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To kick off the series, let's get right into that good-good.

"Coilovers are like high heels. Women look great in high heels, but ask them how comfortable they are."

BC Racing BR Coilover Suspension

What is this product?
BC Racing is one of many companies offering a coilover suspension system for our cars. A coilover suspension is designed with adjustability and performance in mind. Through a series of locking collars, an owner can adjust suspension/vehicle height and spring preload, along with change out spring and shock rates for a full range of customization. Alternatives to BC are RS-R, AutoExe, Knightsports, and various other no-name brands.

What's nice?
I've had the coilovers for a few thousand miles as of writing this post. Out of the box, they look and feel gorgeous and sturdy. I would not worry about build quality with these. Everything was packaged nicely. Install will be touched on later. With 32 levels of adjustable dampening, one can truly tune the car to float around and get tossed in corners, or tighten it up and feel the crispness of reduced body roll. This adjustment can be made directly underhood. In addition, the front plates can be adjusted for camber. The stock springs can be easily swapped out for 65mm Swift Springs for increased comfort and driveability.

What's not nice?
Their stock drop isn't very low, as in, not what you would expect out of a thousand dollar coilover setup. If you're just looking for low, Corksport or H&R springs will give you low. However, this can be corrected with alternate springs. It is not suggested to buy the Swift Spring upgrade, as you may not get the height you want stock. Other points of notice is that not everything is torqued from the factory (in my experience). Be sure to check your top nuts on the front coilovers. Also, the locking collars are haphazardly set. Make sure you measure and adjust during install. For the camber, one cannot use the full range of adjustment due to little clearance on the top mount point. Not BC's fault, but their camber plates are basically parts bin plates. Along with that, camber cannot be adjusted without completely taking out the coilover from the top. The rear shock dampening cannot be adjusted without jacking up the car, or even removing the wheel depending on how low one is. Lastly, the front brake lines don't mount to the coilover. The metal is forged too thick and requires zip ties.

Ease of install:
Easily done by the average DIYer. Will take probably four to six hours overall. I would say thirty minutes per front corner, 20 minutes per rear corner for an experienced DIYer. I would allot a half day to full day for someone who has never done coilovers before. Making sure everything's tight, test driving, height adjusting, camber adjusting, etc, is all time consuming. If one wishes to get to any level of dumped status, it's best to just slam your camber negative as far as possible, and get it aligned later. Clearance and all that. During install, I found that these things are very finicky with torque specs and tight collars. Take your time and go slow, and no issue.

Randomly, one of my top nuts worked its way loose while I was adjusting the collars for the spring on the passenger front. Added an hour and a half to that job, but haven't run into issue since.

Overall, these are excellent coilovers. Despite the long list of what's not nice, all of that can be worked through. After riding on the coils for a while, I don't have any regular issues. They don't require regular maintenance to me outside of cleaning them and spraying out the collars with air. I have my height set and I'm happy with where it's at. I would recommend these coilovers to a friend, but only because they're an American based company that'll allow you to get replacement parts easier than from, say, AutoExe or RS-R.

Drop photos for reference. These are considered very low as far as coilover setup goes. There's no finger gap horizontally; if you stick your finger in my fenders, it'll be at a 45 degree angle up:

 

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Lastly, the front brake lines don't mount to the coilover. The metal is forged too thick and requires zip ties.
I just got these coilovers yesterday and put them on (front only so far, didn't have time to put the rears on). But I had the same problem, I just took a file and widened the hole a bit and was able to put the line inside. once inside the factory locking clip slid on and locked it perfectly.

So it was not the thick metal in my case but just the hole was too small.

Could have used a dremel with a sanding drum as well.

But... I did manage to break one of the little plastic clips holding the abs speed sensor to the shock so that I had to zip tie. Seems like that part is not available for purchase separately as well. Just the whole assembly which costs ~$40 (Part # B45A4370XA). So best to be careful & patient with the plastic parts.
 

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I've had a set of BR coilovers installed for months now. Good quality, car looks good, BUT They are NOISY!!!!!!

After weeks on end of troubleshooting with BC Racing tech support in which they replaced even the shock bodies, the noises continued. I even upgraded the end links, and still. I started questioning my install, so I took the car to a local racing shop. After paying a fee they confirmed that there were no loose components and everything was properly torqued. So my installation was on point.

HERE'S THE CULPRIT: BCR employs standard (metal-on-metal) pillowtops. That means that as the shock flexes over bumps and road imperfections, the metal components meet on the return cycle. This causes the SUPER ANNOYING old-car knocking sound coming from the top corners. I couldn't believe it. I even spent on a HD action camera to film the top nut to see if it would move up and down while driving (it didn't).

