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Discussion Starter #1
What gets you further easier and effectively.

An ATP bolt on 3071R turbo kit. And leave other parts stock just have a K&N and catless downpipe.

Or start stacking up bolt on mods but retain the stock K04.



I fell like its just too easy to bolt on a bigger turbo, have cooler air and more power just from the turbo, then chipping away at the bottle necks to make the small K04 better.......


Im not sure there is a mail order tune for any of the above thats a separate entity. But the easy way would be skipping tuning. :rolleyes:
 

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Im relatively new to these cars but from what i learned...if you are swapping the turbo there are so must have's

1. SRI/CAI -- this is a must even with the stock turbo
2. Larger/higher efficiency inter cooler
3. Test-Pipe
4. Oil Change --> Full Synthetic
5. Trans Fluid Change --> redline possibly
6. Rear Engine Mount Upgrade

Anyone else care to add something or correct me if your wrong
 

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Start with bolt-ons.

SRI/CAI, FMIC, BPV, turbo-inlet pipe, downpipe, exhaust and THEN get it tuned. Either way, to get the best bang for your buck, tuning is essential, especially with a bigger turbo.

Also, I'd suggest you do the following before the performance mods so things don't start breaking:

SPC Balljoints and custom alignment
Rear diff mods (there are two mounts for the rear)
Motor mounts

I'm sure there are some more experienced modders on here that have a bit better insight.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I drive my car on the highway. I dont launch it or plan on going to track with it, it is a daily driver. Ive had it for a month now and its fun and all, but I got used and now bored with the low power. I got a 12s weekend car 11s on nitrous. And my last Daily Driver was a 50trim 400WHP SRT-4 can you say torque steer. And before that I had a 03 Cobra with 400WHP daily driven. Now I have a baby seat and need space for the diapers reason behind this MS6 purchase.
Watching the ATP track and dyno numbers seems like a worth while investment to just upgrade the turbo and be done with for a while. Stacking up parts seems like you need a tune to squeeze more out of the K04. Seems attractive to just slap on a credit car $2400.00 dollars and run high 12s low 13s, stock tune and fuel and its bolt on and gets rid of the prone to smoking K04.

Piecing together bolt on mods seems like a hassle, finding the right vendor and mismatching parts for marginal gains.
 

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your going to have to do all thiose mods before you can go with a bigger turbo. U should know that a bigger turbo needs to breathe to b efficient. IE exaust and intake. Also you will have to put on dp, turmbo mani and some other stuff. And yes at that time you will have to replace the different diff and motor mounts fopr reliability. But this is for the other guy. SPC ball joints are not needed. Unless u are lowering the car. Trust me, with bolt ons and few other things it will open the car right up.

So bolt on first then the big turbo. .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Check the website, video show....Their bolt on turbo kit includes downpipe and turbo pipe. Stock fuel, Stock tune, Stock engine, Just a front mount IC.

GT3071R Turbo Kit for Mazdaspeed6 2.3L complete bolt-on (Now Shipping) : atpturbo.com


Bigger turbos can compress more air making the air more dense making more power for the same amount of boost. Im not sure what the stock IC capable of with this turbo kit since they decided to upgrade the IC from the get go.
 

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Check the website, video show....Their bolt on turbo kit includes downpipe and turbo pipe. Stock fuel, Stock tune, Stock engine, Just a front mount IC.

GT3071R Turbo Kit for Mazdaspeed6 2.3L complete bolt-on (Now Shipping) : atpturbo.com


Bigger turbos can compress more air making the air more dense making more power for the same amount of boost. Im not sure what the stock IC capable of with this turbo kit since they decided to upgrade the IC from the get go.
Well there you go! Don't for get about intake and exhaust behind the dp. BOV? So with all that you don't think you'll need a tune. And what about full cut and boost cut. But you know exactly what you need. So why ask questions. Do you think that all commercials tell you everything you need to know. I am upset because you asked for opions but u dismiss those and try top prove us wrong. This car doesn't take as weel to mads as the SRT and EVO. So if you thing it will work great then get it.
 

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if i could do it all again i would get the BT first and do bolt-ons later.

get a BT, intake, and DP and a AP and u will be fine with everything else.
 

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And by the way no one(that i know of) has bought the car and just bought a turbo kit and was done with it. Again with your srt and mustand and your 11sec car you should know that. You know there is more to it, nothing comes easy. And that my sir would be the easy way out. And I would b pretty sure that you will find yourself in deep doo doo if thats thats the route you go.
 

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Well, the other thing you also need to account for if you are adding power is to get an upgraded HPFP, otherwise you will experience fuel cut when you want to get the most power.

But hey, to each their own.
 

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Before you do ANY power modding, it would be wise to invest in a Dashhawk. These care are can be temperamental bitches when it comes to it. It's always good to monitor how your car is reacting to mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well there you go! Don't for get about intake and exhaust behind the dp. BOV? So with all that you don't think you'll need a tune. And what about full cut and boost cut. But you know exactly what you need. So why ask questions. Do you think that all commercials tell you everything you need to know. I am upset because you asked for opions but u dismiss those and try top prove us wrong. This car doesn't take as weel to mads as the SRT and EVO. So if you thing it will work great then get it.

