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I recently replaced the sway bar links and bushings which significantly reduced the shimmy. My advice to solve this issue is to check the followings:

1- Start with inspecting the tyres, which I think is the easiest and cheapest job to do.

2- Inspect the wheels for any signs of bents or out of round imperfection.

3- Inspect the sway bar links and bushings and lower control arms for any leaks or damage or looseness of the joints.

4- If all above are fine with no issues, your last and most expensive possibility is a bent CV axle.

5- The least possible cause of vibration for new cars is the hub bearings. They may get damaged if they were exposed to intensive humidity which forces rust to get through.

Finally, I would agree with the folks that our cars are most likely to pronounce any tiny vibrations due to the design of the suspension and the size of the wheels, and I believe the steering mechanism plays no less important part to the shimmy (Electric Power Steering).
 

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Bumping this thread as I too have a vibration issue. Seems to "come and go" somewhat between 65 and 70 mph. I have a 2016 Touring. I have 50k miles on the original tires. I had my wheels rebalanced.

Either way, it really dims my view of Mazda. This is my first mazda, and it's the only vehicle I've had with this issue (that persists after a rebalancing). I'm wondering if my tires just aren't holding up. I have plenty of tread left, but I put a lot of highway miles on them.

Anyone had any success downgrading to 17" wheels? I wonder how much the stock "sport" wheels are? If I were to go aftermarket--what are the specs/offsets that would make a replacement 17" wheel look the most "stock?"
 

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Bumping this thread as I too have a vibration issue. Seems to "come and go" somewhat between 65 and 70 mph. I have a 2016 Touring. I have 50k miles on the original tires. I had my wheels rebalanced.

Either way, it really dims my view of Mazda. This is my first mazda, and it's the only vehicle I've had with this issue (that persists after a rebalancing). I'm wondering if my tires just aren't holding up. I have plenty of tread left, but I put a lot of highway miles on them.

Anyone had any success downgrading to 17" wheels? I wonder how much the stock "sport" wheels are? If I were to go aftermarket--what are the specs/offsets that would make a replacement 17" wheel look the most "stock?"
Typically a tire balance vibration will show up at around 55-60 mph. You may be experiencing some sort of runout induced problem. That can stem from any number of issues: worn or damaged tires, excessive road force variation (RFV)in one or more tires, out of round wheels, etc.

If I were you, I’d find a good tire shop with a balancer that can measure runout and RFV. I’d take my car there, explain my issues and ask to have my wheels/tires road force balanced. That’s a starting point, at least. Not every tire shop has the equipment and/or skills to properly diagnose vibration and not all vibration is caused by simple imbalance.

As far as downsizing to 17 inch wheels...in the back of your owners handbook, there’s a list of specifications. Width, offset, etc. for the stock 17” wheels size will be there.
 

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Bumping this thread.

My '17 has always had a slight vibration through the seat at 75mph and above. The vibration is not constant, but will slowly ramp up then ramp down over the course of several seconds. It's almost like one of the wheels or tires has an issue and is slightly out of phase with the other 3, if that makes sense.

The dealer road-force balanced the tires a while ago, but the vibration remains. I'm going to bring it in again while it's still under warranty. The vibration has not gotten any worse after 20k miles. It's disappointing and irritating. I hope it can be resolved. I know our cars are stiffly sprung and ride on 19"s, but surely this vibration isn't normal.
 

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If it's in the seat i would wager that it relates to one of the rear wheels. Though this would be really laborious and reasonably/practically could only be done by you yourself - try indexing at first one of the rear rotors (by say 180 degrees or nearest) then trying out the car... and then the other one. See if it makes a diference. Also, run a dial indicator on the rotor mounting surfaces (i.e. the hub), both radially and axially while you're in there. Comments, Others? I wonder if anyone could spin up a rotor on the wheel balancing machine?
 

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If it's in the seat i would wager that it relates to one of the rear wheels. Though this would be really laborious and reasonably/practically could only be done by you yourself - try indexing at first one of the rear rotors (by say 180 degrees or nearest) then trying out the car... and then the other one. See if it makes a diference. Also, run a dial indicator on the rotor mounting surfaces (i.e. the hub), both radially and axially while you're in there. Comments, Others? I wonder if anyone could spin up a rotor on the wheel balancing machine?
It definitely sounds like a wheel or tire eccentricity issue. It’s not bad enough to be easily detected, but when two wheel/tires are in phase, it created that resonance vibration that seems to come and go. Very frustrating.

What Cdn17Sport6MT says I would agree also...you may need to use a dial indicator to fix this. What I used to do is measure total radial and lateral runout on all 4 wheels/tires. Usually, I’d do this on the tire balancer using a dial indicator and stand since I’d be balancing the tires anyway. With the wheel/tire mounted on the balancer, I’d set up my DI to measure radial runout. Then turn the wheel by hand. Using tape or tire marker, I’d mark high and low. Then, move the DI to measure lateral runout on both outside and inside of the tire. Usually something would show up as just out or barely in spec. Then, you have to break down the tire/wheel and do the same DI measurements to the wheel itself. Be sure to mark high and low again, cause this will allow you to phase match your wheel to the tire apron reassembly. If by this point no obvious issues had appeared, I’d go to the car and measure radial and lateral runout at the hub.

Yeah, this is a lot of work and it requires a good dial indicator (expensive) and a good stand (also unfortunately expensive) and a better than average understanding of tire and suspension work. Sadly, not many shops or dealers have anyone who knows enough or cares enough to be able to do this correctly. If I lacked the skill or tools to do this myself, I’d try and find a shop that had a very good reputation with tires. Maybe, a performance shop that dealt in modifying track or auto cross cars?
 

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So any perminant solutions for the 06s yet bought a used one and the vibration is mostly floor pan and throttle pedal. On brand new bf g-force comp-2 a/s 19 oem rims.? Also wobbly noise when rolling off the brake.
 
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