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I'm not looking for what causes our brakes to make noise (needing to replace the pads), but what actually causes them to scream?

I ask because I changed my front pads out a couple of months ago, and my pads are screaming at me as if they need to be changed. The pads themselves still look almost brand new. I have taken everything apart several times and cleaned everything up. But within a few very easy stops, they start to scream at me all over again. Not only is this annoying, but I hate being "that guy" on the road.

Any ideas on how to resolve this other then getting new pads again?


ßill
 

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1. pad compound
2. quality of pad (pad geometry affects resonance and some good quality pads have an elastomer coated shim backing)
3. whether you install anti-squeal shims or not and condition of shims and hardware
4. whether you coat the back of pad, piston, and shims with grease/anti-squeal.
5. whether the caliper pins are greased adequately and the if the rubber bushing on the end of pin is in good condition.
6. whether pads are properly bed in
 

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what this guy said^^^^^^^
 

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if your doing brakes its always 100 times better to do pads and rotors at the same time. sometimes just doing pads youl be ok but most of the time it makes noise after a little while. Ive found putting grease only on the guide pins is the best and not on the back of the pads. That stuff just absorbs all the dirt on thats kicked up and gets nasty quick.
 

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I did rotors/pads at 45K, now at 55k. Installed Centric Premium rotors, and Raybestos (front semi-metallic), (rear ceramic) as OEM wanted.

My problem: the front rotors seem to be warped a bit which bothers me, and the brakes are squeaking when the brake pedal is depressed to a certain amount.

Looking at the brakes (RX8 wheels help lol), the rotors and pads seem close to brand new. I never try and brake very hard, never been to the track, etc.

What can I do to fix these issues? I was thinking to have the rotor re-cut uniform, and maybe try different front pads such as organic? Don't know what to look for though...

I'll be honest I think we did everything right on the install job a year ago, but I don't remember bedding them in correctly (60/80mph-10mph 8 times). One of my rear pads doesn't look properly bedded in (only half or so hitting the rotor).

Or should I just take all the brakes off and do like the flinstones?

Thnx guys.
 

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if your doing brakes its always 100 times better to do pads and rotors at the same time. sometimes just doing pads youl be ok but most of the time it makes noise after a little while. Ive found putting grease only on the guide pins is the best and not on the back of the pads. That stuff just absorbs all the dirt on thats kicked up and gets nasty quick.
by grease on the guide pins i hope you mean lube. because if you put anti-seize grease on them you risk the chance of them freezing up. a good mechanic friend of mine recommend only to use lubricant on them to avoid this.
 

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Get pick up some anti- squeal stuff or some high temp grease
remove calipers
clean pads & calipers where they contact
apply anti-squeal stuff of choice to back of pads where they contact caliper or piston
- - (I used the stuff that came with my Hawk pads)
reassemble
test drive
enjoy quiet

- - If rotors are warped, have them turned while in there.


Shortest version, pads vibrate.
stop the vibration, stop the noise.
 
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I bed in the brakes and it seems like all my issues are solved! No more squealing, my rear drivers rotor is fully scraped to the pad, and it was also making noise before while first running from cold, seemed to have stopped.
Instructions for bedding in your brakes

Thanks though TiGray. The warp to them still bothers me but it's not too bad and something I can live with. If I got them cut it wouldn't take too much good rotor away right?
 

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ANything that helps prevent vibration is a good thing- bedding the rotors keeps them satisfied......

AS for blanks -vs- slotted or drilled-
I am a fan of slotted for one particular reason- Florida Rain.

It is very possible to have a layer of water build up between the pad & rotor. It only takes a second to clear, but a second when your standing on your brakes can, literally, be a lifetime. Slotted sheds water.

I have run Stage 1 brake upgrades including slotted rotors on many different rideso over the years, and have never warped a single rotor.
(Speed6, Nissan Z31 & Z32, VW GTI, Audi A4, wife's GTP)
 
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