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Discussion Starter · #1 ·




firstly, this is not an easy install. you must know your way around cars and have a variety of tools. a simple socket set w/ instructions will not do. safety is very important so make sure you take care of yourself before you take care of the mod. do not attempt alone. please read through the entire thread before attempting.

(i also have a cp-e catback installed, so if you have the stock exhaust, more steps may need to be taken to remove the exhaust sections)

tools:
-17mm socket and wrench
-14mm socket and wrench
-ratchet
-jack and 3 stands
-torque wrench
-ratchet extensions
-wheel chauk

optional:
-deep sockets
-5mm allen bit
-14mm crowfoot socket
-additional torque wrench
-loctite red
-teflon tape
-pliers

lets take a look under the vehicle. please note the position numbers drawn on the photos.





1. chauk front wheel(s). jack up the car by the differential coupler housing. place on jackstands.

2. unbolt the endlinks from the spring cup at position 1. requires a 14mm socket. it is a single bolt per endlink. you can also remove the endlink from the sway bar at this point in time. it is a 14mm nut.



3. unbolt the bushings at position 2. requires a 14mm socket and extension or deep socket for the top bolt. there are 2 bolts per bushing.

4. unbolt the rear diff coupler from the subframe at position 3. this is on the passenger's side of the car. requires a 17mm wrench. there are 2 bolts. the bolts are up near the heatshield. the top right of the following photo shows one of the bolts. the other bolt is hidden just to the right.





5. support the rear diff coupler with a jack.

6. unbolt the driveshaft from the rear differential coupler at position 3. requires a 14mm socket with extension or deep socket. there are 4 bolts. the following picture shows what it looks like when unbolted and lowered. do not lower until the next step.





7. disconnect the wire couples from the rear differential coupler. there is one attached to the diff coupler on the driver's side. there are 2 couples on the passenger side. there are 3 places where the wires clip to the frame. you can use pliers here to help remove the clips.





8. have your friend slowly lower the jack. the diff coupler will not fall all the way down, but it will hang at an angle. the driveshaft will fall, so support it with your hands while it separates from the diff coupler. use your extra jackstand to hold it up. remove the jack.

9. support the spring cup with a jack at position 4. remove the 17mm bolt from the spring cup. this will require a lot of work if you do not have airtools. do both sides. lower with the jack and remove the jack.



10. removing the bar. this is the most difficult part. it will require two people underneath the vehicle. the bar will have to be rocked back and forth until you can get it to rest on the diff coupler. there is a raised piece of metal top of the diff coupler that will cause some headaches. you must adjust the bar so that it can pass by this piece at an angle point in the bar.

now one person must pull down on the diff coupler while the other person maneuvers the bar. it will take some force to get it through. once through bring the bar down to where the drive shaft and the coupler were disconnected. now the bar should be resting on the exhaust pipe. you can either remove the exhaust or you can try to move the bar around until you find a place where the bar can slide out. it will take a lot of play, but can be done. i kept the exhaust in place and moved the bar up to position 5 and took the bar out there.

woohoo, half way done. lets take a break and get some pizza.

11a. you can now attach the endlinks if desired. the proper way to do this is shown in the suspension forum under the racing beat rear sway installation thread.

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=51641

it requires a 5mm allen key, two torque wrenches, extensions, and a 14mm crowfoot socket.

the other option you have is to attach the endlinks at the end of the install with loctite red.

11. grease up your bushings with the provided grease, or wrap in teflon tape. wrapping the bushings in teflon tape will help keep the teflon in place rather than having it unravel around the bar. the bushing in the picture is white from the tape. the bushing is normally yellow.



12. put in the new whiteline bar by doing the reverse of the steps above. once up to the rear diff coupler, putting the bar back through the gap will be a little more difficult because you now have an extra 1mm to push through the gap. it will take a lot of effort, but it can be done.

13a. torque those endlinks to the bar. if you have the adjustable bar, the mounting point closer to the bar's center is the stiff position. don't forget to seal the threads with loctite red. on stiff, the endlink is near vertical and the desired position. lining up the endlinks may require jacking up the spring cup and pulling down the bar until the holes line up. the bar may actually be preloaded.



you're done. if i missed any steps, please PM me and i will update the post.

BIG THANKS to atc5 for his help and tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
even tho it was a bitch to install the thing, it's definitely one of my favorite mods so far. the car handles so well now. it eliminated a lot of roll. the ride is a little bit stiffer, but nothing that will get annyoing. in the corners, the car has a little oversteer. the awd does its job to keep the car in line. the rear end does not break loose without a good jolt on the steering wheel.

for those of you thinking about this mod, i recommend that you get this. i do not have springs or any other suspension mods. and at the prices from rpm and SU, u guys will get it at a steal. i paid almost 200 for this and i think its a great bang for the buck mod.
 

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Rear sway bars usually are...

Definately give it some serious steering, and I think you will enjoy it even more, but also I agree, the AWD still gets the car in line rather quickly...

Biggest difference to was what you mentioned in the body roll, I can be driving in a straight line at 50MPH and move the steering wheel back or forth quickly and you get very little roll from the rear of the car....
 

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Wow!!! That sounded like a lot of work. :tear: Very nice write up. Thanks Ryceboi. :cheers: I have to wait to see how much funding I can save up. I would love to get the RSB installed, just not by my lone some. Oh God, too many nice mods. I have to choose between tuning, wishbone engine mount, RSB or Downpipe for next year. Just got the HKS BOV (but installation can wait).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice write up!! This is definitely something I want to do.