Slow down there before you pop a vain. I did not dismiss anything. I was just watching that video and saw good results and made me wonder why go with crazy bolt ons trying to maximize the K04. I did not make a decision, but maybe there will be someone posting and saying "Hey I got this and this and this and it resulted in a 12second 1/4mile and have = HP then evaluate. Or maybe there will be someone that speaks up about the validity of that ATP run.... Its a controversial post by its nature.
 

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Slow down there before you pop a vain. I did not dismiss anything. I was just watching that video and saw good results and made me wonder why go with crazy bolt ons trying to maximize the K04. I did not make a decision, but maybe there will be someone posting and saying "Hey I got this and this and this and it resulted in a 12second 1/4mile and have = HP then evaluate. Or maybe there will be someone that speaks up about the validity of that ATP run.... Its a controversial post by its nature.
How much WHP do you want to put down? Cause I've seen people put down 270 awhp+ and 315 lb/ft+ (Mustang Dyno) without involving a big turbo, downpipe, or even a FMIC -- just some proper bolt-ons and a good tune. Or if you want to go with a Stage 2 tune, you can expect to be doing 310awhp/360lb/ft, but I'm not sure what that involves and which mods people are doing.

Also, ATP website will tell you that you need the right mods and tune to achieve what they advertise:

Turbo is efficient up to 22 psi on the MS6 2.3L turbo engine and can produce 450 crank HP as configured with supporting mods and proper tuning.
There really aren't any big shortcuts that one can take.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Over 300WHP starts to get fun. But 1/4 MPH is better indication for me about what the car is doing. 110-115MPH a the end of the quarter will take care of alot of cars on the roads.
 

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It's an interesting concept, but you definetly are going to need something to tune with and a dashhawk. Also, I believe someone has gotten the stock TMIC to fit with an ATP turbo, but not sure if that is possible. I would upgrade to a fmic kit if I was you. The reason we do bolt ons is because we don't have the money upfront for the turbo kit and second, you need all those bolt ons to maximize the benefit of going with a larger turbo.
 

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Even if you get the ATP kit, the #1 limiting factor is the ECU itself. As others have said, this car is not a simple throw some parts on and call it good. The DISI turbo engine is nothing like in your previous cars, so it will require more attention to keep it reliably alive.

I recommend you forget the ATP 3071 kit (I still have a complete new ATP 3071 kit that I bought and didn't install, OTHER than the catted DP, for various reasons) and go with the BNR Stage 2 or 3, AND a (must have) COBB AP, AND the COBB SRI, AND the COBB TIP, AND a Dashhawk. If you get these items, you will make good power AND the engine can be tuned properly and you will know it via the DH.

If you don't include these items you will not be happy with the result. Take it or leave it.
 

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people talk about "tuning" your vehicle after modification, sorry this might seem off topic but will someone exlplain to me what it means to get a "tune" ... i've never modded a vehicle before and i'm learning a lot by reading threads but dont understand what is involved with a "tune"
 

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people talk about "tuning" your vehicle after modification, sorry this might seem off topic but will someone exlplain to me what it means to get a "tune" ... i've never modded a vehicle before and i'm learning a lot by reading threads but dont understand what is involved with a "tune"
Well, a very good question that I'm SURE many people who talk about it a lot have no idea what it really means! I'm trying to word an answer that will make sense, so give me a few...

The whole purpose of the modifications are to make more "power", right? Ok, so an engine is basically an air pump. It sucks air in, combines it with some fuel, lights it off either by spark plug or high compression (diesels)and blows the resulting gasses out the exhaust as it forces the piston down to rotate the crankshaft to drive the wheels, etc. In turbo engines, the air is literally forced into the engine under high pressure rather than the engine simply sucking it in.

The only way to make more power is to increase the amount of air either forced or sucked into the engine. Then you add the right amount of fuel for it to burn for best power.

Ok, all that was just a preamble to the TUNE requirement.

The TUNE is required to make sure all the parameters required for the engine to make the best power with the current amount of AIR that is making its way through the engine.

TUNING involves monitoring and adjusting many of the required parameters, such as:

1) air to fuel ratio (AFR) in both open and closed loop operation
2) ignition timing
3) mass air flow (MAF)
4) manifold absolute pressure (MAP= boost/vacuum)
5) load
6) wastegate duty cycle
7) drive by wire throttle duty cycle
8) pedal position output scaling
9) cam timing

These (few) data points are ALL adjustable within the ECU using "flash" programming like the Cobb AP and a few of them can be adjusted outside the ECU by "interceptor" tuning using piggyback devices that splice into the wires from the sensors, intercept the signals, make changes and send them to the ECU. In this case, the ECU processes them normally, but the inputs are manipulated to get desired outputs....

Get it? LOL
 
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i feel like i see a lot of mzr engines running 3071 and 3076's on less then 15 lbs of boost because they dont have the supporting mods to really use the turbo. now i fully understand a 3076 at 15 psi will make an assload more torque adn power than the k04. however IMO i just hate lag and thats a great way to have massive lag with just decent power. i know were not all millionares here or else we would be on the gtr or 911 forums here (i probably would lol) but i just think its smarter to get all the mods needed to support a big turbo properly first.

fuel pump
accessport
exhaust
intercooler
mounts all around

then when your ready manifold (i will do intake and exhaust), turbo, 3 inch intake, and tune.

then once your done with that and you blow your motor and fry your clutch you can then spend the rest of your hard earned money on forged internals and a new clutch.

seems easy enough to me............now who ready to throw down the cash?
 
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