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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The end all discussion. I just finished a 3 +/- hour trip each way to Lexington Ohio, to the Mid Ohio Sports Car Course for a track day session with the local Cincy SCCA group. Ill cover the event in another thread after i finish the video. But ill at least say i went from a 2:14.050, to 1:58:915 by the end of the day, so i was cooking :)

Many of you know im running Centric Rotors and Z23 pads. I chose the Centric for many of the reasons listed on the product page. I chose the Z23 pads based on pretty much everyone recommending them. As far as i remember, no one but @WoodinvilleDan runs them in any kind of racing, being autocross i was interested in them as that was my intended purpose, well and everyday driving. I wanted to get them locally, but AutoZone, Advanced and O'Reillys were all special order despite claiming to carry them. As much as i critique CarID for their search page spamming, i gave them a chance to show their mettle since they had both f/r for less than AutoZone wanted for just the fronts, and i got them 2 day UPS for free IIRC.

There was discussion on the local FB group and on here as to whether or not they would make a good track pad, well, i can vehemently dispel any doubt about that. I had 5 sessions throughout the day, ranging from 6-8/9 laps, the last session being the longest, both the straight and chicane course.

HOLE LEE KRAP. Yes. I cannot lie about this. Even my instructor exclaimed about my brake grip. I told him what i was running and he couldnt believe it. I got them smelling really good, cause on the long back straight into turn 7, i was hitting 110 and i like to brake late cause i can. Turn 7 is a 90 degree, 50-60mph corner, so you have to scrub off some serious speed and i waited till deep into the 3 cone to scrub off 20ish MPH and then at 1 cone hit them to take off the rest of the speed.

NOT ONCE did they hint at fading. Im talking hauling 3400 lbs down from 110 to 60 in almost one braking action. I reported a few days ago when i mounted my new tires, that after around 12k miles, 60-70 autox runs, i had what looked like more than half the pad thickness left. I need to rotate my tires after the beating i put them through cause the fronts were squealing like a stuck pig and im sure they are prob scrubbed towards the outside. Ill visually look at them, and if i feel like really getting some data, ill break out the calipers and measure them.


So, once more, i iterate, i CANNOT recommend ANY OTHER setup. Im honestly not even sure about the CX-9 dual pot upgrade, if its even worth it, but i highly doubt ill be looking into that.

One more thing to caution, these pads require a VERY specific break in technique and takes a little longer than any other pad ive used.

So, i hope this will settle any discussion about the viability of the Power Stop Z23 pads and Centric rotors for not just track day use, but everyday use.
 

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Yep-yep.

As I've noted here I have them on my "6" and ALSO on my 1500-series Suburban, which I use to tow a 7k GVW trailer with w/d hitch. GCWR just under legal max for that rig when fully loaded. I moved my house with that combination (in multiple trips, obviously) a couple of years ago and about two months back put over 3,000 miles on the combination including through the mountains out west (TN -> Tetons and back), albeit in a materially-lighter configuration (set up as a travel trailer instead of a "house hauler".)

Chevy's 1500 series trucks have always been a bit under-braked when used in this way. They've got plenty of brakes empty, but load 'em up and the factory setup is marginal. It works but obviously Chevy built to a price as does just about everyone else.

The Z23s on the truck have made a WORLD of difference. I have ZERO fear of not being able to stop that rig when I need to, and a couple of times I DID need to on that trip. They just work and if anything when they get hot they work better. While I do hammer them on my "6" since I live in an area with mountains and twisty roads (both of which I enjoy) I haven't tracked the car.

When I wear these out that's what I'm buying as replacements. I see no reason to run anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
While I do hammer them on my "6" since I live in an area with mountains and twisty roads (both of which I enjoy) I haven't tracked the car.

When I wear these out that's what I'm buying as replacements. I see no reason to run anything else.
Most of the laps, i stayed in 3rd gear bouncing off the rev limiter so that i didnt have to brake so hard cause i wasnt sure if they would hold up. I started pushing harder, chasing or not letting people pass, so i went into 4th gear and up to 110 like i said. They smelled after, but didnt get twitchy or loose or anything. The whole trip home was uneventful as far as brakes are concerned. So yea, i dont think ill ever run another pad.
 

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I read this post and know you aren't exaggerating, that they are probably exactly what I'm looking for, and am still too stupid to cancel my CX-5 calipers on order just so I can try the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads with EBC USR rotors...I keep telling myself I'll be happy with them, but I'm sure you can recall a conversation we had in chat where I didn't listen and tried 2-3 more different things before doing what you suggested 6 months earlier lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
where I didn't listen
Well, thats the beauty of advice, youre free to chose to take it or leave it. I usually give advice based on the easiest and cheapest (least expensive, not cheaping out) method that ive found. In otherwords, i try to be the guinea pig so others dont have to.

