[Donkey Grundle]

@tickerguy is doing a great job with all of this data, so I'll add mine:

After removing the K&N intake and reinstalling the OE airbox, my instances of exclaiming "fuck this piece of shit car" while the engine bogged from a stop went down significantly. The reduction of instant torque due to the hot engine bay air getting pulled in initially is hell for MTX drivers.

 

[Zeffer]

@tickerguy is doing a great job with all of this data, so I'll add mine:

After removing the K&N intake and reinstalling the OE airbox, my instances of exclaiming "fuck this piece of shit car" while the engine bogged from a stop went down significantly. The reduction of instant torque due to the hot engine bay air getting pulled in initially is hell for MTX drivers.

Oh god, so much this. Not the bogging, but the exclamation. I'm fairly handy, but when I run into a snag I get stuck on, it's always that. "F**k this bullshit dumpster fire of a car."

On the bogging, never had the issue with an AT transmission, even in sunny Florida in 100 degree days. It would go whenever I asked it to.

 

[tickerguy]

The AT masks the seat of the pants feeling, but not the impact on your acceleration times.

There's nothing like sucking a big chunk of 150F air down the intake to screw you; the ECU instantly pulls timing (if it didn't you'd blow a hole in a piston from detonation!) and there goes the torque.

 

[Zeffer]

I was thinking it'd be a more numb drive. I floor it all the time. I don't drive like a dick, but when I can get on it, I will. Haven't noticed any changes in acceleration, except for today.

You know how when you press the mechanical kickdown, it raises the rev limiter? Mine was hesitating at the top of the range. It would pause as if unsure, and then rev up again. Strange. It was 50 degrees out too.

 

[tickerguy]

It's 50F out but it's 120F (or more) in the engine bay..... especially if you're in the city (e.g. not moving fast enough to turn over the air in the engine bay quickly.) The air in the engine bay has passed through the radiator and of course the job of the radiator is to take the heat in the coolant and transfer it to the.... air!

BTW there is no "mechanical" kick-down on these cars. AT vehicles have a fake "kick down" detent at the bottom of accelerator pedal travel but it isn't wired to anything. The ECU does read the last few percent (beyond the detent) however, as "downshift if RPMs are safe to do so". MT cars do not have the faux detent "switch."

 

[Zeffer]

It's 50F out but it's 120F (or more) in the engine bay..... especially if you're in the city (e.g. not moving fast enough to turn over the air in the engine bay quickly.) The air in the engine bay has passed through the radiator and of course the job of the radiator is to take the heat in the coolant and transfer it to the.... air!

BTW there is no "mechanical" kick-down on these cars. AT vehicles have a fake "kick down" detent at the bottom of accelerator pedal travel but it isn't wired to anything. The ECU does read the last few percent (beyond the detent) however, as "downshift if RPMs are safe to do so". MT cars do not have the faux detent "switch."

Well, naturally. I'm pulling cold air from three inlets: factory + two more, with heat shielding. I don't think it's a temperature issue. This was also while cruising back roads.

What else is it called? It's a physical kickdown. This is my first A/T vehicle with a kickdown, and in our 6, it downshifts to the lowest gear possible, and raises your rev limiter (or at least shifts later) as long as it's held down.

My issue was that, while pedal to the metal, when it hit that rev limit, it hesitated, then continued to gas. A similar effect to the fuel being cut, rather than being starved for air.

 

[my95tsi]

I really wish there was more knowledge out there from the general public on SRI's. The public is broken up into three groups.

1.) Those that know the truth and wouldn't touch one if it was given to them for free. 2.) Those that know they are getting robbed performance but don't care because they like the sound. 3.) Those that swear their car is faster because of their SRI (this group is the most frustrating because their butt dunno is way off). I also swear that the last group are paid moles by K&N themselves.

The reality is these things are completely pointless in modern cars and do absolutely nothing other than offer a really cool sound upon acceleration. I've been a part of over a dozen car forums in the last 10 years and each forum has people that fall into these groups. However cars that are more performance oriented usually have more group one followers where cars such as the Mazda 6 that don't have a lot of upgrade options usually have more group two and three followers.


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[Zeffer]

I really wish there was more knowledge out there from the general public on SRI's. The public is broken up into three groups.

1.) Those that know the truth and wouldn't touch one if it was given to them for free. 2.) Those that know they are getting robbed performance but don't care because they like the sound. 3.) Those that swear their car is faster because of their SRI (this group is the most frustrating because their butt dunno is way off). I also swear that the last group are paid moles by K&N themselves.

The reality is these things are completely pointless in modern cars and do absolutely nothing other than offer a really cool sound upon acceleration. I've been a part of over a dozen car forums in the last 10 years and each forum has people that fall into these groups. However cars that are more performance oriented usually have more group one followers where cars such as the Mazda 6 that don't have a lot of upgrade options usually have more group two and three followers.


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Heheh, guilty of being a part of group two. If there wasn't such a fun factor attached to the sound, I wouldn't have one either.

 

[jcme0557]

Its funny how different people can perceive the same thing in radically different ways, isn't it?

I've run K&N intake products on many cars that I've owned and have had all three of my95tsi's impressions. I had a GTI where the intake actually degraded low end performance (actually not a K&N product, btw) - but this wasn't noticeable until I switched back to the stock box. I've had cars where the intake didn't seem to do anything but make noise. And I've had cars where the intake "seemed" to enhance performance on the top end. My M6 is one of those cars, seeming to pull stronger from 4k on up with the K&N intake on vs. the stock box.

