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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well if you eve seen one of these, you can only guess what happened inside
KABOOM to the plastic WATER PUMP IMPELLER!!!


Which leads too this!


Notice the Missing Belt?
When the pump stopped turning, the belt burned. I ran it about a 1/2 mile part of which was idling waiting at lights. Then I heard the Chug Chug CHug of the over-flow tank filling.


Spacing to reach and grab....
So, without the "designated tool" for the job, what shall we use at home? I just need to make sure that what ever puller I rig up will fit in the small space.


Looks like we need something like this:


I see a split collar with bolts holding it together (or a clamp) and then using a basic puller like the illustration. I still need a metric bolt of unknown OD and pitch to install it though....

Mazda V6 3.0, Duratec Ford Water Pump Puller, Pulley.

More to come - stay posted...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Diy water pump install notes.....

Some outtakes from my seized up water pump at 92,XXX. I'm not going to hold your hand here. If you need instructions to remove the engine cover, you won't find it here. You will find some things to help you successfully replace the water pump and remove the Throttle Body hose "T" which is a weak link allowing your coolant to spill out when you least expect it. Beyond the basic hand tools, there are a couple specialty tools your need for this repair.

Drain the Radiator:
The system holds 9 quarts. With a pan and a larger Phillips screwdriver, remove the drain plug at the center of the radiator. Keep track of the rubber washer and plastic plug. This will not get 9 qts. Removing the lower hose from the water pump suction side will allow a fair amount of coolant from the engine. But not all of it.


Essential Tool for hose removal! GET IT!
I'm removing the lower water pump hose to get rid of hose to the TB. I plugged it year ago when the T on the top snapped. Its not necessary unless you need to 1) Get more coolant out, 2) get rid of this hose, 3) remove water pump body.


Lower water pump hose w/long hose to the TB:
During the water pump replacement I removed the T replacing it with straight through 5/8" coupler.

At the parts store, this hose looked like might make replacement once cut down to size. The goal being, "LESS HOSE CLAMPS, LESS LEAKS". Notice the "T". It will be removed and replaced to complete the "T" by-pass.


Return to this distance!
Just make sure the Pulley is flush to CAM (Look Inside)!


Puller Solution for water pump drive pulley is Harbor Freight.
Grab the Complete kit as you must have the small bearing splitter and they don't sell it by itself. Also the bolts in the kit will not pass through the pulley as they are large Hex bolts. Grab some 3/8" NC X 5" bolts and use them as shown below.
Here I used the "puller assembly" from another kit as its more compact and fits in the tight space. I also removed the bolts securing the power steering reservoir and the cooling fan relay just to get a straight shot at the work area and not strain anything.


Notice the installer tool with the extension on it: You need this to put the pulley back on. I rented a kit "OEM 27031, for power steering pulley removal and install".


With no strain at all (rotational torque applied to CAM), the pulley cam right off.
Be wise here as you could damage the Timing Chain Guides or Chain Tensioner if you go nuts with the torque and it is doesn't move easily. PS - soaked pulley w-PB Blaster before I left to get parts. If it does not break free with minimal effort, hold the pulley to prevent it from rotating BUT DO NOT TURN IT!!


Same PN and Patent on the impellers:
Notice the burn marks where the Impeller spun up against the housing. It did this on both sides when the bearings failed.


Notice a little different casting design:


Pump housing is cleaned and ready for install
I just need to check the pump depth with NO GASKET and confirm it rotates and doesn't contact. it checked out fine so I'll bolt it up!


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Things to know:
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THE GASKET:
The after market pump came with CHEAP paper gasket. OEM used a steel coated rubber shim (AJ5715116, WATER PUMP ASSY GASKET, $9.09). I sprayed the USED METAL SHIM with MAF cleaner and then gloss black spray paint and re-used it as it I didn't want it seeping a year from now. Lets just say the quality of the loosely composed fibers in the supplied paper gasket WILL SEEP in a year and get loose if you don't tighten it.
If you use the PAPER gasket; seal it with Spray Copper Coat or Gloss Paint. Saturate it! Its paper, it has turbine spinning throwing high volumes of coolant at it. IT WILL DISSOLVE TO SOME EXTENT and SEEP! Silicon will not prevent this.