How long did this take to complete?
[/b]
heh. 6 hours including a 1 hour pizza break. but your installation time should be less since you now have instructions. we had to determine what needed to be unbolted and how the bar could be removed and other things. i think if everything goes smoothly, it can be completed in 2-3 hours.
 

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Hey man, one thing I haven't done yet... have you launched the car since install? It should make for a better launch, but just wondering.... I haven't done it yet...
 

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Dang, nice right-up. That's the worst sway installation I've ever seen. Luckily it looks like you have easy access to the bushings so re-lubing them should be rather painless.

FWIW, I didn't notice a ride quality difference when going from the stock 6i way bar (18mm?) to the 27mm Racing Beat rear sway, nor did I going from a 20mm to 24mm STI rear sway bar. Front sways are more noticeable, but even then, their impact is slight. Bumps that hit one and only one tire will upset the car a little more than normal, but bumps that hit both tires (like road joints- I find most bumps are like this) aren't changed.

Hey man, one thing I haven't done yet... have you launched the car since install? It should make for a better launch, but just wondering.... I haven't done it yet...
[/b]
It shouldn't make a noticeable difference, but technically it could only hurt grip (if launching on uneven asphalt, for example). On flat asphalt, it will make no difference whatsoever.
 

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Dang, nice right-up. That's the worst sway installation I've ever seen. Luckily it looks like you have easy access to the bushings so re-lubing them should be rather painless.

FWIW, I didn't notice a ride quality difference when going from the stock 6i way bar (18mm?) to the 27mm Racing Beat rear sway, nor did I going from a 20mm to 24mm STI rear sway bar. Front sways are more noticeable, but even then, their impact is slight. Bumps that hit one and only one tire will upset the car a little more than normal, but bumps that hit both tires (like road joints- I find most bumps are like this) aren't changed.
It shouldn't make a noticeable difference, but technically it could only hurt grip (if launching on uneven asphalt, for example). On flat asphalt, it will make no difference whatsoever.
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See here is the issue...

Drag racers for years have been removing the front sway bar and have been installing large rears, and the reason is because torque is a twisting movement, and during a launch of an AWD car that twisting is still there (though not as strong as RWD cars).... a larger rear sway bar will help eliminate twisting and send the car straight, and technically "launch quicker"...

I need to do some more reading, I can't remember a lot of this drag racing technique anymore... i'll let you know what i find...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey man, one thing I haven't done yet... have you launched the car since install? It should make for a better launch, but just wondering.... I haven't done it yet...
[/b]
actually, i havent launched the car since about a week after i installed my catback about 5 months ago. i wouldnt be able to tell the difference if i tried to launch the car now.
 

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Drag racers for years have been removing the front sway bar and have been installing large rears, and the reason is because torque is a twisting movement, and during a launch of an AWD car that twisting is still there (though not as strong as RWD cars).... a larger rear sway bar will help eliminate twisting and send the car straight, and technically "launch quicker"...[/b]
Look at what direction your engine is mounted. The forces you speak of are going to cause the car to squat, not twist. The only twisting force on the car I can think of would be from the spin-up of the driveshaft. Pretty minor.
 

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Look at what direction your engine is mounted. The forces you speak of are going to cause the car to squat, not twist. The only twisting force on the car I can think of would be from the spin-up of the driveshaft. Pretty minor.
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If you see old rear wheel drive drag cars launch, front driver's side rises, sometimes off the ground. It is due to high drive shaft torque in low gears. Same effect on MS6, except it is based on drive shaft torque to rear diff, regardless of engine orientation. With rear lsd, and relatively small shaft torque, dot sure it is an issue here.
 

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If you see old rear wheel drive drag cars launch, front driver's side rises, sometimes off the ground. It is due to high drive shaft torque in low gears. Same effect on MS6, except it is based on drive shaft torque to rear diff, regardless of engine orientation. With rear lsd, and relatively small shaft torque, dot sure it is an issue here.
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Drive shaft torque? I bet most of the force comes from of the "twisting force" comes from the flywheel, crank, clutch, and gears. The inertia of the driveshaft, while important, should be minor in comparison.
 

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Drive shaft torque? I bet most of the force comes from of the "twisting force" comes from the flywheel, crank, clutch, and gears. The inertia of the driveshaft, while important, should be minor in comparison.
[/b]
Sorry, did not mean to suggest d-shaft inerti, just transmitted torque off the line. You see the same thing when a loaded peterbuilt is trying to get rolling witha full load.

Point is engine orientation does not matter regarding this twising of the chassis. FWD's have none. Rwd brings it in unless you have a stiff torqure tube linking eng and diff (porsche 924, 944, 928 ... rear trans axle helps) or you have an offset single traction-bar. I "invented" one of these while showing someone the power of fea, only to find the last year Buick GNX already had one.
 

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I had a question....what size of rear bars are you guys using.....and also are you just doing a rear bar install and leaving the front stock?

Thanks

Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I had a question....what size of rear bars are you guys using.....and also are you just doing a rear bar install and leaving the front stock?

Thanks

Wayne
[/b]
the rear bar is 24mm adjustable. the firm setting is said to act like a 26mm bar. yes, the front is stock.
 

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You can buy the bar from StreetUnit or RPM, both of them have the bar available and are both forum sponsors...

I picked mine up from Cullen at SU, Donny at RPM is also a great guy...

The bar is great :)
 
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