. All you have to do is unseat that boot....you will now have a hole big enough for 1G wire if you wanted it.  
 
There are two options you can do to keep the wire from rubbing raw agaist the frame, you can do what I did: get some heat shrink run the wire through it and heat shrink it at the point where the wire passes through the firewall...then cut a notch on the outer edge of the boot to allow the boot to reseat, or you can just trust the insulation on the power wire to hold.  Its best to isolate the power wire from vibration on both sides of the firewall through the use of plenty of tie wraps.[/b]

I understand exactly what you are describing, but I'd be concerned that no matter how well you immobilize the cable, there's going to be constant pressure of the metal firewall against whatever soft insulation you are relying on, whether it's the cable's own insulation or heat shrink. (And heat shrink would be NO barrier at all to a metal edge rubbing through it--that's certainly not its intended function.) Anyway, the point I'm making is that even though it appears that you've tied the cable down so it can't move, there's still going to be extremely small movement of the firewall's edge against the cable and insulation. Even if it would take months/years to wear through, it's just a nasty mess waiting to happen. Would any fuse blow fast enough to prevent damage? As hesitant as I am about drilling, I think that's what I'm going to do. I appreciate your input, though.

 

Reading Topic: Amp power cable routing

Well I had the same setup in my last car for 3yrs....when I pulled it out before selling it the only thing worn on the cable was the white lettering (I didn't even have heat shrink on that one), but to each his own. There's plenty that can be done in addition to the heat shrink such as apply electrical tape to the metal edge.

 

Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

QUOTE

Posted by diesel5599

Well I had the same setup in my last car for 3yrs....when I pulled it out before selling it the only thing worn on the cable was the white lettering (I didn't even have heat shrink on that one), but to each his own. There's plenty that can be done in addition to the heat shrink such as apply electrical tape to the metal edge.[/b]

Point well taken. Who knows, when I've crawled up under the dash with my drill and I'm about to pull the trigger, maybe I'll wuss out and do it your way. I'll let you know.

 

Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

QUOTE

Originally posted by 5o4m6
How many feet of wire do I need to buy in order to run it from the battery to the trunk area.  I tried a measuring tape and guess the length, but I don't want to have too much left over(0 gauge can get pretty expensive).  Will 20ft(this includes the negative ground too) be sufficient?[/b]

I think I bought 17 feet...

Now I was running 8 ga, and I bought 3 feet of ground too... so that puts me at 20feet with a little thinner wire (may or may not make much difference)...

If you want a better estimate, get a piece of rope and mock up your install, then mark the stop point and measure the rope... that'll let you account for all the little twists and turns, since you can actually run the rope under the door sills and such, just like the real wire...

 

Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

Well, I think I can put this "issue" to rest. There is NO problem going between the main harness' grommet and the firewall, because there is NO sharp edge at all--the hole has a lip around it, like a flange, so the metal is smooth without even a sharp edge. Just to be sure, I put a small piece of garden hose between the metal and the cable. I was very relieved to not have to drill....

 

Reading Topic: Amp power cable routing

So I have another believer on this thing

Re: wire length

I think I just bought a generic amp wiring kit, it comes with 20' of power wire. I also connected a 1.5' section of industrial grade ground wire from the neg on the battery to the frame. I would have done something fancier like run custom sized separate power wires to each amp, fused distro, etc, but having to connect to a factory HU kind of spoiled the fun.

 

Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

QUOTE

Posted by diesel5599

So I have another believer on this thing  
 [/b]

:sarc

 

Reading Topic: Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

A long time ago this same subject was raised and when I suggested using the grommet hole, most people seemed to think the wire would be rubbed raw within weeks.

 

Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

QUOTE

Posted by diesel5599

A long time ago this same subject was raised and when I suggested using the grommet hole, most people seemed to think the wire would be rubbed raw within weeks.[/b]

...and so did I until I actually saw and felt the edge of the cutout...you could have saved yourself some grief by explaining to the non-believers how the edge of the cutout is flanged. I was expecting a rough edge myself.

Regards

 

Reading Topic: Replying to Topic 'Amp power cable routing'

No grief here I let the non believers just drill their holes or continue disbelieving. I've been playing in the car audio field for over 10yrs now, I certainly would not do anything to jeopardize my system or suggest something that would jeopardize others..at least not without warning them of the risks first.

 

Hi I've just fitted an amp power cable through the bonnet catch cable grommet on the right of the driver's side door well (mazda 2 2016). It's fiddly, but I pushed loads of cable through the hole (pushing the rubber grommet to the side) then popped 3 outside plastic wheel arch cover studs (no need to take off wheel) and I was able to just pull the wheel arch covers back a bit and there was the red cable dangling down. I threaded it carefully into the engine bay and routed it to the battery, away from engine using cable ties. Make sure you pull the cable tight in the wheel arch because you don't want it snagging anything. The studs for the wheel arch plastic covers are easy to put back. Make sure you plug up the hole the cable goes through in the door well with a bit of putty to stop leaks.