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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have cranked it many times as I was testing the ignition coils yesterday. Only few drops came out. I blew compressed air in too but that didn't help at all. It's been a week since I washed it but the water is still there. Hopefully it dries out by next weekend when I am planning to try starting it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have cranked it many times as I was testing the ignition coils yesterday. Only few drops came out. I blew compressed air in too but that didn't help at all. It's been a week since I washed it but the water is still there. Hopefully it dries out by next weekend otherwise I will put in a small flexible tube to vacuum it out which should be easy.
 

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At this point, I'd be more concerned about rusting with the plugs out and it sitting for 2 weeks. Maybe add a bit extra oil in the chamber before starting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
At this point, I'd be more concerned about rusting with the plugs out and it sitting for 2 weeks. Maybe add a bit extra oil in the chamber before starting?
Ohh.. I thought it was all aluminum which won't rust. I will squirt some oil in the chambers and try to start it today.
 

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I bet there is SOMETHING in the combustion chamber that is iron. Piston, rings, valve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I vacuumed it and it pulled out quite a bit more water than I expected. I don't see any big drops now and squirted PB blaster in the cylinders to prevent corrosion.
 

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I checked what is a PB blaster and Google says it's a penetrant. I don't think that's a good fluid for the cylinder liner. I might be wrong but I'd rather use engine oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Penetrant will unstick the rings if they get stuck with corrosion is what I read
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
So will red trans fluid, and its a little safer maybe.
Yes but don't see the PB blaster going beyond the piston rings. I only put a little bit directly into the cylinder. It can do no harm to iron or aluminum parts. What material is cylinder liner? I am guessing it is either cast iron or aluminum silicon alloy. I will do a compression test today on the cylinders to confirm that those numbers are still reasonable.
 

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Any of those things or nothing is fine. Fire it up. That water will vaporize almost immediately.
 

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I have cranked it many times as I was testing the ignition coils yesterday. Only few drops came out. I blew compressed air in too but that didn't help at all. It's been a week since I washed it but the water is still there. Hopefully it dries out by next weekend when I am planning to try starting it again.
Shoot some fogging oil in there, you’ll be fine from what I could see from the pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Any of those things or nothing is fine. Fire it up. That water will vaporize almost immediately.
I fired it up. It started and then stopped when I took my foot off the accelerator. May the battery was too weak as it didn't start. So I charged the battery with a laptop charger for about 10 minutes and then it started. I kept it at 3000 RPM for a few minutes. There was a lot of white smoke from the exhaust but then it stopped. Most likely this was the water since I had pressure washed the catalytic convertors after clearing the melted front pre-cat honeycomb. Now the smoke from exhaust is normal and the car runs great.
 

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If there is excess oil in the cylinder, it will create a lot of smoke until it is cleared.
Might dirty up the plugs as well, but a good run should tidy that up to.

One way to check if there is too much water in the cylinder is to put the plugs back in and crank the engine by hand. If there is no undue resistance, it should not hydro lock and the engine running should eject it pretty quickly. This is how they check for hydro locking in aircraft radial engines.
If you're turning the engine by hand, you won't break anything unless you're the hulk having a tanty.

Not recommended practice either to wash your engine. The sensors and electrical connections on modern engines can cause no end of grief if they get water in them.
 
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