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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got the car back from my new favorite dealer... and let me tell you... I am the new king of the 4WD drift :)

Anyways, as far as install, I got under the car, and decided i'd rather have Mazda do it...

Through an unnamed connection, I paid $100 for the install (A steal!)

From his feedback... you disconnect the old rear bar, disconnect the rear diff, slide the old bar out, put the new one in, and reconnect...

Now for the road test, first let me specify I also have the AutoEXE springs, which definately help balance the car out....

I have the bar on full stiff (I think, I trust the mechanic, I'll have to check...) and I can tell you, ride is not harsher, felt the same.... but when you go into a corner you can tell the difference...

Yes, I know its a 24MM bar, which is only 1MM bigger than the OEM, but because its adjustable (preload the rear suspension).... it really acts like a 26-27MM bar...

I PLOWED into a corner, and anyone who has ever tracked the car or driven it much to fast now what the MS6 feels like going into a corner.... i went in, turned the wheel, before the front wheels had time to understeer the back of the car was already rotated, the AWD went to town and straightened it out...


Would I do it again? Definately, car feels amazing round the bends....
Would I install it myself? Maybe, I get sick laying on my back under the car for more than 5 minutes at a time (don't know why) so if I could get over that it wouldn't be too bad, but having a dealer connection or mechanic friend with a lift would definately help...
Do I think you should buy it? Depends, if you really like to corner the car, without a doubt....

Pictures soon, anyone who has looked at the underside of the rear of the car knows that you can't actually see much.... but I'll get some...
 

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pics, wiggum, pics!!

btw, do you know if a crowfoot socket and allen bit are required for torqueing the endlinks? i know you didnt do the install but was wondering if thats just a universal thing for the installation of any brand rear sway.

glad to hear your review. only 2 more days before i get mine on. install log included. :)

another thing, did u have to correct for the oversteer? im wondering if you have to spin the wheel into the plow or if the awd still corrects the oversteer on its own.
 

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Yeah those Whiteline guys know how to make a car turn. Their bars just arent the prettiest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No idea on the tools...

I'll get some pics, though a full log from you would be good, with pictures of your face of frustration getting the bar out :)
 

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No idea on the tools...

I'll get some pics, though a full log from you would be good, with pictures of your face of frustration getting the bar out :)
[/b]
thanks. i'll make sure to include that. ill even photoshop in a question mark above my head.

so wiggum, about the oversteer? turn into plow or does awd correct it for you?
 

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man make a DIY an di'll buy it now!

ryceboi do u have springs too? "disconnecting the rear diff" sounds like a headache.
 

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man make a DIY an di'll buy it now!

ryceboi do u have springs too? "disconnecting the rear diff" sounds like a headache.
[/b]
no springs for me. disconnected the diff requires removing a few bolts from the bracket thats supporting it. ill just make sure to support the diff with a jack so i dont end up with a differential shaped mark on my forehead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Exactly.... that is what they did...

I could probably go into full detail, but I don't feel like typing it, but basically support the differential and disconnect the bracket...

No turn-in plow, just mild oversteer and then power...

If you get in the power too quick, you will get more and more oversteer...
 

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Wiggum,

Which dealership did you go to? You can PM me if you like.

I have been thinking about this mod as well, btu I can install it myself. I was down there today, went from H Techs to S Techs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wiggum,

Which dealership did you go to? You can PM me if you like.

I have been thinking about this mod as well, btu I can install it myself. I was down there today, went from H Techs to S Techs.
[/b]
Classic...
 

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thanks for the review... might be ordering this bar soon. I WANT TO DRIFT TOO!!! lol...:p
 

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No idea on the tools...

I'll get some pics, though a full log from you would be good, with pictures of your face of frustration getting the bar out :)
[/b]
Do you know how long it took for the install?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
2 hours.... or right around there.... and that is without any instruction.... if purchased from StreetUnit their own instructions will be provided via the installer...
 

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Yes, I know its a 24MM bar, which is only 1MM bigger than the OEM, but because its adjustable (preload the rear suspension).... it really acts like a 26-27MM bar...[/b]
If you are preloading a sway bar, then you're going to have some pretty messed up handling. Preloading is done with adjustable length endlinks to put tension on the bar even when at rest. I don't know why you'd ever want to do this on a street car or even on a race car. Maybe for oval racing where you only turn one direction?

The Whiteline bar I've seen has two mounting points for the endlinks, allowing you to adjust the length of the lever arm on the sway bar. Essentially, you twist the bar more. Because of the stock endlink design (little back-and-forth motion allowed), I have a hard time believing the adjustment brings it to a 26-27mm bar- unless the soft setting is softer than a true 24mm bar.

My guess is, despite Whiteline's literature, that the bar is more like a 23-25mm bar. Some pictures would help clarify this; it'll be easy to see.

I have the bar on full stiff (I think, I trust the mechanic, I'll have to check...) and I can tell you, ride is not harsher, felt the same.... but when you go into a corner you can tell the difference...[/b]
The endlink should be attatched as far in on the sway bar as possible. You want the lever arm to be short for stiffness.