I know that coilovers are noisier than stock, but not like what I have been experiencing. For example my brother has a set of basic Megan Racing coilovers on his car and the ride is MUCH quieter than mine. SO at this point I'm considering buying a set of H&Rs (Coilover Kit 28824-1 for Mazda 6).
 

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I've had a set of BR coilovers installed for months now. Good quality, car looks good, BUT They are NOISY!!!!!!

After weeks on end of troubleshooting with BC Racing tech support in which they replaced even the shock bodies, the noises continued. I even upgraded the end links, and still. I started questioning my install, so I took the car to a local racing shop. After paying a fee they confirmed that there were no loose components and everything was properly torqued. So my installation was on point.

HERE'S THE CULPRIT: BCR employs standard (metal-on-metal) pillowtops. That means that as the shock flexes over bumps and road imperfections, the metal components meet on the return cycle. This causes the SUPER ANNOYING old-car knocking sound coming from the top corners. I couldn't believe it. I even spent on a HD action camera to film the top nut to see if it would move up and down while driving (it didn't).

I know that coilovers are noisier than stock, but not like what I have been experiencing. For example my brother has a set of basic Megan Racing coilovers on his car and the ride is MUCH quieter than mine. SO at this point I'm considering buying a set of H&Rs (Coilover Kit 28824-1 for Mazda 6).
Are you getting noise from the front and/or rears?

I would double check the sway bar links since they can appear to be tight depending on how the suspension is pushing on it and may not allow you to thread the nut all the way.

I had the noise problem on the passenger rear.
 

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I replaced the suspension back to stock, hoping to hear something... Nothing. Muted ride as new. I re-installed the BCRs and the noises came back. That was last weekend. Noise is from top front corners over small and big road imperfections. However, the rears get a big clunk when going over larger bumps at speed.

I talked to BCR today. They asked me to send pictures and videos. They think it may be the bearing casing going bad. I'm not sure.
 

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I replaced the suspension back to stock, hoping to hear something... Nothing. Muted ride as new. I re-installed the BCRs and the noises came back. That was last weekend. Noise is from top front corners over small and big road imperfections. However, the rears get a big clunk when going over larger bumps at speed.

I talked to BCR today. They asked me to send pictures and videos. They think it may be the bearing casing going bad. I'm not sure.
Keep us updated if you find out a cause, I'm gonna be taking out the fronts next week to put smaller springs, hope everything stays noise free.

Also, I know you said you filmed the top nut and it didn't move but did you try tightening it down?
 

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Yep, will keep you updated. As far as the top nut it is TIGHT. I even used a low impact and it is definitively secured in place.
 

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Ok, Probably the last update I may do for a while on the coilovers, here's some information to add to Zeffer's original review.

I bought shorter Swift Springs, went from BC's 7.87" (200mm) 62mm ID 7k to 6" (152mm) 65mm ID9k.
Set with 4mm preload, no camber adjustment.

First I put all collars together (as low as possible) but realized that the bottom of the shock cartridge makes contact with the cv boot. Raised it 4mm, the width of the socket, and looks good through the whole suspension range now.

Also, one of the pictures you can see the top of the shock cartridge after installing the 6" springs, notice there is no more thread available to put shorter springs, so with the stock BC cartridges this is as low as you are going.

Forgot to take pictures of how it sits now, will do that later and post them here.
 

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Zeffer, any updates? I have heard good things about BC initially but then lots of not so good, particularly about the springs breaking on an M3 coilover set and them rusting out in salted enviroments. Is there any other good choices out there? I am not looking for slammed as it's a terrible idea for where I live, just good performance.
 

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Zeffer, any updates? I have heard good things about BC initially but then lots of not so good, particularly about the springs breaking on an M3 coilover set and them rusting out in salted enviroments. Is there any other good choices out there? I am not looking for slammed as it's a terrible idea for where I live, just good performance.


I’m pretty sure he took these off in favor for an air set up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I mean if you cannot go as low as corksport with these coilovers without buying their recommended springs whats the point? You just wasted money

Youre better off just buying springs and even the corksport shock would be a better and less hassle like setup than this. Install, align, boom forget. Better yet with koni yellows.

With this you have to what tighten screws and what not? Lube the coilovers? Too much shit plus

These coilover may cost the same as buying springs and koni shocks but that doesnt mean is the same or better quality. The simple fact that they are just as cheap as buying 2 parts is not a good sign.

They are lower quality that a corksport/hnr and kony setup and that’s a fact. A comparable quality coilover would be $2000
 

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I mean if you cannot go as low as corksport with these coilovers without buying their recommended springs whats the point? You just wasted money

Youre better off just buying springs and even the corksport shock would be a better and less hassle like setup than this. Install, align, boom forget. Better yet with koni yellows.

