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Discussion Starter #1
I know that this board is flooded with CAI questions but I am having a difficult time finding the answers to my questions. I am interested in purchasing one soon and wanted to know:

- How difficult of an install is it for someone who has not done any car mods ever. (Changing my front rotors on my Grand Am tonight will be an adventure!) How detailed are the instructions that come with it, are they designed for the lay man?

- How much maintenance after the fact is involved? I read that there is a filter in there, does it need to be replaced? If so, how often and typically how much is the replacement?

- Is there anything I should look out for prior to installing that could do significant damage to my vehicle if overlooked?

- Removable: How easy/difficult is it to remove it if need be?


I really would like to get some noise out of my turbo since when I drive next to a Saab 9-3 it SOUNDS better than my car but I can dominate it in any gear.

Hope these questions are not extremely common and feel free to lambaste if my search efforts were not extensive enough!
 

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- How much maintenance after the fact is involved? I read that there is a filter in there, does it need to be replaced? If so, how often and typically how much is the replacement?

- Removable: How easy/difficult is it to remove it if need be?
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It has a dry filter down inside the wheel well - not too hard to get to, but takes more work. Kit comes with filter cleaning solution - clean it when it gets dirty.

Removing the CAI is the opposite of installing it. Takes about an hour or two
 

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It has a dry filter down inside the wheel well - not too hard to get to, but takes more work. Kit comes with filter cleaning solution - clean it when it gets dirty.

Removing the CAI is the opposite of installing it. Takes about an hour or two
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You could probably get it done in an hour. Since you're new to it, just take your time though and you can get it done within 2 hours.

The directions for the Mazdaspeed CAI were pretty good in my opinion.
 

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I just bought one today. I've never done anything like it either but I'll give it a shot. Instructions do look pretty good.

The Mazda Canada pdf said it was an orange warranty item but it says green on the instructions :)

If I void my warranty it's gonna be for something more than an intake.
 

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I just bought one today. I've never done anything like it either but I'll give it a shot. Instructions do look pretty good.

The Mazda Canada pdf said it was an orange warranty item but it says green on the instructions :)

If I void my warranty it's gonna be for something more than an intake.
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can someone please let me know which tools are needed for this install. i just moved into my apartment and have limited tools/garage space here. my intake should arrive today or tomorrow and id hate to have to wait to install it when i cant find a socket extension etc.
 

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can someone please let me know which tools are needed for this install. i just moved into my apartment and have limited tools/garage space here. my intake should arrive today or tomorrow and id hate to have to wait to install it when i cant find a socket extension etc.
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Instructions say:

10mm Socket
8mm Socket
Ratchet
Phillips Head Screw Driver
Flat Head Screw Driver
10mm Wrench
3.5mm Allen Wrench
Safety Glasses :)
 

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Instructions say:

10mm Socket
8mm Socket
Ratchet
Phillips Head Screw Driver
Flat Head Screw Driver
10mm Wrench
3.5mm Allen Wrench
Safety Glasses :)
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you rock. thanks man
it'll probably help me a ton that my resonator is out already, glad i got that done a few weeks ago.
 

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I just installed the CP-E CAI yesterday. I think I used a 10mm socket for most bolts, a philips stubby screwdriver for removing the wheel well, and pliers for getting lots of the tubing off. It really didn't require many tools at all.

The HKS SSQV BoV kit on the other hand, OMG, I don't even want to talk about it. I'm very new to this and I forgot to put the O-ring in there.. (I read the instructions but got confused with the talks of all the "rings"). Anyways, it took me HOURS to get the snap ring BACK off and I scratched the bottom of the BoV to high hell in the process :(
 

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you rock. thanks man
it'll probably help me a ton that my resonator is out already, glad i got that done a few weeks ago.
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That will save you like 20 mins probably. You can probably get it all done within 30 mins with that already out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all of the great responses. After doing some more searching I found some posts that say that if I want to get the typical turbo 'hiss' that the CAI would not be what I would need. Can someone give me some clarification? For my first mod I want to hear that turbo, I will work on significant HP increases later :)

Thanks again!
 

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Thanks for all of the great responses. After doing some more searching I found some posts that say that if I want to get the typical turbo 'hiss' that the CAI would not be what I would need. Can someone give me some clarification? For my first mod I want to hear that turbo, I will work on significant HP increases later :)

Thanks again!
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With the CAI, you will hear the turbo. With a BOV all you hear is the release of air. If you want to hear the turbo, you do need the CAI.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, maybe I need to figure out what exactly I want to hear :) I was driving and had a Tuned Neon pass me, as he switched gears I heard a hiss blast of air, is that the turbo or the air release? What does the turbo sound like if that is the case?

