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Z23 pads *updated*

5994 Views 28 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  TalonTsi90
The end all discussion. I just finished a 3 +/- hour trip each way to Lexington Ohio, to the Mid Ohio Sports Car Course for a track day session with the local Cincy SCCA group. Ill cover the event in another thread after i finish the video. But ill at least say i went from a 2:14.050, to 1:58:915 by the end of the day, so i was cooking :)

Many of you know im running Centric Rotors and Z23 pads. I chose the Centric for many of the reasons listed on the product page. I chose the Z23 pads based on pretty much everyone recommending them. As far as i remember, no one but @WoodinvilleDan runs them in any kind of racing, being autocross i was interested in them as that was my intended purpose, well and everyday driving. I wanted to get them locally, but AutoZone, Advanced and O'Reillys were all special order despite claiming to carry them. As much as i critique CarID for their search page spamming, i gave them a chance to show their mettle since they had both f/r for less than AutoZone wanted for just the fronts, and i got them 2 day UPS for free IIRC.

There was discussion on the local FB group and on here as to whether or not they would make a good track pad, well, i can vehemently dispel any doubt about that. I had 5 sessions throughout the day, ranging from 6-8/9 laps, the last session being the longest, both the straight and chicane course.

HOLE LEE KRAP. Yes. I cannot lie about this. Even my instructor exclaimed about my brake grip. I told him what i was running and he couldnt believe it. I got them smelling really good, cause on the long back straight into turn 7, i was hitting 110 and i like to brake late cause i can. Turn 7 is a 90 degree, 50-60mph corner, so you have to scrub off some serious speed and i waited till deep into the 3 cone to scrub off 20ish MPH and then at 1 cone hit them to take off the rest of the speed.

NOT ONCE did they hint at fading. Im talking hauling 3400 lbs down from 110 to 60 in almost one braking action. I reported a few days ago when i mounted my new tires, that after around 12k miles, 60-70 autox runs, i had what looked like more than half the pad thickness left. I need to rotate my tires after the beating i put them through cause the fronts were squealing like a stuck pig and im sure they are prob scrubbed towards the outside. Ill visually look at them, and if i feel like really getting some data, ill break out the calipers and measure them.

So, once more, i iterate, i CANNOT recommend ANY OTHER setup. Im honestly not even sure about the CX-9 dual pot upgrade, if its even worth it, but i highly doubt ill be looking into that.

One more thing to caution, these pads require a VERY specific break in technique and takes a little longer than any other pad ive used.

So, i hope this will settle any discussion about the viability of the Power Stop Z23 pads and Centric rotors for not just track day use, but everyday use.
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While I do hammer them on my "6" since I live in an area with mountains and twisty roads (both of which I enjoy) I haven't tracked the car.

When I wear these out that's what I'm buying as replacements. I see no reason to run anything else.
Most of the laps, i stayed in 3rd gear bouncing off the rev limiter so that i didnt have to brake so hard cause i wasnt sure if they would hold up. I started pushing harder, chasing or not letting people pass, so i went into 4th gear and up to 110 like i said. They smelled after, but didnt get twitchy or loose or anything. The whole trip home was uneventful as far as brakes are concerned. So yea, i dont think ill ever run another pad.
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where I didn't listen
Well, thats the beauty of advice, youre free to chose to take it or leave it. I usually give advice based on the easiest and cheapest (least expensive, not cheaping out) method that ive found. In otherwords, i try to be the guinea pig so others dont have to.

Im still impressed with how insane these are for the price.
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Well, slotted might be ok, but i overheard someone specifically say "do not get drilled rotors, cause they will crack on a track day, dont ask me how i know", so im gonna take that advice. And since these plain jane stock replacements have obviously fared well, im not convinced at all, slots or holes are needed for cooling, at least for anything short of a Viper or vette that can do 60-80mph more than we can. At this point, i think they are gimmicks for street cars.
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So, i rotated my wheels today and am honestly not sure how this is possible, but there is no noticeable difference than 2.5 weeks ago when i put the tires on. Ive heard of people toasting a brand new set of pads in a track day, but never could understand why. Maybe technology has come that far, but i doubt ill buy another brand/model of brake pad ever.
I missed the post about the tires. I'm curious what tires you are using, and what brake fluid, if you don't mind sharing.
You didnt miss a post about the tires, i didnt make one, i think it was just a comment. Currently im on Falken 615s and just came off Potenza RE71-R's. Im not really convinced on the 615s overall, but they seem to grip decently. The RE-71Rs were much more razor sharp feeling, the 615s are a little "softer".
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@TalonTsi90 do those look like the same rotors to you?
They arent the same P/N, but they are right for your car. However, youre only saving $50. Here are the front pads and the rears.
Do you happen to have the product number for the Centric rotors you use?
Yea, but they list them as a diff P/N. 120.45084 / 120.45085
I rotated my tires again Saturday for the last autocross event yesterday and measured two things. The tread on the tires, and the pad thickness in the front.

Tires with 5 track sessions and 3 autocross events (17 runs), and maybe 5k road miles, the fronts were down to 3/16" on the outer edges and rears were 5-6/16"s on the outer edges. Im just saying this to show that im not easy on my car in any respect, even in daily driving.

The brake pads with 2 seasons of autocross (prob more than 100 runs) and the 5 track sessions at Mid Ohio where i got up to 110 on the back straight coming into Corner 7, prob 15k miles of wait till the last second braking and the fronts sitll have over 1/4" on the outside pads. I didnt have the time nor energy to pull the calipers and take real measurements on the rears or inside pads but will here in the next couple weeks when i put my AS tires back on. Ill also take measurements of the rotor wear as well.
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Ok, out with the summer tires, back in with the Continentals and since it was only 2 bolts, i pulled the front right caliper off and well, the pics speak for themselves... About 8.5mm on the outside pad and about 7.5mm on the inside pad.

(56k warning lol)
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Anyone can recommend an electronic rear brake disc pad for Mazda 6 2.0L model and a bushings kit for the control arm?
You need your own thread, @Byakuya
Now I can confirm what the mechanic said to me, that it's normal to have different pad thickness. I thought something was wrong with my car.
If you think about it, the inside pad always has more friction on it.
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