WP Bolt torque: 88 in/lbs
Also TWO of the bolts that hold the pump assembly to the block are under the pulley! (Engineering at its best!)

WP PULLEY INSTALL:
Clean both the CAM and the pulley. Grease them with white grease. Get the pulley started straight. If it goes on crooked - STOP! Remove it. Mine went on crooked twice and made a ridge inside the pulley. Use a small file to deburr it. In the end, I had a long piece of wood forcing the pulley straight while tightening it.

So long Mr T!
If you want to remove the coolant "T" that warms the throttle body you'll need a 90 degree elbow (3/4" X 3/4"). If Vehicle reliability is IMPORTANT TO YOU; REPLACE IT it with a more robust design or remove it. It is known to break and fail! To remove it, you also need to remove the T that connects to the water pump. See NOTES BELOW!


This T snapped while I was out of town. To get home, I tapped the hole and threaded a bolt covered in Epoxy to ensure no leaks. It was still holding when I removed the rest of the plumbing.


COOLANT CAPACITY:
V6 = 9 US Qts.
Pulling the plug on the radiator will get you about 2 qts. Pulling the lower WP hose another 1.5 qts, Dumping coolant tank another 0.5 qts, moving vehicle to nose down about 1.0 qt. I was able to add 5 qts of fresh fluid to my water mix.

BELT INSTALL:
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2003 - 2005 Remove the idler pulley, throw away the long belt and use the stretch fit belt if the idler pulley fails. PN: GOOD YEAR, 4030195S
PS - you'll know its stretch fit as it costs about $1.50 an inch. lol
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The OD of the NEW Stretch to fit belt is about 20" on the outside (19" on the inside) and it really doesn't look like it will fit. IT DOES! Fit the belt around the WP and up the rear side of the pulley. Secure the last seated section to the pulley Using a ZIP TIE (Radiator side will be off the pulley). From the passenger side wheel well USE A 19MM socket to ROTATE the CRANK CLOCKWISE until the belt is seated.

OR US THE STARTER to mount the Belt. FIRST - REMOVE THE "FUEL PUMP RELAY"!! This will keep the engine from running should you bump the key for too long.
Its in the cabin at the left front in the Kick panel next to the "BLOWER FAN RELAY"
NOTE - Removing the Fuel Injector FUSE (15A under the hood) DISABLES the STARTER. You CAN NOT remove that fuse and turn the key to mount the belt. I tried. Great idea, but no dice! All I got for my effort was a MIL code. It went away on its own after 3 starts....

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COOLANT BY-PASS at the THROTTLE BODY:
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UPPER PRESSURE HOSE BROKEN T :
Replace T with 90 degree elbow. Hoses accept 0.75" - 3/4" both sides.
But technically its 0.75" and 0.76" for the 90.
- >> OEM PN: parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/HOSE,WATER-(GK3K%252d61%252d24XH) GK3K-61-24XH, HOSE,WATER
HOSE CLAMPS:
2 X 1.1" ~ 1.25" ID for pressure side WP at 90 degree T
2 X 1.1" ~ 1.25" ID for heater hoses to the cabin

LOWER SUCTION SIDE of WATER PUMP:
Lower T needs By-Pass as "STRAIGHT THROUGH". Size: 5/8" = 0.625"
HOSE CLAMPS:
4 X 0.975" ID for suction side of WP


Some Part Numbers:
3.0 LITER MAZDA PN: BELTS & PULLEYS for 2008 Mazda 6
AJ5715908, WATER PUMP BELT, $14.25 << PRETTY SURE THIS IS WHY SEVERAL PARTS SYSTEM WILL HAND YOU THE WRONG BELT. Several sights ARE INCORRECT! The Stretch belts are $25 and up. I USED A GOOD YEAR PN: 4030195S << S is stretch fit.
AJTM15010, WATER PUMP ASSY, $144.83 ((THIS IS THE COMPLETE PUMP ASSY))
AJ5715116, WATER PUMP ASSY GASKET, $9.09 ((METAL GASKET))
AJTM15537, UPPER HOSE, $26.87
AJ5715536A, LOWER HOSE, $13.33

AJ5715909A SERPENTINE BELT $32.60 $24.45 (ALt, PS, AC +2 idlers//NOT WP!!)

