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Weighted Miata 6MT Shift Knob Mod

72934 Views 190 Replies 33 Participants Last post by  Teamspeedy


I had the chance to test drive the NC shift knob earlier today. My throws are more confident, less effort and most noticeably...the downshifts from 5th to 4rth and from 3rd to 2nd, are more assuring (the stock knob seems "unsure" in feel when I engine brake, esp from sliding the shifter from 5th to 4rth notch...a feeling somewhat that it might go to 2nd). Essentially, throws overall are way smoother. Also, this solid aluminum/leather NC shift knob is more elegant and sportier in looks and feel in your hand (the buttery smooth semi-matte black leather blends very well to the leather steering wheel, etc and does not look "out of place" vs other shift knobs). It is also as I estimate, substantially 4-5X heavier than the cheaply light, hollow bodied, plastic stock shift knob.

Quality well Made in Japan (for $95, shipped to my door)..somewhat pricey for a shift knob, but well worth it. I am quite happy with this OEM mod. :)
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I ended up getting this:

Made some pre measurements and looks good,'s a buy.

$19.88 shipped (includes a Sickspeed decal) from Yakima, WA (to CA, that'll be quick)....I'll post installed pics as soon as I get it. :)
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They need to make a bronze one. Would be a nice tie-in with the wheels

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That's going to be too long if you're using it with the Miata knob. The gap between the bottom of the knob and the boot that needs filled is about .340" (+/- a bit depending on how far down you screw the knob)

It would work well with a knob that has threads all the way to the bottom such as a design similar to a simple round ball.
We'll, if it would...the knob would be a sliver taller then (okay). I'm more after the improved shifts (achieved that)..the top height of knob (and/or the gap below), secondary. After all, it's only $20. With or without (adjusted boot folds, as in pics)'s fine. Options..on hand. :)
I was looking at how they add a heavier shift knob at the site where the solid bushings are sold. They have instructions there for the Mazda 3 2014 Shift Knob Installation Instructions.pdf

They added the spacer (the nice brace piece above) below the boot cover. Another option to go. It

They also have instructions for installing the solid bushings. Looks fairly straight forward. Likely similar to our M6. I am surprised that change could make such a big difference.
With the spacer UNDER the boot; note that you lose the anti-rotation notch on the boot by putting it there; hold the boot stationary while installing the knob.

Appearance is "as if factory" in this instance; a stack of fender washers of the appropriate thickness and with the correct-sized center hole would likely work fine since when the knob is installed they're under enough compression to keep things from moving around. There is enough boot room for this to work fine without causing the boot to come taut in any of the gear positions.

Also, be careful not to overtighten the knob if you do it this way -- that retention piece which is part of the reverse lock-out protection spring is plastic and you could conceivably break it.


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What is the size of the center hole for the washer? I was planning to stop by Homedepot and pick them up.
10mm, which is almost-exactly .400" A 3/8" (.375") will NOT go.
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Just finished installing plastic spacer that had come with TV Wall Mount kit. Came out perfect (just like the pictures posted before).

Taking the console apart is no big deal, so anybody trying to avoid doing that, don't :rolleyes:
BTW if anyone is wondering if I think this changes the feel of the shifting materially - it does.

By quite a lot, and all in the positive direction.
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Look what the cat dragged in..have 2 of these (similar to hockey puck material hard rubber) grommets, on hand. Gives new meaning to the term.."Garage Find". :D

I measured the inner diameter hole..and it's approx 0.40". With the proper know where this slides under. Options, indeed...;)
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Well well..... Cut that off cleanly to the correct length and under the boot she goes. .350" should be about right (you can always sand it down a bit to make it shorter and/or to correct a bit if your cut is not exactly straight...)
I've been tracking the Sickspeed (it's location is now local)..and it should pretty much arrive by tomorrow. We'll see if that is a "no go"..if so, this will.
Given the stock shifter is pretty much junk after this, do you guys think cutting the base of the stock shifter and using that as a spacer would work? I was thinking some tape and a fine hack saw.
Junk? You mean just because you're going to throw it away? Well, ok, you could do that -- but do put it on the inside of the boot -- it will look like hell on the outside.
Yeah, I'm not sure about that one.
Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking the outside. If I go inside, I would use washers or something.
The inside arrangement looks 100% stock (pic above); no binding on the boot at all. I'm torn between that and the external, "has nice brass accent" look.
I compared my 2001 miata shifter throws with my M6 before I sold it and my impression was the angle of throws was about the same, maybe a tiny bit less angle to the throws with the miata. The length of the throw is MUCH larger with the M6 vs the miata. The length of the throw relative to the angle of the throw is specifically determined by the height of the knob from the center of rotation of the shift lever ball.

We don't need some fancy short shifter kit to get good short throws with the 6 we just need a shorter shift lever.

That being said, Why go through the hassle of adding a spacer or fiddling with the boot, when you can cut some threads off the end of the lever and drop the knob achieving the holy grail of shifter feel similar to the miata?

There would be more than enough threads left to hold and lock the knob in place, and if you ever put the factory knob back on it would be fine too, because again still enough threads to lock rotation and it would just bottom out on the boot.

I mentioned before using a hacksaw is prety ruff on the shifter mechanism, but using a dremel with a metal curring disk should go through pretty smooth.

Of course I'm on the outside looking in on all this because I'm too cheap to spend $95 on this upgrade. I'm already over my limit on the interior with the wood trim I have on on order.
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