Im still impressed with how insane these are for the price.
 

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One more thing to caution, these pads require a VERY specific break in technique and takes a little longer than any other pad ive used.
So, i hope this will settle any discussion about the viability of the Power Stop Z23 pads and Centric rotors for not just track day use, but everyday use.
That is great feedback/follow up!
I can say that after installing the supercharger everyone kept telling me I'd need to upgrade the brakes, but even doing intense canyon driving down a mountain and getting the brakes smoking, I have never had any fade! (good high temp fluid helps as well)

I'm still running the stock rotors, but will need to replace them soon. What are your thoughts on Slotted vs. blanks?
I know slotted and/or drilled looks cooler, but also reduces surface area/mass of the rotor...
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, slotted might be ok, but i overheard someone specifically say "do not get drilled rotors, cause they will crack on a track day, dont ask me how i know", so im gonna take that advice. And since these plain jane stock replacements have obviously fared well, im not convinced at all, slots or holes are needed for cooling, at least for anything short of a Viper or vette that can do 60-80mph more than we can. At this point, i think they are gimmicks for street cars.
 

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Well, slotted might be ok, but i overheard someone specifically say "do not get drilled rotors, cause they will crack on a track day, dont ask me how i know", so im gonna take that advice. And since these plain jane stock replacements have obviously fared well, im not convinced at all, slots or holes are needed for cooling, at least for anything short of a Viper or vette that can do 60-80mph more than we can. At this point, i think they are gimmicks for street cars.
So, I have an IS-F that has drilled rotors from the factory and all aftermarket replacements that are OEM spec are drilled as well. We tend to have cracked rotors in the community as well under all driving conditions (daily and track). Drilled rotors served their place years/decades ago when brake pad material was still asbestos and other hazardous stuff. The drilled holes helped with out gasing and does indeed serve a purpose in wet weather. The problem with today's brake pad material is that they do not perform the same and drilled rotors stuck in back of people's minds that simply, "drilled rotors are always used for high performance cars and are needed". That's absolutely not true.

It's also used a marketing gimmick for unknowing customers that you absolutely have to have drilled/slotted rotors. Slotted rotors are much better than drilled when it comes to longevity and reliability but everything always has their limits. Hell, even NASCAR went back to thick, solid rotors and so did some GT race teams. On the street, solid is where it's at and maybe slotted. I'd take slotted over drilled any day on the track.
 

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So, I have an IS-F that has drilled rotors from the factory and all aftermarket replacements that are OEM spec are drilled as well. We tend to have cracked rotors in the community as well under all driving conditions (daily and track). Drilled rotors served their place years/decades ago when brake pad material was still asbestos and other hazardous stuff. The drilled holes helped with out gasing and does indeed serve a purpose in wet weather. The problem with today's brake pad material is that they do not perform the same and drilled rotors stuck in back of people's minds that simply, "drilled rotors are always used for high performance cars and are needed". That's absolutely not true.

It's also used a marketing gimmick for unknowing customers that you absolutely have to have drilled/slotted rotors. Slotted rotors are much better than drilled when it comes to longevity and reliability but everything always has their limits. Hell, even NASCAR went back to thick, solid rotors and so did some GT race teams. On the street, solid is where it's at and maybe slotted. I'd take slotted over drilled any day on the track.
I think this is almost identical wording to an article I read last week about drilled vs slotted. Now I gotta look to see if it's verbatim, but yes I concur lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So, i rotated my wheels today and am honestly not sure how this is possible, but there is no noticeable difference than 2.5 weeks ago when i put the tires on. Ive heard of people toasting a brand new set of pads in a track day, but never could understand why. Maybe technology has come that far, but i doubt ill buy another brand/model of brake pad ever.
 

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I race occasionally. The first time I experienced "losing" my brakes was in Batangas Racing Circuit.

When I was about to go home, it took some time before I felt the "bite". The brake pedal was going straight to the floor.

I hope this brand is available locally, if ever I have the itch to upgrade.
 

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The Z23 pads are something special.

I had the Z17 blanks with the Z23 pads installed on my wife's CX-9.

The initial bedding process was easy but it still took several miles of stop and go driving to complete the process. The result's are staggering! Minimal effort maximum stopping power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I missed the post about the tires. I'm curious what tires you are using, and what brake fluid, if you don't mind sharing.
You didnt miss a post about the tires, i didnt make one, i think it was just a comment. Currently im on Falken 615s and just came off Potenza RE71-R's. Im not really convinced on the 615s overall, but they seem to grip decently. The RE-71Rs were much more razor sharp feeling, the 615s are a little "softer".
 

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I missed the post about the tires. I'm curious what tires you are using, and what brake fluid, if you don't mind sharing.

Hmmm
you didn't mention brake fluid. Did you keep DOT3 or move up to DOT3 or 5.1?
 
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