==================================
Mid 05 and earlier....
AJ5715908, WATER PUMP BELT $14.25
AJ5715980A, TENSIONER $77.90
9XG015201K, TENSIONER BOLT $5.00
AJ5715940A, IDLER PULLEY $31.30
AJY115010, WATER PUMP ASSY $176.17 $132.13
AJ0315116, WATER PUMP ASSY GASKET $13.39 $10.04
AJTM15537, UPPER HOSE $35.83 $26.87
AJ5715536A, LOWER HOSE $17.76 $13.32

AJ5715909A, SERPENTINE BELT $32.60 $24.45 (ALt, PS, AC +2 idlers//NOT WP!!)

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TOOLS:
Basic hand tools
Bearing Separator and Puller Set

***************************************

NO OIL IN THE THROTTLE BODY OR FLEX HOSE
In January of 2013 I cleaned the TB when new plugs were put in. That was like 13,000 miles ago. No build up!


No oil pouring through from the crankcase and i run this thing. I don't LUG it! It Keeps it healthy! You can see where I cleaned it in January.


JJD952 Coolant
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Flipper. Do know what pitch and Dia that hole is in the cam for the install tool? Hopefully my pulley has less taco when all is said an done.. lol
I guess I was lucky, shut down just as it threw up. Now to find the chunk of plastic so it doesn't kill it again. Hopefully the rear housing is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I can check my tool when I get home.

Or you can just pick up the same tool. they are less than 20 bucks at HF.
Dude, this is the interwebs - wants help now!!! haha I'll just shove a couple bolts in it, tell I find one that fits.

oh, and headed there shortly.... Although I am curious if the bolts that hold the pump to the block can be removed and just drop the pump in one piece. Doubt it... And hopefully my bearing splitter fits through the holes in the pulley for extraction. We shall see...
 

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Dude, this is the interwebs - wants help now!!! haha I'll just shove a couple bolts in it, tell I find one that fits.

oh, and headed there shortly.... Although I am curious if the bolts that hold the pump to the block can be removed and just drop the pump in one piece. Doubt it... And hopefully my bearing splitter fits through the holes in the pulley for extraction. We shall see...
sorry work in the way of car shenanigans.

couple of people tried to pull it that way, wasn't enough clearance from what I'm told to get it around the pulley. I would assume the dealer would have done it that way otherwise too instead of insanely silly tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sorry work in the way of car shenanigans.

couple of people tried to pull it that way, wasn't enough clearance from what I'm told to get it around the pulley. I would assume the dealer would have done it that way otherwise too instead of insanely silly tools.
^^ Bills, work, love it all...
Agreed! FSM pic says NO wAy as two of the three bolts are under the pulley which hold the assembly to the block.

For future reference; Mazda wants $225 for what sounds like a reman part (it has a core charge) and DOESN'T come w/a gasket. Everyone in my town is having to order this thing and you can grab a new one on Rockauto for $65.
So, if your at 100,000 mile mark - be warned the plastic gets brittle and grenades.
Mine blew up right as a passed a car i suspect. I was sitting idle, heard the RPMs drop about 100, heard this bang and really had no idea WTF it was except this funny burning smell. Not your standard smell I must say. Anyway, all seemed well tell I heard the throw up sound and saw the needle skyrocket.... Had I not heard that, I'm guessing she woulda got pretty toasty fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I suppose it coulda crapped out a bearing, pump is seized. Impeller is suspect. Wasn't leaking or anything so, 99% certain the plastic impeller exploded. but its not apart yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
look forward to finding out what is wrong.

PS drizzy.... look at the first post clearly his car is a late model and doesn't have the auto tensioner.....
Server just bit it and lost all my pictures in post # 2! :(
I was wrong - bearings Crapped! Talk about no warning signs. No leaks at the pump, just seepage at the heater hose to the CAB, and boom, bearings locked down hard. You could see the plastic wheel rubbed on both sides of the case making full contact and than wham. I fully expected to be picking chunks of plastic out my engine. Impeller was abused but not broken. I've never seen a pump bearing diw w/out leaking first. That last Full throttle pass was all she wrote. I'll try an post pics again sat...

I put the pump in vise griping the pulley; With a BFH to the housing, it won't rotate. Apparently my balls are tied in a not!

