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Originally posted by mannyack 6S@Dec 24 2004, 08:11 PM
Does anybody know?  Is it mounted on the speaker itself?  Damn, where is the manual when you need one!  :swearin:
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on the sedan i beleive its under the rear seat on the hatch its built into the enclosure in the spare tire.
 

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Originally posted by mannyack 6S@Dec 24 2004, 01:11 PM
Does anybody know?  Is it mounted on the speaker itself?  Damn, where is the manual when you need one!  :swearin:
The sub amp is mounted on the speaker itself. The amp for the rest of the speakers is under the passenger seat.
 

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Originally posted by falcontx@Dec 24 2004, 07:01 PM
The sub amp is mounted on the speaker itself. The amp for the rest of the speakers is under the passenger seat.
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Thanks guys, I thought the damn thing is a self-sustained unit! Guess I got some moding to do :)
 

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Originally posted by zcherian@Dec 26 2004, 08:51 AM
mine is under the shot-gun seat...

front passenger
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Actually, the previous posts are correct: On Bose-equipped 6's, there is an amp under the front passenger seat, but it *only*( powers the door speakers. It sends a signal (the strength of which is up for debate) to the subwoofer mounted to the rear shelf (sedan) or to the spare tire (hatch/wagon), which is powered and has it's own integrated amplifier.

All of this makes for an interesting aftermarket amp/speaker/sub install, but it is possible. It's been discussed in great detail in this forum, allow me to recommend to the original poster some searching depending on what you're trying to accomplish :)

-Peter
 
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Well, I attempted to install my 2 12" Alpine Type R's this weekend and with great success! The subs work beautifully. In my 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch w/Bose system, the sub enclosure came easily out. Then I unscrewed the top of the enclosure to reveal the sub and what looks like a crossover. Everyone keeps calling this an amp, but the problem is, 1st of all it is not big enough to be an amp, second of all, more that just wires to power the woofer go to it. What I did was splice into the 2 green wires leading to the Bose Sub, and the 2 red wires leading to the Bose sub. Red=Positive and green=negative. I then ran high level inputs to a rca line converter and plugged in the RCA's and the system works perfectly, and is loud as hell. I also installed interior blue lights under the seats and under the dash which was pretty easy as well. The hardest part of the sub install was drilling the firewall next to the wire cluster from the engine. From there it was simple hiding of the wires under the paneling. I ran a remote switch to one of the front dummy switches and drilled a hole for my toggle. I will post pictures soon, maybe when the weather gets a lil nicer and my car is clean once again!!! If anyone has any questions about this install let me know, i found it fairly easy and only took a while cause me and my buddy were being extra careful to do it perfect! Also, you will find a good ground under the trunk lid hatch, if you remove that paneling piece, it reveals a great ground that Mazda uses as well. If anyone is interested in a step by step, I can provide that for you as well.
 

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Well, I attempted to install my 2 12" Alpine Type R's this weekend and with great success! The subs work beautifully. In my 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch w/Bose system, the sub enclosure came easily out. Then I unscrewed the top of the enclosure to reveal the sub and what looks like a crossover. Everyone keeps calling this an amp, but the problem is, 1st of all it is not big enough to be an amp, second of all, more that just wires to power the woofer go to it. What I did was splice into the 2 green wires leading to the Bose Sub, and the 2 red wires leading to the Bose sub. Red=Positive and green=negative. I then ran high level inputs to a rca line converter and plugged in the RCA's and the system works perfectly, and is loud as hell. I also installed interior blue lights under the seats and under the dash which was pretty easy as well. The hardest part of the sub install was drilling the firewall next to the wire cluster from the engine. From there it was simple hiding of the wires under the paneling. I ran a remote switch to one of the front dummy switches and drilled a hole for my toggle. I will post pictures soon, maybe when the weather gets a lil nicer and my car is clean once again!!! If anyone has any questions about this install let me know, i found it fairly easy and only took a while cause me and my buddy were being extra careful to do it perfect! Also, you will find a good ground under the trunk lid hatch, if you remove that paneling piece, it reveals a great ground that Mazda uses as well. If anyone is interested in a step by step, I can provide that for you as well.
I am so very new to this and have been trying to hook this amp and 2 subs up to Mazda 6 2008 I have pulled out the stero cut into the rear door speakers and still very lost the power wire is hooked up ground good I have a line out convertor someone stole my bose subwoofer and a couple idiots tried splicing and diving so i am stuck plz help do I I hook the samp under the seat to the LOC or to the front panel I'm so confused lost and frustrated
 

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Well, I attempted to install my 2 12" Alpine Type R's this weekend and with great success! The subs work beautifully. In my 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch w/Bose system, the sub enclosure came easily out. Then I unscrewed the top of the enclosure to reveal the sub and what looks like a crossover. Everyone keeps calling this an amp, but the problem is, 1st of all it is not big enough to be an amp, second of all, more that just wires to power the woofer go to it. What I did was splice into the 2 green wires leading to the Bose Sub, and the 2 red wires leading to the Bose sub. Red=Positive and green=negative. I then ran high level inputs to a rca line converter and plugged in the RCA's and the system works perfectly, and is loud as hell. I also installed interior blue lights under the seats and under the dash which was pretty easy as well. The hardest part of the sub install was drilling the firewall next to the wire cluster from the engine. From there it was simple hiding of the wires under the paneling. I ran a remote switch to one of the front dummy switches and drilled a hole for my toggle. I will post pictures soon, maybe when the weather gets a lil nicer and my car is clean once again!!! If anyone has any questions about this install let me know, i found it fairly easy and only took a while cause me and my buddy were being extra careful to do it perfect! Also, you will find a good ground under the trunk lid hatch, if you remove that paneling piece, it reveals a great ground that Mazda uses as well. If anyone is interested in a step by step, I can provide that for you as well.
Hi,

I've got a 2011 Mazda 6 Hatch with
Bose system, subw in the trunk etc.

Do you still have pictures and more details that you can send me?

I've been thinking about swapping out all speakers and the amp under the passenger seat. I'm not sure if it's really necessary to swap the amp though? It is still doing a great job with the 6.5" elements so maybe i should skip it and just replace every Bose speaker with some Rockford fosgate(got a great deal at our local store) speakers in about the very same specs.

Is it possible to use the Bose sub amp to power another 8" or 10" with a whole new case?

I'm also wondering if you or anyone has swapped the 1" tweeters in the dashboard? I just think they are not doing a good job anymore, and I tried to disconnect them and ran some temporary cables to new tweeters which I fastened with double sided tape on the dashboard and - wow, even though they were not mounted as they should, the treble was so crisp and clear compared to the Bose tweeters.

Do I need to remove all of the door panels to access/swap out the speakers? Is it possible to add some sound/anti vibration panels while I still got(IF needed) the door panels removed? I feel like there is so much unwanted sound when playing above ~30 volume, coming from all over the place even when the car is completely empty of stuff that would make these sound.

Thanks,

Stefan
 
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