[wasntme]

Okay.... this is VERY open-ended but I thought I would tyr it out anyways.

I have a 2006 MazdaSpeed6. I want to upgrade the absolutely horendous "Bose" audio while keeping the headunit. I have $1000 to spend and I want a system that will primarily have good sound, not extremely bassy but good fidelity all around.

What would you buy? Can you provide model numbers and/or links? Would you buy it all at once or piece meal? Which would be best?

 

[Daishi]

I would look at sonicelectronix.com and woofersetc.com they have some pretty good prices. Something along the lines of CDT audio or MB Quart Q series.

What do you plan on getting just speakers and 4 channel amp or do u want a sub too?

 

[wasntme]

I would like to complete the entire system. That includes sub and amp too. The "Bose" system that is included really is weak and that 9inch sub kinda blows. It's been forever since I have worked on any car audio so I wanted to see what someone would do with my system if they had $1,000.

 

[Daishi]

Give me a few minutes and ill see if i can link you a setup i would do if i only had 1,000. Its gonna be tough for everything tho cuz you cant wire that to an aftermarket head unit can you? I would wait till the metra kit comes out for the speed but ill link you some stuff.

 

[wasntme]

I would like a new headunit but metra has been dragging their heals

 

[VAN~MZD~6]

Woofersetc.com was a good recommendation.

I'd go...

Eclipse XA5000 bridge channels 1&2 and 3&4. That will give you 150W RMS x 2 and still 300W RMS for the sub channel.

Image Dynamics ID12D2 V.3 - One of these wired in series should fit rather nicely.

CDT Audio CL-61A-25 PRO - For your front components

Just remove the rear speakers, because when you are pushing 150W to the front, you won't hear or need the rear door speakers anyway.

Total shipped price for all three of those items is about $810. Leaving you almost $200 to build an enclosure and/or amp rack and purchase your amp kit. Could even save some while waiting for the new metra kit to come out for the 06 and up mazda6. Then you can buy a better HU and possibily throw in some decent coaxails in the rear for fill.

Just one of a million possibilities, it's kinda late so thats the best I got right now with knowing more about what you want to get out of your system and what kind of music you mainly listen too.

 

[Daishi]

Speakers: 6.5"
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_6173.html

Speakers Rear 5.25"
Keep stock bose.

2 Channel amp for fronts:
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_6335.html

Subwoofer:
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_4243.html

Amp for subwoofer:
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_6522.html (be careful with the gain on this amp its capable of 1200RMS and the sub is 500RMS but many people run a good 700 to it with no problems)

Woofersetc.com was a good recommendation.

I'd go...

Eclipse XA5000 bridge channels 1&2 and 3&4. That will give you 150W RMS x 2 and still 300W RMS for the sub channel.

Image Dynamics ID12D2 V.3 - One of these wired in series should fit rather nicely.

CDT Audio CL-61A-25 PRO - For your front components

Just remove the rear speakers, because when you are pushing 150W to the front, you won't hear or need the rear door speakers anyway.

Total shipped price for all three of those items is about $810. Leaving you almost $200 to build an enclosure and/or amp rack and purchase your amp kit. Could even save some while waiting for the new metra kit to come out for the 06 and up mazda6. Then you can buy a better HU and possibily throw in some decent coaxails in the rear for fill.

Just one of a million possibilities, it's kinda late so thats the best I got right now with knowing more about what you want to get out of your system and what kind of music you mainly listen too.[/b]

I would only bridge speakers if they are subs.. wouldnt bridge front stage speakers cuz that will double your THD.

 

[wasntme]

Thanks guys!

Sounds good. I have a couple weeks before this goes down, but I am definitely going to look into this gear. Thanks again.

 

[VAN~MZD~6]

Somebody must like MaxxSonics...

I don't like the sound of the newer MB Quarts since MaxxSonics purchased them a few years ago.

Personally I don't think you can go wrong with CDT and ID. Plus Eclipse's new amplifiers are pretty nice.

Not to mention if you go dual amps, then you gotta spend a little more on the wiring for a distribution block and extra fuses. Just an opinion for keeping under the budget and still getting better than good sound.

I would only bridge speakers if they are subs.. wouldnt bridge front stage speakers cuz that will double your THD.[/b]

People bridge front stage all the time. It's not a noticable change in terms of sound quality.

 

[Daishi]

Reason i chose the maxxsonics was because they sound good are cheap and get the job done.. The ID's are a very nice choice also.. It really depends on what you want to do.. actualy what i would recommend over the MB Quarts and the CDT's would be a set of these.

http://car.rainbow-audio.de/products/detai...&art=231150

contact 6spdcoupe at caraudio.com/forum he can get these for a very good price i think around 200 if im not mistaken.

EDIT:

The type r would hit harder over the ID sub you chose their but since money is a huge factor here go with the ID sub it does take less power keep the Eclipse amp he suggested but switch the CDT speakers for the rainbows. And you should have a pretty nice system considering the 1000 u have to work with.


I would also do a 2 cubic foot ported box tuned to 30-33hz with the ID sub should sound nice and get quite loud

 

[VAN~MZD~6]

If you read his first post. He doesn't want anything bassy. Thats why I recommended the ID sub. It's much clearer than any alpine and if he puts it in a sealed enclosure, he should get nice clear smooth bass.

 

[Daishi]

He said he doesnt want anything extremely bassy.. but then whats the point of a sub so you can hear retarded thuds because you put it in a tiny sealed enclosure? if you put it in a nice ported box tuned to the right frequency it will sound just as good as a sealed box. All depends on what he thinks loud is.. some people think 135db is real loud but i dont since i listen to systems all the time that go much louder than that really depends.

 

[wasntme]

I think loud isn't bad as long as it's CLEAR (I love loud music). I have heard so many shitty systems that think loud is BOOM BOOM BOOM. I want to hear all levels (mids, highs and lows) at the extremes, not just the thud or thump of the bass totally drowning out every other note. I prefer to have them sound clear as well. I guess I may be picky with just a grand to spend but I think that should be perfectly suitable considering that no head-unit is included in that cost.

 

[VAN~MZD~6]

Ported is never gonna sound as clear as sealed. It's just not possible. You get louder boomer "boom boom" bass from a ported enclosure. I've been to quite a few SPL and SQ competitions and built some boxes for a couple competitors. Sealed is always used in SQ comps and like wise, almost never used in SPL. I'm sure he'll be more than satisfied with the ID sub. If you could/want to spend $30 over your 1000 limit. I'd go with a JL 12W6V2. Thats probably one of the best SQ subs I've ever heard. And you could wire that down to 2 ohm and push 450W to it with that same eclipse 5 channel amp.

 

[Daishi]

IF you do the ported box rite it would sound real good. Pfff forget the JL w6 just get a Fi Q or SSD lol