So ExB5, these knobs just unscrew off / screw on? That easy? How much effort? I'm wondering if with time one needs to be tightening them due to use.Guys, I noticed too that the "crunching" from 1st-2nd is nearly non-existent now, with this weighted NC knob. I tried to so some quick shifting without pausing (split sec in neutral) and I did not feel any crunchy sensation at all. Granted I did a few of those shifts when slowing down towards the garage earlier (it could be due to a hot syn transmission fluid)..however, I will do more observations on NC knob, by tomorrow.
But one thing is for sure..shifting is now effortless and smooth, as compared to the hollow, plastic light stock knob. Now, I just merely "flick" the shift knob using my index and middle finger with less force to slide it to the appropriate gear notch..and it goes in, the right and smooth way. The more I use this heavy alum/leather knob..the more I feel I made the right choice spending (the pricey) $95 dead presidents.
Weighted Miata 6MT Shift Knob Mod
6
Before:
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After:
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I had the chance to test drive the NC shift knob earlier today. My throws are more confident, less effort and most noticeably...the downshifts from 5th to 4rth and from 3rd to 2nd, are more assuring (the stock knob seems "unsure" in feel when I engine brake, esp from sliding the shifter from 5th to 4rth notch...a feeling somewhat that it might go to 2nd). Essentially, throws overall are way smoother. Also, this solid aluminum/leather NC shift knob is more elegant and sportier in looks and feel in your hand (the buttery smooth semi-matte black leather blends very well to the leather steering wheel, etc and does not look "out of place" vs other shift knobs). It is also as I estimate, substantially 4-5X heavier than the cheaply light, hollow bodied, plastic stock shift knob.
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Quality well Made in Japan (for $95, shipped to my door)..somewhat pricey for a shift knob, but well worth it. I am quite happy with this OEM mod.
After:
Quality well Made in Japan (for $95, shipped to my door)..somewhat pricey for a shift knob, but well worth it. I am quite happy with this OEM mod.
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Yes Caliche...very straightforward in swapping (no need to read the 2 page included instructions). Counter clock unscrew the old, hollow plastic stock..clockwise screwing the NC knob = <1min. I tightened it to the max allowable and the shift pattern is precise..straight and true. This knob is elegant albeit sporty...is not out of place and coordinates very well to the black interior. Nice feel on your hands and the shifting...real sweet (compared to the cheaply light and hollow stock).
Nice! Thanks, for the link @ExB5!Ah, the bushings...you beat me to it, Brandon. I was thinking of mentioning that mod as well earlier today.
JBR has these, albeit for the 2014 Sky-Activ M3 (I highly doubt it if these are any different to our M6 6MT shift assembly...you know, parts sharing). To replace the soft, rubber bushings for that responsive, improved shifts.
It's only $25/free shipping to your door.
"Details: JBR Solid Shifter Bushings replace the stock Mazda rubber grommets that hold the shifter cage to the floor board. The JBR Solid Shifter Bushings create more responsive shifts in your Mazda. Having solid spacers removes the sloppy feeling and greatly improves shifting accuracy and your driving experience.
Includes:Solid Shifter Base Bushings
NO CEL Guarantee
Installation instructions are available in our support section
Shipping is free in the US & our Hassle Free Lifetime Warranty is included"
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Solid Shifter Bushings Mazda 3 2014+ [SKY-MZ3-SSB] - $25.00 : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication
Now if we have or anyone in the know to DIY dismantle the console to reach the shift assembly..we're golden.
We have the FSM floating around now to help with the install.
Guys, you would be surprised how a simple and innocent as a weighted knob would do wonders to your 6MT.
See, I wasn't expecting too much from it at first (mod knobs on prior rides were not that heavy, more analogous in wt and material vis-a-vis origs)..but now, I cannot imagine how would I do without.
The hollow neck of the OEM GJ shift knob is one likely culprit for the "crunchy" vibration to resonate altroughout the whole knob...and to you rt hand. The weight and heft of this NC knob helps alot in engaging to the right gear gate. Btw, I did a few more swift 1st-2nd shifting yesterday and earlier today...all smooth and no crunchies.
See, I wasn't expecting too much from it at first (mod knobs on prior rides were not that heavy, more analogous in wt and material vis-a-vis origs)..but now, I cannot imagine how would I do without.
The hollow neck of the OEM GJ shift knob is one likely culprit for the "crunchy" vibration to resonate altroughout the whole knob...and to you rt hand. The weight and heft of this NC knob helps alot in engaging to the right gear gate. Btw, I did a few more swift 1st-2nd shifting yesterday and earlier today...all smooth and no crunchies.
In for pics!
Oh, and feel free to make another one of those spacers for me.
Oh, and feel free to make another one of those spacers for me.
I adjusted the boot and reconfigured the folds to limit the gap between the bottom chrome of shift knob and top of boot. When I push the knob down, it stops to the top of boot.
But frankly, the gap never really bothered me (to be too anal about it). If fact, the bright side..it prevents my fingers from gripping or touching the top of boot, when I'm about to shift. If I want to get rid of it (the gap)..I'm thinking of slapping a good, grippy HD type round velcro (with a hole for the shift lever rod to pass through) to pull the boot taut (at every boot movement). One side, on top of boot..the other, just below the chrome bottom trim.
Sidebar: I am REALLY loving and enjoying the :drive: now...with this weighted NC knob, the more often I use it. The much improved shifting makes me from ear to ear.
But frankly, the gap never really bothered me (to be too anal about it). If fact, the bright side..it prevents my fingers from gripping or touching the top of boot, when I'm about to shift. If I want to get rid of it (the gap)..I'm thinking of slapping a good, grippy HD type round velcro (with a hole for the shift lever rod to pass through) to pull the boot taut (at every boot movement). One side, on top of boot..the other, just below the chrome bottom trim.
Sidebar: I am REALLY loving and enjoying the :drive: now...with this weighted NC knob, the more often I use it. The much improved shifting makes me
from ear to ear.
NOW the shift knob installation is done....
The OD of the bushing was cut to match the bottom of the tapered portion of the knob. I considered going ~.100" larger in diameter BUT then I would have had to machine a "cup" to fit the knob bottom and there would be the risk for snags and cuts; as it was I chamfered the corners a bit to take the edge off. It leaves just a bit of a side gap on the boot but there is no play in the bushing or boot with it installed. Looks very, very close to being factory.
The OD of the bushing was cut to match the bottom of the tapered portion of the knob. I considered going ~.100" larger in diameter BUT then I would have had to machine a "cup" to fit the knob bottom and there would be the risk for snags and cuts; as it was I chamfered the corners a bit to take the edge off. It leaves just a bit of a side gap on the boot but there is no play in the bushing or boot with it installed. Looks very, very close to being factory.
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