I'm open to the idea that what I'm feeling may not, in fact, be what's happening...but, has anyone actually run back to back dyno sessions (stock box vs. K&N) on a 3rd gen M6? The only one I've ever seen is the one published by K&N.

 

[johnykalbo]

This discussion is frustrating to read, especially since i just purchased a SRI. I hope I can afford to dyno it and put this to rest at-least for myself.

 

[my95tsi]

Zeffer's Product Review: K&N Short Ram Intake

This discussion is frustrating to read, especially since i just purchased a SRI. I hope I can afford to dyno it and put this to rest at-least for myself.

Dynoing your car after an SRI install is like taking your car for a new top speed run after adding a rear spoiler. If you do see any power increase, maybe 2-5 horsepower it won't translate to the real world.

You would need to do 4 dyno runs to make any claims. One with stock intake on cool day, one with stock intake on hot day, one with SRI intake on a cool day and one with SRI intake on a hot day. I'm willing to bet any amount of money that the stock intake will beat out the CAI in both categories. Adding a heat shield or some tubing below won't make a lick of a difference. Anyone that feels any type of change in power after a SRI install is delusional. The mind and body will play tricks on you when your ears hear something they are not used to.

As much as I don't recommend it, if you really are that dead set on having a "cool sound" you're better off drilling some holes into your stock intake box than you are buy a SRI.


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[Mason1019]

Ok...my question is in all this.... does this all apply to the CAI? When I bought my car i got the Corksport SRI and was getting bad heatsoak. So I pulled it of and put on an Injen CAI.... there was a night and day difference..and I'll admit I love the growl.

Im in sales and when i get stuck doing the city driving I notice my car getting pissed and loud and laggy from a stop...BUT i DO notice the "butt dyno" gains above 3-4K RPM's

I love reading what you all post on this and I learn a lot from you guys.... so Id love to hear your opinion.

 

[tickerguy]

As much as I don't recommend it, if you really are that dead set on having a "cool sound" you're better off drilling some holes into your stock intake box than you are buy a SRI.

There's no need to drill anything. Just remove the snorkel and intake resonator. It comes right off the stock airbox/filter assembly.

You'll get some of the sound but you'll also get all the hot air, so yeah, it's a net negative -- but at least it's a non-destructive modification that costs zero and can be put back in about 15 minutes when you figure it out without anything evaporating out of your wallet.

 

[my95tsi]

Ok...my question is in all this.... does this all apply to the CAI? When I bought my car i got the Corksport SRI and was getting bad heatsoak. So I pulled it of and put on an Injen CAI.... there was a night and day difference..and I'll admit I love the growl.

Im in sales and when i get stuck doing the city driving I notice my car getting pissed and loud and laggy from a stop...BUT i DO notice the "butt dyno" gains above 3-4K RPM's

I love reading what you all post on this and I learn a lot from you guys.... so Id love to hear your opinion.

You're much better off going this route but I really hope you have the Injen made hydro sleeve over the air filter that protects the air filter from potential water intake. I had a friend hydrolock his engine with his CAI during a big rainstorm with all plastic shielding on his car fully intact. Definitely not a risk I'd be willing to take.


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[johnykalbo]

I live in a sub tropical area so there are no cold or even cool days, so only before and after one time. Hope I can get a good price to do it.One seller here guarantee 3 to5 whp gain, but I bought mine used.from the states.

 

[Mason1019]

You're much better off going this route but I really hope you have the Injen made hydro sleeve over the air filter that protects the air filter from potential water intake. I had a friend hydrolock his engine with his CAI during a big rainstorm with all plastic shielding on his car fully intact. Definitely not a risk I'd be willing to take.


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Yes a pretty blue one

 

[DragginFrame]

Did you have to go through all the hassle due to the CELs?

 

[carlover6]

The corksport box helps some with their SRI. When I get time I want to switch back to stock and see the difference in IAT's since the flow isn't any better than stock.

 

[jcme0557]

This discussion is frustrating to read, especially since i just purchased a SRI. I hope I can afford to dyno it and put this to rest at-least for myself.

Don't be frustrated. Intake threads are like oil threads. Folks get really worked up in support of their point of view...but, you never seem to ever get to a definitive conclusion. And, that's just fine. Life's like that.

If you don't your intake or it doesn't seem to do what you wanted (or hoped) it would do, take it off and sell it on ebay.

If you feel like you're going faster or pulling harder or if you don't but just dig the sound...enjoy! Don't let anyone define your happiness.
:smile2:

 

[Red2016GT]

I'm curious about the data you've mentioned! To state that filter A allows more dirt than filter B would require controlled testing of each. One would need the same amount of particulates and dirt and dust, thrown in a wind tunnel, sent through the filters, to see if one or the other accepts more or less dirt. All filters let through some amount of dirt; in fact, brand new paper filters for OEM require a certain amount of dirt in order to work properly. I would imagine a well maintained cone filter would do the same, being made from similar materials. An open element cone filter gets maintained and replaced just the same as a regular filter would.

Since you say you have the data I'm very curious about it! I'd hate to purposefully damage the vehicle, as you claim it can.

Engineering explained just did a air filter test.
I would be taking that KN filter off if it was my engine.
Check it out on youtube.