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Last month my girlfriend must have thought she was a captain in the navy and decided to take my car through about a 2-3 ft wall of water during a flash flood. She calls me up in the middle of this storm saying the car 'stopped' and 'wouldn't turn back on.' Before I even got there I knew what had happend, and the large oil slick under the car just confirmed it. She'd hydrolocked it bad enough to send a rod right through the side/bottom of the block. Now, I'm sure that the Injen I had on it didn't help, but I think judging by the fact that I had water in my trunk, it would've happend anyway. In the end, my insurance had to pay for a whole new engine and some interior work. I just got it back yesterday and it is surprisingly OK. I expected some moldy smell in the interior and for the engine not to be 'right' but so far so good. I'd really hate for this to happen again (as I'm sure my insurance would too) and it just keeps raining, but I also really don't want to take the Injen off (love the sound). I'm wondering if anyone has any experience installing the AEM bypass valve on an Injen, CPE, K&N, etc. I'm thinking of just cutting the intake right near the TB and splicing it in there. I'm just concerned with the diameter of the bypass vs the Injen.
 

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To answer your question NO. AEM STRICTLY STATES THAT YOU CAN NOT USE THE BY-PASS VALVE for the 6. The only way your gonna hyrdolock is as stated driving through 3+feet of water. Just avoid it. God knows you will lose sterring controls in just a few inchs.
 

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Originally posted by freebird_78@Oct 14 2005, 12:29 PM
Last month my girlfriend must have thought she was a captain in the navy and decided to take my car through about a 2-3 ft wall of water during a flash flood.  She calls me up in the middle of this storm saying the car 'stopped' and 'wouldn't turn back on.'  Before I even got there I knew what had happend, and the large oil slick under the car just confirmed it.  She'd hydrolocked it bad enough to send a rod right through the side/bottom of the block.  Now, I'm sure that the Injen I had on it didn't help, but I think judging by the fact that I had water in my trunk, it would've happend anyway.  In the end, my insurance had to pay for a whole new engine and some interior work.  I just got it back yesterday and it is surprisingly OK.  I expected some moldy smell in the interior and for the engine not to be 'right' but so far so good.  I'd really hate for this to happen again (as I'm sure my insurance would too) and it just keeps raining, but I also really don't want to take the Injen off (love the sound).  I'm wondering if anyone has any experience installing the AEM bypass valve on an Injen, CPE, K&N, etc.  I'm thinking of just cutting the intake right near the TB and splicing it in there.  I'm just concerned with the diameter of the bypass vs the Injen.
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If you're going to keep your girlfriend, I would suggest getting an intake snorkel.

http://www.triangleatv.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by smokeU6s@Oct 14 2005, 09:32 PM
To answer your question NO.  AEM STRICTLY STATES THAT YOU CAN NOT USE THE BY-PASS VALVE for the 6.   The only way your gonna hyrdolock is as stated driving through 3+feet of water.  Just avoid it.  God knows you will lose sterring controls in just a few inchs.
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It almost sounds like you mean specifically for the 6. Seems to me like aftermarket intakes are all basically the same principle, whether it's for a Mazda 6 or another car. Is this a size issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
BTW, you guys are quick. I hadn't even finished editing my atrocious spelling by the time crossbow repsonded. Thanks.
 

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I knew something like this would happen. It's not a matter of if but when it will happen. Murphy's law is alive and well. This is like steppin' on your own dick with golf shoes.


This is called a fording kit.
Originally posted by speedracer6@Oct 14 2005, 10:32 AM
If you're going to keep your girlfriend, I would suggest getting an intake snorkel.
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Wonder if the stock antenae could be replaced with an air intake? That way it would be pointing backwards and wouldn't need to worry about sucking anything into it (loose gravel, leaves, etc), and it would be up high enough to go through deeper water and not suck it in. Sounds like the ultimate snorkel to me.
 

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Originally posted by freebird_78@Oct 14 2005, 01:35 PM
It almost sounds like you mean specifically for the 6.  Seems to me like aftermarket intakes are all basically the same principle, whether it's for a Mazda 6 or another car.  Is this a size issue?
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Im not exactly sure, all I know AEM says the BY-PASS Valve is not designed for the 6. It might be due to how the engine is designed.
 

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You don't need to be in 3 feet of water to hydrolock your car. Haven't you been watching any of the news footage of the soakage we are getting here in the northeast. Just a normal puddle and going through it at a good speed will splash up / kick up a lot of water in front of the tire hitting the fender liner and bumper.

And the reason why AEM doesn't want you to put the AEM bypas valve on t-h-e-i-r intake is because the valve will be sitting downstream of the MAF. Hence, the possibility of sucking in un-metered air. But on any other intake, if you can place the AEM bypass valve upstream of the MAF, you'll be fine. ie INJEN and CPE has the MAF sitting under the hood near the battery. If you want, at your own risk, hacksaw the intake and place the AEM bypas valve before the MAF.
 

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^Well anyway, I took the precaution of duct taping the vented fender liner (and stuck the filter into panty hose as a pre-filter) on my AEM CAI install.
 

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Originally posted by flarearrow@Oct 14 2005, 04:03 PM
And the reason why AEM doesn't want you to put the AEM bypas valve on t-h-e-i-r intake is because the valve will be sitting downstream of the MAF. Hence, the possibility of sucking in un-metered air. But on any other intake, if you can place the AEM bypass valve upstream of the MAF, you'll be fine. ie INJEN and CPE has the MAF sitting under the hood near the battery. If you want, at your own risk, hacksaw the intake and place the AEM bypas valve before the MAF.
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A really easy design change could have fixed this. Just goes to show how much thought AEM put into their intake of the 6. :sarc:

I hit a deep puddle this weekend. Saw it just in time. I don't think it was over a foot, but even that seems too high with how low my car is. I manged to go around it on the grass/dirt on the side of the road. Phew!
 

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Gotta look at it as a straw submerged in water. Cut a slit up the straw on the bottom, and only partially submerge the straw, with part of the slit above the water line.

The straw will suck air, even though its partially submerged. Filters can take quite a soaking without any adverse effects. Technically it would be like free water injection temporarily.

This is of course ignoring the fact that some of the CAI filters actually sit about the same height as the stock resonator opening.
 

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Seems like the only solution is to run a long pipe into the cabin of the car and have the filter right there under your dash. NEVER have to worry about a soaked filter and you could turn your AC on and direct it at the filter to feed it even cooler air! Im a freekin genious! :)
 

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That's brilliant. Give this man a trophy or something!

Listen to Crossbow. You REALLY have to try to hydrolock your car i'd say about 1 foot of water will do you. That's driving through not kicking up 1 foot of water.
 

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Would it be possible to re-design the intake to work with the Cowl intakes on some of those new CF hoods like the Evo one? Or are we completely out of room under there?
 
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