[ulaing]

New here - been lurking for a bit, trying to find answers but haven't seen anyone with this exact problem on my bros '04 wagon 3.0L....

History: 6 mos ago - CEL on and barely running, brought to local Mazda dealer and retrieved codes P0022 (timing over-retarded) and P0345 (bank 2 CPS). Heavy sludge buildup - performed engine flush and replaced 'spool valve'. Left the Bank 2 CPS unplugged and sent him on his way, with car running 'ok'.

Present diagnosis:
-cleared codes, started engine as is with CPS still unplugged - CEL on with code P0345.
-plugged in CPS, cleared codes and started engine - running very rough - codes P0340 and P0345.
-checked Bank 1 & 2 sensors - ok @ 550 & 520 ohms
-checked Bank 1 & 2 oil control valves - ok @ 8.8 ohms
-checked crank position sensor - ok @ 280 ohms
-ran engine with OCV's disconnected, powered them up separately with 12V - each of them changed engine pitch slightly as intake valve timing was forced from fully retarded to fully advanced
-checked voltage to CPS wiring harness plugs (1.0 VDC at idle)
-removed Bank 2 CPS and plugged into wiring harness - engine runs fine

Any ideas??
Why would the CPS cause a problem only when it is installed in the head? Something to do with the reluctor alignment on the cam actuator??
Does the CPS signal do anything else besides variable intake timing??

What am I missing??

Thanks!

 

[flipper66]

3/4s of what you posted made little sense to me(spent most of time working on older cars........ this electrical non-sense still is above my shoe size IQ).

that being said, all issues reside in the sensor, that I can understand. checking out the wiring harness to that sensor and or replacing the sensor makes sense to me.

milage?

what does "barely running" mean exactly (Just lack of timing)? recent services(recent meaning before the issues started 6 months)?

Smells? oil consumption(may have been hidden by sludge)?

 

[The Great NY]

vvt actuator(s) may be shot or the OCV (oil control valves) may be shot. either of those or both. they both control timing. and being it said over-retarded leads me to the VVT actuators being stuck or not working at all

 

[ulaing]

3/4s of what you posted made little sense to me(spent most of time working on older cars........ this electrical non-sense still is above my shoe size IQ).

that being said, all issues reside in the sensor, that I can understand. checking out the wiring harness to that sensor and or replacing the sensor makes sense to me.

milage?

what does "barely running" mean exactly (Just lack of timing)? recent services(recent meaning before the issues started 6 months)?

Smells? oil consumption(may have been hidden by sludge)?

That's what I figured at first too, but the sensor itself as well as the wiring harness check out ok...

140,000miles

'barely running' means it will not idle on its own, running very rough as though misfiring or wrong ignition timing...

recent services - unfortunately I don't think he has maintained the vehicle very well - no details

It did have excessive oil consumption - had to replace the front crank seal, PCV valve and hoses, bank 2 vent hoses - appears to be ok now.

 

[ulaing]

vvt actuator(s) may be shot or the OCV (oil control valves) may be shot. either of those or both. they both control timing. and being it said over-retarded leads me to the VVT actuators being stuck or not working at all

Yes, but I can completely disconnect both OCV's (intake valve timing fully retarded) and the vehicle will run fine unless the Bank 2 CPS is plugged in...

 

[leveil22]

Yes, but I can completely disconnect both OCV's (intake valve timing fully retarded) and the vehicle will run fine unless the Bank 2 CPS is plugged in...

Where are the OCV's located? And how many CPS's are there? Also where is the CKPS located?

 

[The Great NY]

could be your fuel injectors.

 

[EMP_M6S]

Here's the pic's of my v6 2003's CAM sensors. The Crank sensor is lower on the front end and looks like a pain to get to without removing the belt or all the pipeing. After I replace my cam sensor, the car is running much smoother. You can remove the coolant res. to access, and use a flat head screw driver to pop the back sensor out.

P.S. The old sensors OHM'd the same as the new ones, but they were still faulty.