PS - after all that, got the wrong belt so I didn't finish it today. :eek:

Uploaded pictures and tips into 2nd post. Hopefully this helps someone....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Because I hate the flat spot on worm drive clamps

HOSE CLAMPS that Don't LEAK = 360 coverage, w/out flat spots
McMaster-Carr


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Easy-to-Install Bolt Hose Clamps



Remove the bolt and flip open the hinged bridge—installation is that simple. Bolt clamps are stronger than worm-drive clamps. Clamps are reusable. They have rolled edges to protect your hose, so they are ideal for use with silicone and other soft hose and tube. Temperature range is –40° to +122° F.

Type 430 Stainless Steel Clamps with Zinc-Plated Steel Bolt—The nut and bolt are zinc-plated steel for fair corrosion resistance. Clamps meet DIN 1.4016.

Type 304 Stainless Steel Clamps with Type 304 Stainless Steel Bolt—Have very good corrosion resistance. Clamps meet DIN 1.4301.

45/64" band width clamps can be tightened with an 8 mm hex nutdriver; torque is 46 in.-lbs. 25/32" band width clamps can be tightened with an 11 mm hex nutdriver; torque is 106 in.-lbs.

RANGE:
Type 430 Stainless Steel with Zinc-Plated Steel Bolt (5443K##)
Type 304 Stainless Steel with Type 304 Stainless Steel Bolt (5462K##)

45/64" Band Width —1/64" Band Thickness
11/16"-3/4" 17-19 5443K11 $2.93 5462K41 $5.98
3/4"-13/16" 19-21 5443K12 2.94 5462K42 6.05
13/16"-29/32" 21-23 5443K13 2.97 5462K43 6.12
29/32"-1" 23-25 5443K14 3.01 5462K44 6.25
1"-1 1/16" 25-27 5443K15 3.06 5462K45 6.34
1 1/16"-1 5/32" 27-29 5443K16 3.10 5462K46 6.44


*********************************************
Constant-Tension Worm-Drive Clamps for Soft Hose and Tube
These have the range but have a flat spot like a conventional worm drive clamp, plus they are heavy!


McMaster-Carr
Constant-Tension Worm-Drive Clamps for Soft Hose and Tube
Don’t worry about your hose and tube expanding and contracting when temperatures fluctuate—these clamps have Belleville springs that automatically increase and decrease the clamps’ diameter to eliminate the need for retightening. These clamps have an extended tail on the band, which acts as a liner to protect soft hose and tube from being cut. The band is 0.028" thick. Clamps are reusable. Temperature range is –50° to +250° F. Clamps meet SAE J1508.

9/16" Band Width
9/16"-1 1/16" 14-27 10 ______ __ 54205K11 $5.25
11/16"-1 1/4" 17-32 12 ______ __ 54205K13 5.58
13/16"-1 1/2" 21-38 16 ______ __ 54205K15 5.76
13/16"-1 3/4" 21-44 20 ______ __ 54205K17 5.93
1 1/16"-2" 27-51 24 ______ __ 54205K19 6.11


******************************************

T-Bolt Hose and Tube Clamps Too big for the most places....

McMaster-Carr
The T-bolt design provides high strength and a 360° seal. The band is 3/4" wide and 0.025" thick. Clamps are reusable. The locknut has a nylon insert. Temperature range is –100° to +250° F.

300 Series Stainless Steel Clamps with Zinc-Plated Steel Bolt—The T-bolt and locknut are yellow zinc-plated steel, which has fair corrosion resistance. The band has rolled edges to protect soft hoses and tubes. Tighten with a 7/16" wrench. Torque is 90 in.-lbs.

1 3/8"-1 1/2" 34.5-38 5312K45 $5.33 5204K45 $8.44
316 Stainless Steel T-Bolt Hose & Tube Clamp, 1-3/8" to 1-1/2" Clamp Diameter Range, 3/4" Band Width

******************************************
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bringing this back alive do you recall what size the bearing puller was it the 2 inch one or could you use a smaller one going to be tackling this next week

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
The adjustable bearing splitter/puller on the right?


That would be a fair guess. Something of 1.5 to 5" would be its range approximately. PS thats a 4" extension on the left 3/8" drive.
 
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