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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My water pump has failed after only 67K miles. I started to replace it but can't figure out how to get the camshaft pulley off. It looks like the camshaft pulley has to be removed in order to remove the water pump. I'm I correct in thinking this? While I'm posting here, has anyone found a shop manual for the 2003 Mazda 6? I ordered one of those cdrom manuals, but it turned out to be for a European 4 cyl. model.
 

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I have an engine manual in paper back. I have used it in the past but I am not sure if it shows how to remove the cam shaft pully. If I understand correctly that pully is not held on the shaft with a nut or bolt. I haven't seen my car in 3 months so I don't remeber(getting the turbo put on) I can take a look when I have a chance and see if there is anything there to help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have an engine manual in paper back. I have used it in the past but I am not sure if it shows how to remove the cam shaft pully. If I understand correctly that pully is not held on the shaft with a nut or bolt. I haven't seen my car in 3 months so I don't remeber(getting the turbo put on) I can take a look when I have a chance and see if there is anything there to help you out.[/b]

The pulley is not held on with a nut or bolt. There isn't even really a place to put a puller. If you could take a look at your book, I'd be greatful. Where did you get your book. Autozone and Checker dont carry one.

Thanks
 

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Its not a complete manual. It's more of an engine tear down booklet and I was able to get this directly from mazda. I have already been through one engine due to a heavy modification so I needed to tear it down to find out what happened.
 

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Hey guy,

I haven't done one of these yet but this is all I could find off of my Data software..

WATER PUMP REMOVAL/INSTALLATION


Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the under cover.
Remove the air cleaner.
Drain the engine coolant.
Remove the water pump drive belt pulley.
Remove in the order indicated in the table.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
Install the new water pump drive belt pulley.

Add the engine coolant. Water Pump Installation Note
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque, then tighten them further 85°- 95° . Tightening torque: 10 Nm (102 kgf-cm, 89 inch lbs.)


I attached a picture of the breakdown. It looks like in the picture the camshaft pulley is removed but no mention about it anywhere. Are you having trouble accessing a bolt becuase of the pulley? Or is the pump trapped behind it?

Also if you have not changed your coolant on the vehicle at 30k miles this kind of failure is expected!!

Let me know if you need anything else.

Blackwell
ASE Master Technician
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info. I bought the car with 40K miles. I have no idea if the fluid had been changed. The pulley is blocking two bolts to the water pump. One dealer told me the water pump drive pulley attached to the camshaft is threaded on, another told me it was a pressure fit. There is no bolt holding the pulley on.

I wish haynes or chilton would hurry up and come out with a book.



Hey guy,

I haven't done one of these yet but this is all I could find off of my Data software..

WATER PUMP REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the under cover.
Remove the air cleaner.
Drain the engine coolant.
Remove the water pump drive belt pulley.
Remove in the order indicated in the table.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
Install the new water pump drive belt pulley.

Add the engine coolant. Water Pump Installation Note
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque, then tighten them further 85°- 95° . Tightening torque: 10 Nm (102 kgf-cm, 89 inch lbs.)


I attached a picture of the breakdown. It looks like in the picture the camshaft pulley is removed but no mention about it anywhere. Are you having trouble accessing a bolt becuase of the pulley? Or is the pump trapped behind it?

Also if you have not changed your coolant on the vehicle at 30k miles this kind of failure is expected!!

Let me know if you need anything else.

Blackwell
ASE Master Technician[/b]
 

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This was a VERY common problem on the 2.5L Duratec V6 in the Contour. Replacement is pretty easy as the instructions above should show. There used to be a link to a service manual somewhere over on 6tech. PM me if you cant find it and I can send it to you when I get to my home system.
 

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So I just did the water pump yesterday. I found a harmonic balancer puller and just ran bolts with washers through the openings on the pulley and slowly drove it off with surprising ease.
Replaced the water pump as a whole unit as the plastic to cast mating surface is where this one failed.
When replacing the pulley I had read the threads inside the cam shaft were size M8-1.25. However it seams 5/16-24 fits better. I did buy the fancy tool (ford water pump pulley tool P/N 8069 comparable factory tool #303-456) to do this job but save yourself some trouble if you do buy the ridiculously expensive tool go ahead and get a 1/2-20 nut and a 21 mm half inch drive socket to thread on the tool as the provided nut is completely round… anyways I threaded the tool into the cam shaft and my mess of extra stuff I put on it and it slid back on with ease.
One thing that bothered me was the pulley doesn’t “bottom out” so really I just used a straight edge and kept creeping on until the pulley threads and the water pump lined up. I was worried as it really looked like the pulley was not true and square with the world but after surfing the web it sounds like that’s how it looks normally (I never saw it running before it was brought to me so I have nothing to compare it to)
Last note in this novel, if yours is like this 2006 Mazda 6 3.0l there is not a belt tensioner. Save the old belt it makes putting the new one on much easier.
 
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