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Discussion Starter #1
I am trying to wire in a kill swicth to my fuel pump but there is more than just 2 or 3 wires. As I looked for ways to wire it in I noticed that it seems no one has a wire diagram for the six. Y not? As much info as there is in the form there is no freakin' wire diag. anyway if any one can help in with the wire thing that would be great. thanks

Shadow 6

Edit/Update

I have a wire diagram now if anyone needs it PM me.
 

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umm...the red wire....wait, maybe it is the blue wire. yeah it is the blue wire. well, maybe it is the red wire.... i am so nervous....i do not know which wire to cut...hahaha i could not help it. you can go to most dealers service departments and get that information printed out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well either that is above intlect or i am just really sleepy!?!?! So make it simple for me, what color wire at the fuel pump provides the power? NOT THE GROUND the power? I figure if the ground is cut then all they would have to do is make it touch the meteal and that is too easy.
 

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Hey Shadow - may I ask why the kill switch?

Atom44wat - isn't the R/Y (red/yellow) wire for the fuel gauge? I think he wants to put a contact or switch in series with the existing fuel pump relay contact. So that would mean the G/R wire, anywhere in between the side of the contact labelled "D" and the fuel pump itself.

...or am I way off in left field here?
 

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Hey Shadow - may I ask why the kill switch?

Atom44wat - isn't the R/Y (red/yellow) wire for the fuel gauge? I think he wants to put a contact or switch in series with the existing fuel pump relay contact. So that would mean the G/R wire, anywhere in between the side of the contact labelled "D" and the fuel pump itself.

...or am I way off in left field here?
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That's the way I read it. G/R should be correct.
 

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You can interrrupt the G/R wire, or W/G, either will disconnect the power to the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Shadow - may I ask why the kill switch?

Atom44wat - isn't the R/Y (red/yellow) wire for the fuel gauge? I think he wants to put a contact or switch in series with the existing fuel pump relay contact. So that would mean the G/R wire, anywhere in between the side of the contact labelled "D" and the fuel pump itself.

...or am I way off in left field here?
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Cause I am parniod... I could really care less if u steal every thing out the car, except my laptop, just don't steal my car. Where I live now I am good but When I deploy in aug '06 I have a friend that is going to take care of it in STL and she was talking about how in the old hood she used to live in they tried to get her uncle, and cousin a few times and those wernt even nice cars. SSSSOOOOOOOO, I am putting in a kill swicth, actually two. I one I like to call and easy kill, in the front area hit it as I get in/out. And one in the glove box or more likly in the trunk, harder to acces/find, for long term parking or really bad areas.

So I see we have come up with G/R and W/G so witch one is hot?

Ohh and thanks for the quick replies I have been working alot so i was a lil slow.
 

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Wow bro, must be serious.

I cannot imagine having to hit a switch everytime I get in/out of the car. Or at least most of the time.

Have you thought about an alarm system? I've got the Viper 791XV with motion sensors.
 

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Right-o Shadow. Two kill switches, in series to disable the car. One with easy access and another hidden away. I'm a big fan of these - well done!

One potential problem with this is that if you forget to enable both kill switches (or if a wire comes loose, etc), the ECU will try to run the fuel pump, and likely detect that there is a low fuel pressure situation. This *might* cause a CEL which could be a pain in the nads to reset.

Suggestion - tie into the tranny's neutral safety switch (if you have an AT) or the clutch safety switch (if you the MT, and if the '6 has one...I'm not sure). This switch tells the computer if it is "safe" to start the engine. If the tranny is in gear, the computer will not commence the start up sequence (fuel pump prime, TB position, etc). This is a "recoverable fault" and the ECU won't have a fit and throw a CEL.

I'm not 100% sure if the above will actually happen - has anyone else tried this before?

As for which wire is hot - it depends on where you want to make the connection. The G/R is the hot that is feeding the pump, but BE CAREFUL where/how you make the connection.

Do you plan on breaking into the wiring harness at the connector shown in the diagram?
 

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^^^^Yeah, good point Crash. There is less power in that circuit - the W/L wire coming down from the Main Relay.

I still think a better way is through the tranny neutral safety switch, rather than mucking around with the fuel pump.
 

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^^^^Yeah, good point Crash. There is less power in that circuit - the W/L wire coming down from the Main Relay.

I still think a better way is through the tranny neutral safety switch, rather than mucking around with the fuel pump.
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Yeah that would also work, but it depends a lot on where each of them is accessible. The best way to hide a switch is to start with a tiny switch. Which means finding something with very low current and low voltage that is crucial to running the vehicle. A safety switch is probably about as low as you can go. Sensors are always low power, but I don't know which ones are important enough to cripple the vehicle. I know on my '99 Ranger, it won't run if the mass-airflow sensor doesn't get a good reading (e.g. if it's unplugged).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so how would i go about doing the tranny kill? Cause i like that idea.
 

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First and foremost, we're going to need to get you a complete wiring diagram. I'm thinking shop manual...

There should be a connection from the tranny to the TCU and/or the ECU indicating the tranny state (either it's in Park/Neutral, or it's in Drive/Reverse/Manual Mode). That's the wire that you could break into and connect your switch(es) in series.

Sorry I can't be more specific Shadow - I haven't looked into doing this with my '6. I have done the same thing in past with a Jeep Cherokee and a Chevy pickup.

Does anyone have access to the electrical schematics? Anyone? Anyone? Bueler?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well i hope someone comes up with one cause i would like to do that one
 

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Your car has a chip in the factory key so it can't be hotwired, if you need to do something extra to feel safer, just pull the fuse for the fuel pump.

If some one wants your car bad enough, it doesn't matter how many kill switches you put on it, they will just tow it away.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Your car has a chip in the factory key so it can't be hotwired, if you need to do something extra to feel safer, just pull the fuse for the fuel pump.

If some one wants your car bad enough, it doesn't matter how many kill switches you put on it, they will just tow it away.
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I said stole'in not repoed :nono: I pay my bill. Naw i understand that but u can get around the chip cause it isan't like the chip is uniqe it is just a voltage that it emits put one in there with the right voltage, pop the collar, and hot wire.
 
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