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Discussion Starter #1
Well Up to the electrical part of the install just follow Falcons How-to on the baking and mounting of the Halos. Here you will find the electrical part of the install. Begin this after the silicon has dried and the halos are mounted in the projector. The silicon around the projector doesn't have to be dry as long as the 8 metal clips are in place holding the projector tightly together.

Tools Needed:
Neednose Pliers
10MM Socket/Rachet
Heavy Dute Industrial Double Sided Tape
Wire Tapping Connects (Get from Radio Shack)
Male/Female Connectors (Not sure of size...will edit when I talk to lora who has the bag at her house...also available at radio shack)


1. Pull all the white wires through the back of the projector. Drill a 1/4 Inch hole in both dust caps to allow for passing through of the wires. If you are going to do the HID install first drill the 1 Inch Hole (I believe) in the Low Beam Dust Cap dead center and then the 1/4 Inch hole towards the bottom.

2. Take the 4 Black Tabs from the package and beginning slipping the crimped end of the white wires from bulb into the connector. With the black connector knob pointing up insert the metal clip from the rear into the whole with the metal tab facing upwards. Push into the connector until it clicks into place and can no longer be pulled out. You need to do this for all the ends of the white wires. These black connectors are how we connect the lights to the ballast.

3. Place the headlights back into car but do not bolt everything down until we are finished.

4. At this point you must remove the Negative Battery Terminal. Be careful not to slip and hit the wrench against anything while doing this...although it is unlikely anything can occur if you do slip...it's better safe then sorry.

5. Now take the wiring harness into your hand. The harness will be connected as follows: (Sorry my Photoshop skill sucks and I didn't get a picture of it before connecting it!)



6. Take off the fusebox cover and undo the 10MM bolt on the left, which has a 12+ lead and place the Positive Connector from the Harness to that terminal.



7. Now connect the Ground from harness on other side of the fusebox.



8. Find the shorter of the sets of wires remaing. First work with the one that does not have a third red wire coming from it. The side without the 3rd wire is for the drivers side headlight. Connect the ballast to the halos by connecting the black connectors to black. Then take the Red and Brown from Ballast and go to the Red and Brown from the Harness.

9. Now take the longer set of wires and begin hooking up the passenger side halos. Connect the ballast in the same way and then connect to the harness in the same way as we did on the drivers side.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
10. There is 1 wire remaining, which is a red wire with a male connector crimped to the end. This is the control wire for the relay to trigger the ballast either on or off. You can tap into the Parking Light or Side Marker Light to have it come on with your lights, Run a swithc through your firewall, or any other manner as you please. To tap into parking light, tap into the Brown wire using the Tapping Connectors. To tap into the Side Marker you must tap into the Green Wire. When tapping, make sure to have another wire with enough length to run up to the control wire. (Here is the wires you could tap into...I originally tapped into parking light but it didn't work...later found out that I didn't tap correctly...didn't push down completely using the tapping connectors. That is why I tapped into the Side Marker befor realizing that. Its up to you where you want to tap...but you only need to do one of the following)

Parking Light Tap


Side Marker Tap (One that I used)


11. Crimp a Female connector onto the wire you just tapped and connect to the Male connector for control wire. Wrap some electrical tape around it to prevent it from coming apart of shorting out in worst case senario.

12. Place the supplied fuse into the fuse holder.

13. Reconnect the Negative terminal but do not tighten if you plan on doing an HID install. Turn the key to Accesory Mode because we still havent moved the wires out of the way. We just want to make sure everything is working. Turn on your parking lights. The halos if wired correctly will light up.

14. Now it's time to mount the ballast. I mounted both ballast straight onto the projector headlight right behind the Side Marker Dust Cap.

Passenger Side:


Drivers Side:


15. Mount the wiring harness relay to fusebox and tuck the wires safely to the side of the fusebox with the inline fuse also placed to the side.



16. Run the long wire to passenger side along the front of the engine compartment, zip tying it along whereever you see a whole you get a zip tie through. This will keep the install looking professional and also preventing your wires from being ripped apart and destroyed.



17. Secure the wire you tapped into side marker(parking light) and prevent it from being damaged.

18. At this point if your going to install HIDs, remove the Negative battery terminal and begin the install. The Prolumens install is pretty self explanitory if you look at the manual. The only issues I will go into detail is that the ground from H1 is too small to fit to the harness they give you. So tap into this wire and crimp on a female connector and use this as your ground for the harness on both sides. I have showed where we mounted the ballasts and ignitors for the HIDs. Use a lot of double sided tape. This is right underneath the headlight unit.

