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LOL! Thanks guys....haha.....I'll attack it this weekend when I get home.

Are the plugs hard to find in autopart stores? I saw someone post a link...gotta find it.
 

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Ok....one more question about plugs for the experts...

I have a CPE-CAI on the car right now. I will probably get a Cobb AP soon. Should I just get the Denso ITV22 or NGK LTR71X-11s or stick with OEM?

I also admit, I'm not to excited about trying to gap these fragile plugs......

Thoughts?
 

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Denso's.
 

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Ok, so last ( dumb ) question....

Running a 1 step colder plug on a car with a CAI as the only mod isn't going to mess anything up, will it?

I'll be getting a Cobb AP soon as well, and will likely just start with their canned tune first for a while....I can save the plugs for later and get oems, just want to be sure....the plugs arrive tomorrow and I'll be installing if all is kosher...
 

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Ok, so last ( dumb ) question....

Running a 1 step colder plug on a car with a CAI as the only mod isn't going to mess anything up, will it?

I'll be getting a Cobb AP soon as well, and will likely just start with their canned tune first for a while....I can save the plugs for later and get oems, just want to be sure....the plugs arrive tomorrow and I'll be installing if all is kosher...
I'm in a similar situation with little mods, and curious what plugs you went with. What were your results?
 

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I say stay with the stock heat range. Unless you are turning the boost up there is no need to go with a colder plug. Some will argue the stock heat range will work until you are almost fully bolted and maxing out the stock turbo. Plugs are not the magical fix for this.
 

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Hey guys I'm having an issue that sounds similar to the shudder/stutter problem but I'm not 100% sure that's really all it is. It doesn't only happen at WOT (today it did it at about 70%) and I'm not trying to boost while rolling in low RPMs (nothing under 2500). Its really on and off and hasn't thrown a CEL so I'm having a hard time really figuring it out.

What's happening is I'll hit the gas a little harder, for instance when traveling down an on-ramp, and for a half a second to a second or so I get a loss of boost, loss of acceleration, and sort of violent shuddering clunk (stutter?) that you can feel and hear from inside the car.

I'm more than ready to pull my intercooler off and get at the coilpacks to stretch the springs if that's all this is, but I wanted input from all of you to see if that's it or if I'm victim to something much worse. I'm still under warranty for about 2 weeks through MA lemon-law so ill be calling the dealership first thing tomorrow to let them know I'm bringing it in to get checked out Friday. If you guys have any input at all I'd appreciate it since the more info I have by Friday the better.

I freakin love this car, I really don't want there to be something major wrong.
 

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To add to what I just posted: I believe that heat is a factor too. I went out for a ride tonight to see if I could recreate the issue and I couldn't. I was driving for a good 30-40 minutes and pushed the car harder than I have for a while, still nothing. Temperature tonight was only 70 degrees where as during the day its been 85-90ish and sort of humid recently.
 

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.....
What's happening is I'll hit the gas a little harder, for instance when traveling down an on-ramp, and for a half a second to a second or so I get a loss of boost, loss of acceleration, and sort of violent shuddering clunk (stutter?) that you can feel and hear from inside the car...
It sounds like you're getting the infamous "loss of power" issue that is common on some of the `06 models. The official fix for the issue is a dealer ECU reflash, but I don't recommend it. The best fix is to run the best fuel you can find, so the car is happy with the Load/Boost/Timing it is trying to run.

You can replace the spark plugs, stretch the coil springs, etc., and it may help your problem somewhat if those components are worn/marginal, but don't expect it to go away completely..., unless you pop for an AP and use ATR to tune it out yourself...

EDIT: I just read your mods list, so I'll now say your problem is directly related to your mods with no tune to account for the major bolt-ons, along with the chances of poorly installed parts.
 

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Thanks for the response. Yeahhh... Like my sig says I need an AP... You think a tune is the answer to my problems? If that's it I might as well not head to the dealership tomorrow for them to diag, and take my car for a day or so (dealership is an hour away...) Maybe ill just take out a credit card and throw the AP on it and hope that solves my problems and my wife doesn't kill me... Heh. As far as parts not being installed well, I'm gonna go back over everything hopefully tonight, I'm thinking if anything possible a motor mount might need reinstalling/tweaking something like that perhaps? All my parts seem pretty solid but I guess you're absolutely right my car has all these parts pulling a bunch more air in and trying to make more power faster and my ecu is just like "WTF?" Can't figure it out and then the clunking begins... Sound about right?
 

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Yep. Go ahead and pop for the AP and get into the tuning!
 

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Tried recreating it again today, temp is 82 and its a little muggy but nothing, just beautiful smooth boost.. Little bit of lag but nothing bad. If it was tuning do you think it would be less sporadic? Or do you think the air temp is having a huge influence on the issue? I just don't wanna drop $600 and get no where you know?
 

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Can't say for sure without data logs, but the ambient air, coolant, boost, etc., temps will have an effect on the engine performace and targets. The DISI ECU is a fickle beast and runs some algorithms for decision-making that are not yet fully understood. I'm not sure there is a single Mazda engineer that fully understands all that it does and why...

I can tell you though, that you really MUST buy a DashHawk to real-time monitor WTF your engine is doing AND buy an AP to be able to do anything about it reliably. If cash limited I would go with the DH first (NOW!)...
 

