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Looking closely, it seems like that the "waffles" is the cross member. And with that, I don't have to remove the plastic covers.
Wrong Jack Point issue - ‘17 Mazda 6
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I just checked and the local price is ridiculously high, it's $2240!!! They gave me this link and it looks like "easy" to use.
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Here's the one behind...Looking closely, it seems like that the "waffles" is the cross member. And with that, I don't have to remove the plastic covers.
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I'm confused...
The way I understand it, I should place the jack here:
By the way, that rust of yours is alarming for me. I saw some rust formation on my car as I took the pictures. I'll use the "spray oil" I bought once I change the oil.
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Lol, my brother did the same thing, went a little too far forward and pushed the right front fender. I was pissed to say the least. Still haven't completely repaired it because the bottom two bolts just snapped off when I tried taking them off, pushed it far enough back that it doesn't rub the door and ruin the paint anymore.
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1) it's not not my car, but someone else's from this forum; and 2) that is correct; that is the rear jacking point...I'm confused...
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The way I understand it, I should place the jack here:
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By the way, that rust of yours is alarming for me. I saw some rust formation on my car as I took the pictures. I'll use the "spray oil" I bought once I change the oil.
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That's great to know! Make that comment twice.
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I finally got the low profile jack! I'll be lifting the car tomorrow.
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Archerfish, I see why you access the frt jacking point from the wheel well (i.e. from the side of the car)... but do note that due to the arc of the lifting arm it will draw the car laterally if the jack wheels "hitch" on your tile garage floor. Not a problem if the parking brake is off and the rear wheels are only loosely chocked (with wedges / chocks). When it comes to the rear (once you have the frt on jack stands) maybe it'd be best to have the jack positioned in line with the car and maybe it'd be best to have the jack on top of a piece of 1/2" MDF (medium density particle board) if the floor tile is a prb. Or, to guard against the frt of the car being drawn-off the frt jackstands due to the arc of the jack arm / jack wheel stiction (at the back of the car), somehow use timber pieces instead of jack stands) at the frt (for supporting the car), that will be more stable? Just be careful with these matters!
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Thank you very much for the reminder! It's truly appreciated.
I intend to clean the brakes while waiting for the oil to drain so the parking brake is off. I'll be using wood blocks on the rear tires.
I never thought of the "movement of the arm". Now that you mentioned it, I am hoping that the jack will move itself to align it to the jacking point by sliding. However, the floor jack is a bit heavy compared to what I've used before.
The best way will be to position the jack from the front but I don't have much space when I tried fitting the floor jack. I'll move the car backwards tomorrow and see how much space I can get.
Yes, I have much space at the rear and that is how I will do it.
I have thought of using something similar to the jack stands last time because I was worried with the tiles. However, nothing happened then. I'll look for a piece of board tomorrow and put it under the jack stands.
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