Passenger Side:


Drivers Side:


19. Reconnect the negative terminal.
20. Tighten all the bolts for headlight housing.
21. Place the bumper back on and rebolt all the bolts.

Enjoy your halos and HIDS! Here are two pictures from Lora's 6s with running halos! the first in the US to have them installed...at least the Umnitza ones.





Hope this helps and please ask any questions!

Mike
 

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great write up...couple questions...did the halo kit come with the relay harness or did you make it youself? and do you remember the dimensions of the balast??
 

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i havnt done this install, but make sure you crimp on those blue connectors tight they have a habit of not sitting properly , in reality i think they should have been the red ones for smaller wire . best to use pliers to seat the metal clip then close the flap over it , and use electrical tape to make sure the flap doesnt open , they tend to do that too and expose the blade possibly creating a short .


hey UC, where did you get the kermantle looking wire loom ?? or did it come with the Halo Kit
 

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I can answer a couple of these questions.

The wiring harness is included with the kit.

The ballasts are about 3 x 1 x 1 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Everything came with the kit. It was a great package for the price!
 

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Awesome. Nice write up. Looks like a fun project i need to do. How long did install take?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Removing the bumper and headlights: About 20 minutes
Baking Headlights and removing glue from both: About on Hour
Mounting Halos on both: About 30 minutes
Letting Dry: 12 Hours (Wire it up while its drying)
Wiring the Units: About 40 minutes
Putting Headlights Back Together: About 30 minutes
Mounting Headlights & Testing: About 15 minutes
Putting Bumper back on: About 15 minutes

So I'd say...actual working time around 3 - 3 1/2 hours
 

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UCLeadGuitar,

Just curious, you mean 2 hours for letting it dry right? Also, I can't find falcon's writeup for the halo mounting install. Can you point to me where it is? thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by dawei213@Apr 12 2005, 03:10 PM
UCLeadGuitar,

Just curious, you mean 2 hours for letting it dry right? Also, I can't find falcon's writeup for the halo mounting install. Can you point to me where it is? thanks.
[snapback]391924[/snapback]​
I let the silicon dry for 12 hours so when i would take the tape off the halos wouldn't fall right off. I would take the time and do it right otherwise you might regret it when you put the unit back together and you hit a bump and the halo goes flying off. So yes....12 Hours!
 

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Good Stuff... is that the AEM Short Ram? I haven't seen any actual pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yea lora has the AEM short ram.
 
J

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on the halo light kit where did you purchase it. Those lights look good and i have been wanting lights like that for my mazda
 

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Check out the group buy section. We are selling them via a thread in there for the time being.
 

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Male/Female Connectors (Not sure of size...will edit when I talk to lora who has the bag at her house...also available at radio shack)[/b]
Did you ever get the sizing for these connectors?
 

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Falcon, or anybody. My kit did not come with the main harness. My car is all apart and I need to get it back up and running by Monday. From the wiring pictures provided by UCLeadguitar, it looks like a pretty straight-forward relay setup where parking light "+" would come in on 85, ground would be 86 (with the brown wires from ballasts hooked up to 86 also) 87 would be 12v+ with a fused 10ga wire from fuse block, and 30 would go to the red wires on the ballasts.

What I can't tell is if there are any resistors or diodes in the heat-shrink around the relay. Somebody please help.
 

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I JUST GOT DONE WITH MY DDE YESTERDAY. I MADE MINE A LITLE DIFFERENT.FIRST OF ALL I DIDN'T BAKE MY HEADLIGHTS, I JUST CUT THE SEALER WITH A 4" SPACLE KNIFE, CAME APART EASILY.SO I DIDNT HAVE THE GLUE ALL OVER THE PLACE. I MADE MY LIGHTS JUST LIKE THE MAZDASPEED ONES.WHEN I INSTALLED THE DDE, I KEPT EVERYTHING ISIDE THE HEADLIGHT. I ONLY HAVE A RED AND THE BROWN WIRE COMING OUT ON THE BOTTIOM OF THE HEADLIGHTS. SEALED THE 2 WIRES WITH SILICON FROM THE INSIDE. THESE 2 WIRESI PULLED THRUGH THE HOLE OF THE HEADLIGHT CAP. ON THE HARNESS I ONLY CONNECTED THE YELLOW 12+ AND THE BLACK GROUND-. THE OTHER 2 WIRES , WHAT GOES TO THE PARKINGLIGHTS, I ONLY CONNECTED ONE INTO THE FUSEBOX UNDER THE 10 AMP TAIL FUSE. IT WAS VERY EASY, SIMPLE JOB. HERE ARE SOME PICS.
 

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