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Just out of curiosity why do you recommend not getting the Mazda ECU reflash? Also do you think resetting the ecu by unplugging the battery for whatever the necessary time is may help? Sorry, a lot of questions but you've been a ton of help and I appreciate it.
 

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Just out of curiosity why do you recommend not getting the Mazda ECU reflash? Also do you think resetting the ecu by unplugging the battery for whatever the necessary time is may help? Sorry, a lot of questions but you've been a ton of help and I appreciate it.

We don't know for SURE what the dealer flash changes and some report a noticeable power loss, so I just recommend against it. It only works for STOCK cars as well. Resetting the ECU MAY help for a short time as all the learned trim corrections resulting from your mods are dumped and the ECU starts from zero again. Many folks with untuned mods report the car runs better after a reset, until the ECU makes all the required corrections!

It's all simply educated guessing until you can produce some actual data from the car though. Good Luck without hard data! :D
 

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Thanks for the response. Yeahhh... Like my sig says I need an AP... You think a tune is the answer to my problems? If that's it I might as well not head to the dealership tomorrow for them to diag, and take my car for a day or so (dealership is an hour away...) Maybe ill just take out a credit card and throw the AP on it and hope that solves my problems and my wife doesn't kill me... Heh. As far as parts not being installed well, I'm gonna go back over everything hopefully tonight, I'm thinking if anything possible a motor mount might need reinstalling/tweaking something like that perhaps? All my parts seem pretty solid but I guess you're absolutely right my car has all these parts pulling a bunch more air in and trying to make more power faster and my ecu is just like "WTF?" Can't figure it out and then the clunking begins... Sound about right?
Hey guys I'm having an issue that sounds similar to the shudder/stutter problem but I'm not 100% sure that's really all it is. It doesn't only happen at WOT (today it did it at about 70%) and I'm not trying to boost while rolling in low RPMs (nothing under 2500). Its really on and off and hasn't thrown a CEL so I'm having a hard time really figuring it out.

What's happening is I'll hit the gas a little harder, for instance when traveling down an on-ramp, and for a half a second to a second or so I get a loss of boost, loss of acceleration, and sort of violent shuddering clunk (stutter?) that you can feel and hear from inside the car.

I'm more than ready to pull my intercooler off and get at the coilpacks to stretch the springs if that's all this is, but I wanted input from all of you to see if that's it or if I'm victim to something much worse. I'm still under warranty for about 2 weeks through MA lemon-law so ill be calling the dealership first thing tomorrow to let them know I'm bringing it in to get checked out Friday. If you guys have any input at all I'd appreciate it since the more info I have by Friday the better.

I freakin love this car, I really don't want there to be something major wrong.
To add to what I just posted: I believe that heat is a factor too. I went out for a ride tonight to see if I could recreate the issue and I couldn't. I was driving for a good 30-40 minutes and pushed the car harder than I have for a while, still nothing. Temperature tonight was only 70 degrees where as during the day its been 85-90ish and sort of humid recently.
Tried recreating it again today, temp is 82 and its a little muggy but nothing, just beautiful smooth boost.. Little bit of lag but nothing bad. If it was tuning do you think it would be less sporadic? Or do you think the air temp is having a huge influence on the issue? I just don't wanna drop $600 and get no where you know?
You're probably getting a bit of knock retard, especially if its happening on a hotter day. Check the gap on your plugs. This has been known to cause an issue if the gap is too wide.

Your mods are probably contributing to the problem. Aftermarket air intakes on these cars change the mass air meter readings. The Cp-e intake has a good design that minimizes this effect, but the MAF calculations are going to be off a bit. What happens is the mass air meter is reading less airflow than what is actually going into the engine. This causes the engine to run a bit lean, which increases the chance for knock retard.

The cat-back system also increases airflow to the engine, and combined with the air intake, may be causing you to hit load cut, depending on what gear you are in.

A tuner like the Hypertech Sport programmer will correct your mass air readings for the Cp-e intake, and raise the load and boost cut limits to support your mods.

Chris
 

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Ha Ha! Nice sales pitch there Chris. IMO, the HT would help with the current issue and may satisfy the OP for now. Now here's the big "BUT" associated with the HT tuner:

It is a "canned" or "OTS" tune (I won't get into the debate on how "good" it is, but I've seen the posted dyno results and it certainly looks legit) like the OTS maps for the AP EXCEPT it, the HT tune, can't be altered by the owner or (AFAIK) any other tuner in the field. If the basic mod level and tune is satisfactory to the owner then all is well for slightly less $$ than other tuning solutions. However, if there is a chance you will want to go further, you will need ANOTHER device.

Now, you can sell the HT and recoup some of your initial cash, so it really isn't a bad deal, just not as capable for advancement. Kinda like buying a stock turbo upgrade and finding out you really wanted a BIG turbo...
 

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Thanks Chris I appreciate your response and the insight into the issue.
After reading your post I did a lot of reading on knock retard and it sounds very similar to what's going on, sounds like its from fake knock though based on the descriptions of real vs fake that I read. Did some reading on the hypertech tool too and I'm sorry but as far as that vs cobb ap I don't feel that there is enough of a difference in price to make it worthwhile, I'd rather spend 150-200 more and be able to datalog and more importantly (especially considering what's going on) tune my set up.
I'm going see if anything may be hitting anything in my bay under heavy load (still haven't found time to work on anything...) then I guess ill watch it on the hot days until I can get my hands on an AP. Summers almost at an end anyway haha.

Thanks for all your help guys.
 
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