I do hate to sound so superficial, but I have to start somewhere :)

What can you tell me about the BOV, what does that do specifically?
 

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Ok, maybe I need to figure out what exactly I want to hear :) I was driving and had a Tuned Neon pass me, as he switched gears I heard a hiss blast of air, is that the turbo or the air release? What does the turbo sound like if that is the case?

I do hate to sound so superficial, but I have to start somewhere :)

What can you tell me about the BOV, what does that do specifically?
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BOV - probably VTA (which you really do not want to do based on concensus here)
 

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You'll also need a 14mm socket, a ratchet (3/8 in drive or 1/2 in drive) and a 6" extension to undo the 3 resonator nuts, which are the toughest part of the install. The other area that might prove some difficulty to you is the crankcase vent tube that goes from the intake bellows (the part with the ribbing) to the valve cover at the back near the firewall. For more notes see my posting here:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=57751

I installed the Fujita CAI instead of the AEM/MazdaSpeed version so there will be detail differences but in general most of my comments should apply.
 

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You heard the BOV releaseing air from the neon. It will do that at each shift.

The CAI will give you more of a sucking sound from the Throttle body and then a wining/spooling sounds if you are in boost, while accelerating. Also with the CAI, you will get the sound of the BOV releasing air, but not near as good as the neon you heard go by.

The BOV is not a HP adding mod really, just more for sound. Some say it will allow you to hold boost better in the High RPM's, which I believe probably is true.

The CAI will add HP.

-Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Great, thanks a lot for all of the info. The video in that link is great. I hope the MS CAI sounds similar to that, it's about what I am looking for. After doing some searching it seems that the BOV isn't that costly of an install, I'll end up doing that after the CAI I suppose.

I read another thread that it is recommended to get some gauges first, so maybe I will have to baby-step my way into this.
 

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So I did the install yesterday, went fairly smoothly overall. Although I did manage to brake the clip that goes to the breather tube. Half of it broke as I inserted the tube, not sure what I did wrong. It's holding but I'll get a new clip as soon as I can.

Took about 3 hours. All this stuff is new to me so I took my time.

You do have to take off the wheel. And removing the resonator is a pain in the ass even with the car jacked and the wheel removed. The top 2 left bolts are not easily attainable especially the top one. The installation of the CAI is really easy (You need a socket with an extension for sure).

As for impressions, the sound of the car is completely changed. You really hear the turbo spool up and the stock BOV becomes very apparent. If aftermarket BOV are louder than this I wouldn't want one.

As for power, I'll wait until I've had a chance to drive it for a while and for the ecu to adjust. The sound of the car really plays with your mind. More sound must mean more power right :) For now top end seems better. And it does feel better. Time will tell, that and the track :)
 

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You do have to take off the wheel. And removing the resonator is a pain in the ass even with the car jacked and the wheel removed. The top 2 left bolts are not easily attainable especially the top one.
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did you try turning the wheel al the way to the left? you really don't need to take off the wheel, but if you do remember to use jack stands or a lift.

the bolts are a pain, but you can get them from underneath without removing the bumper or the wheel.
 

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Great, thanks a lot for all of the info. The video in that link is great. I hope the MS CAI sounds similar to that, it's about what I am looking for. After doing some searching it seems that the BOV isn't that costly of an install, I'll end up doing that after the CAI I suppose.

I read another thread that it is recommended to get some gauges first, so maybe I will have to baby-step my way into this.
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Here is my mod list from first to most recent:

1. CP-e CAI (this increases the sound of the engine over-all, sucking, spooling, and the weird 'splat hiss' from the stock BoV... almost sounds like a 1" hole spitting out air, just not a clean tight sound)

2. CP-e BoV flang and HKS SSQV in Recirc. (this together with my CAI is a great sound, it gives a more "pshhhtt" sound than the stock BoV. Not louder, but more refined)

3. 45mm Omori Boost Gauge, I installed this as I installed number 2.

4. 3" CP-e Cat-back... nice grumble... nice power :-D

That's it for now, I hope this helps. If not, then I'm sorry... randomness for the win.
 

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did you try turning the wheel al the way to the left? you really don't need to take off the wheel, but if you do remember to use jack stands or a lift.

the bolts are a pain, but you can get them from underneath without removing the bumper or the wheel.
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Yes I did have the wheel fully turned. I guess it's possible without removing it but when you don't know where the bolts are it's very difficult. With the wheel off and the fender cover removed it makes it easier.
 
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