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Discussion Starter #1
OK. this problem seems to only happen when the car is cold, as its only happened in the last few days which have been 35-45 degrees.

anyway, i start the car, pull out, when i slip in the clutch, all is normal, when i release the clutch at the end of its travel, the car BUCKS violently. to fix the problem, i push back in the clutch. when the car gets warm ( or i assume the clutch, or related parts,) the problem ceases.


im bringing the car back to winter / as close to stock as possible, today, and i would like input on what you guys think it might be.?
 

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Hey Arch.

What is it that seems to cause the bucking? Does it feel like the clutch is grabbing really quick? Or is the engine misfiring?

Just a couple of ideas off the top of my head:

1. Broken engine mount(s)

2. CAI may be the culprit

#2 sounds weird I know, but in my experience a less restrictive intake seems to make the engine more prone to missing, sputtering at low rpms.

I could be way off. Just my $0.02...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the #2 might be the issue, i understand what your talking about, in open loop, the car gets squirrley a bit.


ive swapped back to the stock intake, with the bypass, no issues thus far, it hasnt repeated itself. it was VERY weird. it was so weird i really dont have an explanation for it. the only thing that makes sense to me is the clutch engagement sensor was fucked up, somehow... and that makes the most sense.


well, i just hope it doesnt happen again.
 

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my car does this as well. I thought this was "normal" because I read it in a thread it was like suburus tranny where when its cold it "bucks"?

I have no performance mods on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its pretty violent man, you cant really drive the car like that... it would stall most likely.
 

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My car does the same thing, I have to stock intake, and the CPE mount. I think it's the clutch judder, since it goes away after driving for a bit.
 

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Yeah, sounds like clutch judder to me as well. I have that problem every once in a while in the cold. Once the car warms up, it's never a problem. Since it seems like some individuals were able to get their clutch replaced under the normal 4yr/50k warranty, I might do that before my warranty ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i wouldnt classify this as judder. more like HELL.


your thrown about in the car, violently. the tires screetch sometimes. it only happens when the clutch is all the way out.

i can make it happen again, in first and second by jabbing on the throttle a little bit. it also starts happening when i go over bumps.


it happened again today, for a solid 20 mins of driving, before it went away. i got a CEL. will scan it tommorow.
 

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This is without your CP-E intake?

It could be your CP-E connection, the one connection where you had to cut the lines and route it to the box. I had a similar issue. When I put on the stock airbox w/ the CP-E bypass the issue went away. Basically, after the clutch was out completely, it feels like the car surges then wants to cut out, then surges again and then wants to cut out. I had to either clutch in or not hit the gas for a few seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
this is with the stock airbox and bypass module in, all connections soldered.


after much thought last night, im starting to think that this is the throttle body. it makes perfect sense.

the throttle body throws itself into safe mode when it finds that its not working properly. which is near low rpm/ idle rpm. this would definatley explain the surging back and forth as the throttle body is basically cutting air to the engine then letting some in, the cutting air to the engine, thus surge surge surge. also, it would explain how the car is dying when the clutch is fully engaged just stalling out with no load. i also got a CEL today, which should either be caused by the issue or be the cause of the issue. will report back.

i knew my throttle body has been bad for awhile, it once stalled my car out on the freeway at 55 mph. when the car would try to die, the rpm's would drop, and they couldnt be helped by my throttle input or anything, (electronic throttle anyone?) it is the same here, when the car is bucking, even if i floor the throttle, nothing happens. i believe my throttle body is just completely messing with the car. i hope the CEL says so.

my throttle body is version "AA" which, according to the tsb is the bad part.


what do you guys think about that idea. im wanting to rule out the clutch because it feels fine when engaging/ disengaging. i do have a slight clutch judder, which i will also bring the tsb for when i go in, but as of now, im going to tell them everything, then, as my solution, point at the throttle body, and explain to them what ive explained to you.
 

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It sounds like you may be on to something there. From the way you described the symptoms a problem with the clutch is one of the last things I would guess. The clutch is probably one of the simplest systems in the car (entirely mechanical / hydraulic). It sounds like vehicle electronics are wreaking havoc on your car...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
2 codes.

P0340 CMP sensor (RH) circuit malfunction ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC P0340 [AJ] .)

(crank position sensor)


P2112 Throttle actuator control system - stuck close ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC P2111, P2112 [AJ] .)

(throttle body stuck)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok problem update, seems to have been a loose ecu harness. i didnt bolt it all the way in when i soldered all of my maf connections in... kinda weird, but the problem hasnt come back.
 

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ok problem update, seems to have been a loose ecu harness. i didnt bolt it all the way in when i soldered all of my maf connections in... kinda weird, but the problem hasnt come back.
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still think u should get that throttle body replaced.

this fellow had the exact same code as you and it turned out to be a bad throttle body.

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?s=&a...st&p=723018
 

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ok problem update, seems to have been a loose ecu harness. i didnt bolt it all the way in when i soldered all of my maf connections in... kinda weird, but the problem hasnt come back.
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That's good you figured it out. Question for you (Off topic), how did you solder the wires? expose both wires, twist, then solder?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yeah, cut stripped, soldered.



the reason why im not jumping on a new throttle body yet, is the fact that i first pulled a cam sensor code... which is entirely different and random, from a throttle body code.


and the fact that the car would hesitate and studder after a bump. meaning somthing was loose.

that is all gone now, the car feels solid. no issues what so ever.
 
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