I PLOWED into a corner, and anyone who has ever tracked the car or driven it much to fast now what the MS6 feels like going into a corner.... i went in, turned the wheel, before the front wheels had time to understeer the back of the car was already rotated, the AWD went to town and straightened it out...[/b]
This is very confusing. You plowed (understeered) into a corner and oversteered before the car had time to understeer?

In any event, because sway bars change your handling bias, I think the best way to test them is around a skidpad or long sweepers. How the car handles transitions is based more on the driver. Try going around a big sweeper and see if the rear feels a little looser, or more specifically, if the slip angle of the rear feels like it increased.

At the stiffest setting, the sway bar roll stiffness probably increased around 30%. The sway bar provides around half the roll resistance in the rear (springs do the rest), so total roll stiffness in the rear should have increased (a very guesstimated) 15%. That's going to be a pretty slight difference, but with limited suspension options available, probably worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you are preloading a sway bar, then you're going to have some pretty messed up handling. Preloading is done with adjustable length endlinks to put torsion on the bar even when at rest. I don't know why you'd ever want to do this on a street car or even on a race car. Maybe for oval racing where you only turn one direction?

The Whiteline bar I've seen has two mounting points for the endlinks, allowing you to adjust the length of the lever arm on the sway bar. Essentially, you twist the bar more. Because of the stock endlink design (little back-and-forth motion allowed), I have a hard time believing the adjustment brings it to a 26-27mm bar- unless the soft setting is softer than a true 24mm bar.

My guess is, despite Whiteline's literature, that the bar is more like a 23-25mm bar. Some pictures would help clarify this; it'll be easy to see.
The endlink should be attatched as far in on the sway bar as possible. You want the lever arm to be short for stiffness.
This is very confusing. You plowed (understeered) into a corner and oversteered before the car had time to understeer?

In any event, because sway bars change your handling bias, I think the best way to test them is around a skidpad or long sweepers. How the car handles transitions is based more on the driver. Try going around a big sweeper and see if the rear feels a little looser, or more specifically, if the slip angle of the rear feels like it increased.

At the stiffest setting, the sway bar roll stiffness probably increased around 30%. The sway bar provides around half the roll resistance in the rear (springs do the rest), so total roll stiffness in the rear should have increased (a very guesstimated) 15%. That's going to be a pretty slight difference, but with limited suspension options available, probably worth it.
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The only reason I referred to it is as "preloading" (which I know is done with adjustable endlinks, AWR has that option now for the front, RPM has the rear)... it because in order to get the bar on its stiffer setting you have to jack up the spring cup further to get the bolts to line up, essentially compressing the spring further, correct? The bar basically just has 2 drill holes at the endlink bolt, nothing more to the adjustability...

Not the biggest picture, but you get the idea...

 

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the bar should be at rest when the car is sitting on the ground. if you use a lift or a jack, then you're loading the bar during the install by having the wheels hang down.

stretch, it is whiteline that provided me with the stiffness setting spec. 24mm-26mm adjustable. most 3 way adjustable bars they sell are 4mm apart (20mm - 22mm - 24mm).
 

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stretch, it is whiteline that provided me with the stiffness setting spec. 24mm-26mm adjustable. most 3 way adjustable bars they sell are 4mm apart (20mm - 22mm - 24mm).[/b]
I have Whiteline bars front and rear on my STI and have never gotten a straight answer on what equivalent thickness they really are. The only comment I've ever read on Whiteline's site is a generic one, something to the effect of "Usually this is how they're rated." It's not really important so long as they feel good on the car, I guess. But I digress...

If the stock bar puts the endlink perfectly vertical, then that should be used as the reference point on the Whiteline bar. Since the endlink has very little mobility, I'm guessing the soft setting on the bar connects further outwards than a stock bar, and the firm setting further in. I don't think there is room for the soft setting to mount vertically like stock and still have a firm setting. That's why I'm suggesting it's a 23-25mm equiv, all else being equal. Again, a picture would be helpful.

Maybe they use a different metal or something, making the diameter rating rather meaningless. A benched rate compared to stock (either as a percentage or absolute number) would be much more helpful. Hotchkies does this, Whiteline doesn't, for some reason.
 

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I have Whiteline bars front and rear on my STI and have never gotten a straight answer on what equivalent thickness they really are. The only comment I've ever read on Whiteline's site is a generic one, something to the effect of "Usually this is how they're rated." It's not really important so long as they feel good on the car, I guess. But I digress...

If the stock bar puts the endlink perfectly vertical, then that should be used as the reference point on the Whiteline bar. Since the endlink has very little mobility, I'm guessing the soft setting on the bar connects further outwards than a stock bar, and the firm setting further in. I don't think there is room for the soft setting to mount vertically like stock and still have a firm setting. That's why I'm suggesting it's a 23-25mm equiv, all else being equal. Again, a picture would be helpful.

Maybe they use a different metal or something. Making the diameter rating rather meaningless. A benched rate compared to stock (either as a percentage or absolute number) would be much more helpful. Hotchkies does this, Whiteline doesn't, for some reason.
[/b]
atc5 and i will install tomorrow morning. ill get all the photos and weights and what not. we can reserve assumptions until we have some more facts.
 
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