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Discussion Starter #1
To those who have rebuilt an MZR DISI 2.3, what did you use to hold the cams? The manual specifies a special service tool.

I suppose I could fab something up out of some mild steel plate stock.

Is there an easy solution for this?
 

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Mark at Street Unit rents them out.
 

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QUOTE (steve12345 @ Feb 16 2010, 10:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1637402
To those who have rebuilt an MZR DISI 2.3, what did you use to hold the cams? The manual specifies a special service tool.

I suppose I could fab something up out of some mild steel plate stock.

Is there an easy solution for this?[/b]
Disclaimer:

What ever info that is given after answering this question and directly resulting in someone building their motor improperly is of no one fault but the builder.

I do understand you are currently not asking how to build it but I feel this my be brewing from it.

I have pictures and I believe I can get a part number for you if need be. This tool is only for two reasons. 1 to lock the cams down while tightening the timing belt. 2 to make sure the your cams are TDC.

You also need a blind plug to lock the crank down. There is a tool to lock the crank pulley and the oil pump as well. These two tool(crank and oil pump) are really not needed.
 

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How much?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you have a welder, die grinder, and a cutoff wheel, this was made with $38 worth of 3" x 1/4" cold rolled steel. Would have been less, but I bought extra just in case I messed up.

Cut the pieces
Grind the edge from .250" to .225"
Weld the first two pieces
Mark the location of the last piece and tack it
Verify fit
Finish welding

Done.


Worked perfect.

 
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How do you know they are flat and parallel with the block and each other?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
QUOTE (JumpingJackson @ Feb 20 2010, 01:19 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1638352
How do you know they are flat and parallel with the block and each other?[/b]
Weld it in a vise.
Lay the finished assembly on a flat surface and check for flatness.

The exhaust cam sits so that the groove in the end of the cam is level with the head casting surface. It has to lay flat or it won't clear the casting.
 

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+1 for creativity. Im sure that jig would work fine.
 

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Yeah I dont see a reason that it shouldnt work and I also dont see why vendors dont offer it for $50. It would sell like hot cakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
QUOTE (djuosnteisn @ Feb 21 2010, 10:17 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1638568
+1 for creativity. Im sure that jig would work fine.[/b]

Not having a key to hold a cam or crank balancer scares me, but I guess they know what they're doing.


I fired it up and drove it today. Just need to let the clutch break in and I'll see how it does.
 

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This is the part and number that you need for the cams..
 
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Charles, find a clean wall to shoot the picture in front of next time. lol
 
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