With this you have to what tighten screws and what not? Lube the coilovers? Too much shit plus

These coilover may cost the same as buying springs and koni shocks but that doesnt mean is the same or better quality. The simple fact that they are just as cheap as buying 2 parts is not a good sign.

They are lower quality that a corksport/hnr and kony setup and that’s a fact. A comparable quality coilover would be $2000
You're totally missing the point. Coilovers offer tons of adjustability and have some great potential in the hands of a good suspension tuner.

Getting fixed dampers and springs like you said isn't a bad idea either. But not Koni. I would go for Bilstein B6 and Tanabe springs
 

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You're totally missing the point. Coilovers offer tons of adjustability and have some great potential in the hands of a good suspension tuner.

Getting fixed dampers and springs like you said isn't a bad idea either. But not Koni. I would go for Bilstein B6 and Tanabe springs

My username is mazda6suspension for a reason. I've done plenty of research about this subject. Coilovers are not meant for street use. People just want them for the brag aspect and because it looks cool in your sigline. Most people with them have no clue about how they work. Koni are needed for lower drops. Tanabe is barely a drop. You can run them with the stock shocks and probably be fine for years.
 

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My username is mazda6suspension for a reason. I've done plenty of research about this subject. Coilovers are not meant for street use. People just want them for the brag aspect and because it looks cool in your sigline. Most people with them have no clue about how they work. Koni are needed for lower drops. Tanabe is barely a drop. You can run them with the stock shocks and probably be fine for years.
You have a new user name every 3-6 months because you get banned. Now your trying to tell us that you change your name due to your expertise? GTFO... ok "mazda6power".... changed that name because you went to another expertise or being banned for your normal stupid comments???

"No, blinstein is not better than Koni. Konis yellow are the only shocks that should be used with a drop of 2” like corksport. Anything else won’t last long and you will feel the stiffness.

Those blinstein b6 are supposed to be oem replacement. Those b8 would be comparable to koni FSD which is only good for a drop like tanabe


I’m pretty sure the corksport shocks are rebranded blinstein b8 and that’s being generous. Who knows if these are actually b6"

Corksport ARE NOT rebranded BILSTEIN B8's!!! - Corksport are ADJUSTABLE shocks: 15-Position Adjustable Rebound Damping. Easily adjust your struts and shocks from OE specs to up to 70% higher rebound damping rate to tailor to your specific driving style and comfort level. - Bilstein have ZERO adjustable ability. B8's - These dampers offer application specific valve settings with a monotube design....

HMMM Sounds nothing alike....Pretty simple to read.... great expert advice as usual.

- Bilstein B4 OE Replacement dampers are specifically engineered to be the best choice for maintaining the original ride quality of your vehicle, while meeting or exceeding OE standards. These dampers are the ideal choice for the driver looking to restore the original performance and handling of their vehicle, with the added benefit of world-famous Bilstein quality.

- Bilstein B6 Performance dampers are a performance upgrade to OE dampers designed to be paired with the OE factory spring. These dampers offer application specific valve settings with a monotube design to bring out the best handling performance of a vehicle. Each damper is rigorously tested for quality that meets or exceeds OE standards. B6 Performance dampers will provide improved safety and handling performance with the added benefit of world-famous Bilstein quality.

- Bilstein B8 Performance Plus dampers are a performance upgrade to OE dampers designed to be paired with aftermarket lowering springs. These dampers offer application specific valve settings with a monotube design to bring out the best handling performance of a vehicle. Each damper is rigorously tested for quality that meets or exceeds OE standards. B8 Performance Plus dampers are the ideal solution for pairing with a lowering spring for improved handling and sportier look with the added benefit of world-famous Bilstein quality. B8 Shock Absorbers also have shortened piston rods in comparison to the Bilstein B6 Shock Absorber Range. This makes them ideal if you want to an extremely low vehicle profile.

And to the expert... Koni FSD's are discontinued, they have been replaced by Koni Special ACTIVE. AND the ACTIVE has yet to be available for the 2014+ GJ

- Koni Special ACTIVE - KONI Special ACTIVE are good to use with the lowering springs of your choice, we recommend H&R springs available on eEuroparts.com due to their progressive spring rate and Made-In-Germany high quality. Just be wary that KONI suggests not to drop lower than 1.25 and a maximum around 1.5in, otherwise you lose the benefits of the FSD ride. If you are a commuter that enjoys a smooth ride, with the occasional canyon run or autocross mixed in, these are for you.

If you are going below the 1" - 1.5" drop. Either Bilstein B8 or Koni Yellow sports.
 

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Cleaned up Seiya's Quarterly Rant - Carry on (about CAR SUSPENSION) as per the thread.
 
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