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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so i'm not to noob anymore when it comes to most mods, but this is an area where I need some schooling.

I have a 6i with a Tanabe NF (1.25") drop, a CPE lightweight tray and battery and a Freedom design strut bar, accompanied with some ToyoProxes4 tires. I figured this is the composition of things that I have done in order to change the stock suspension to what I have now.

What I want is my ride to be firmer and tighter when driving on the road. It's not that I have alot of body roll, when going into corners, actually it feels like I almost have none, but when I go over bumps I feel as if the car should be firmer. I may be comparing the car to the wrong vehicle...casue I love the way my friend '06 325i handles this problem, but I can't help shake this thought.

It may be the shocks are starting to go, but since I bought the NF's (which only increased the spring rate by about 10%) I wouldn't think I would have this problem after only 15K or so. From what I understand, if I increase the spring rate, I increase the firmness of the ride, but I will also, "feel" the road more, so maybe that's it, I'm just feeling the road more, but I tend to think that's not it.

I know the strut bar doesn't do much for our firewall reinforced strut towers, so I'm still confused. I've thought about racing beat sway bars to replace my stockies , but I think this will only help with body roll. Am I wrong?

Ideally, I would like to get a coliover set, but the $$ to lay out for that is too high...so any suggestions or explanation to what I'm doing here?

Sorry for the lack of clarity, I realize that if I could have another member drive it, it would be easier, but...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not that I want to feel the bumps more but I want the car to "travel" less when going over them. When i say tight, i mean that I don't want to feel motion from the car. The best wayI can describe it is when I was riding in my friends '06 325i.
 

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It may be the shocks are starting to go, but since I bought the NF's (which only increased the spring rate by about 10%) I wouldn't think I would have this problem after only 15K or so. [/b]
Heh. Drop the car 1.25 inches and ONLY increase the springrate 10% = owwie on shocks.

If you want to firmen up the suspension, get firmer springs and konis. 15-20k would be my guesstimate on how long shocks would last with the NFs. I also had those springs before I knew anything...... man I was dum.
 

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actually the shocks are hurt more when they are being overdriven ( higher springrates), changing where they bound and rebound in their travel isnt such a big problem.
 

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i put the rb sways on my car, and can tell you it stays very flat in the corners, and feels very tight. i am very impressed with the feel. and the car in general just feels more aggressive. and i am on stock struts with eibach prokit springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My 4-Point brace?
[/b]
Not sure if this will help may cause. Wouldn't this just decrease bodyroll?


Heh. Drop the car 1.25 inches and ONLY increase the springrate 10% = owwie on shocks.

If you want to firmen up the suspension, get firmer springs and konis. 15-20k would be my guesstimate on how long shocks would last with the NFs. I also had those springs before I knew anything...... man I was dum.
[/b]
Archlife hit this one on the head. And increase in springrate is what kills the shocks more than the shorter travel

actually the shocks are hurt more when they are being overdriven ( higher springrates), changing where they bound and rebound in their travel isnt such a big problem.
[/b]
This is in line with what I thought.

i put the rb sways on my car, and can tell you it stays very flat in the corners, and feels very tight. i am very impressed with the feel. and the car in general just feels more aggressive. and i am on stock struts with eibach prokit springs.
[/b]
This is kinda the way I'm leaning, but I want to be sure that it's either shocks or sways that I need. Hopefully this thread will shead a little more light on it, but I fear that only someone else driving it, who knows more, is really going to help.
 

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If the problem is bumps going strait, sways aint the fix. You have high drop with no significant rate increase, so likely hitting the bumber cushions hard (look for signs of hard contact). no monster sways on that bmw.

new stiffer (linear) springs for ~1.5" drop, and perhaps trim the progressive stops. then koni's if needed.
 

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OH, FORGOT TO ADD,

having a drop with not a large increase in springrate normally wont hurt the shocks, but when your constantly hitting and riding on the super progressive rate jounce jumpers BECAUSE of the drop, (which effectivley increase the springrate) then the shocks start to go bad fast because of that increase in rate.

because of this, if we had more travel to work with in the suspension, we wouldnt be seeing as much failures of shocks.


so, in the end, lowering does kill shocks on this car, but its indirectly, not directly related..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So what I probably need to do, which is what I originally thought, is to upgrade the shocks?


Any idea, how much a set of Konis go for?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
500$ shipped at best through a forum sponsor i believe.
[/b]

Is that for all 4? Or just 2?

Also, I just read another post from a member who put on a Progress rear sway bar and he said the car bounces less when going over bumps. Is this what I'm looking for? I thought a sway bar only lessen body roll :huh:
 

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it should not feel any stiffer. at all, if you know how a swaybar works, the only resistance in the up and down motion of the bar is the friction between the bar and its bushings, and you lube that when you install it!.

it will not be stiffer. at all. with just a swaybar.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's what I figured. I may just end up waiting til I blow my OEM shock/struts and upgrade to some Mazdaspeed ones with an Eibach drop.

Will the Mazdaspeed struts/shocks hold up well (for longevity as well) with stiff springs as compared to stock springs with stock struts?
 

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Don't go with eibachs. The pro-kit is progressive and soft. And the Sportlines are reported to be linear, meanwhile the box and all marketing says progressive. This tells me that Eibach doesn't give a shit about what they put out, at least for the 6.

I sorta take that back since the Mazdaspeed springs are eibach (designed by mazdaspeed, produced by eibach), and everyone here thinks they are great. I assume they are too.

Racing beat springs are reported to be only .75" drop, but after previously having the 1.5" prokit drop....I really can't tell the difference unless I pull a lawn chair out and sit by the wheels in amazement. All I know is that my handling is 100% predictable now, and I don't have to baby the car into inclined parking lots anymore.

Racing beat or mazdaspeed springs are the only way to go as far as springs.

And again, the koni shocks are very very good, the front modification isn't bad if at the bare minimum, you have a table vice, drill, pipe-cutter or hack-saw. Mazdaspeed shocks are currently a JDM part, and much more expensive compared to konis.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Interesting to know. I was thinking about the Mazdaspeed springs but am holding out for at least a little bit. I think the racingbeat .75" is too short of a drop for me, I like'em real low, but do hear you about having to baby it in and out of inclines and declines.


Actually, I finally got a chance this weekend to drive my car for a substantial length of time out of the city and noticed that my suspension is tighter than I was thinking...these damn city roads and all the bumpity bumps, make it difficult to figure out.

I did get a chance to drive my friends Porsche Carrerra 4S, which was sick. Def. anohter difference in suspension over the 6's!
 
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