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Discussion Starter #1
ok, i got some new wheels. ALT rival +42mm offset 18x7.5 w/ the stock Potenza RE050A 215 tires. the center bore is 73mm so i got some hub centric rings (67.2mm to 73mm) and mutegi tuner lugs. im getting quite a bit of vibration in the steering wheel at speeds of 60+mph. nothing violent, but its enough that it gets annoying. All the tires were balanced during mounting and im assuming they're facing the right direction since the "OUTSIDE" mark on the tires is facing outside. these are Y-rated tires btw so i don't believe they are directional. does anyone have a clue to why im getting the vibration?
 

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Vibration at speed would lead me to believe its a balance issue. Take the car back to the shop that installed them and have them double check the balance.

Just because it says "outside" on the tyre, doesn't mean it is facing the right way, you can double check that the tread it going the right direction, but I don't see that giving you much vibration even if they are wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Vibration at speed would lead me to believe its a balance issue. Take the car back to the shop that installed them and have them double check the balance.

Just because it says "outside" on the tyre, doesn't mean it is facing the right way, you can double check that the tread it going the right direction, but I don't see that giving you much vibration even if they are wrong.
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i dont remember which direction the tires were originally facing. ill post in the mazdaspeed section for verification. ill probably take it back to the shop later after i get some info here. thanks gremlyn.
 

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If they are monodirectional, the tread lines would be in a v-like shape pointing towards the ground and in the direction they are moving. Basically, look at the tyre from the front of the car, and you should see the lines going like this: \ /
 

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Directional tires usually have an arrow on the sidewall to tell you which direction they should be facing. These tires appear to not have any particular directional arrows. However one would assume it would be better for the arrow shapes on the tread to be pointing towards the front of the car, instead of the rear.

Other then that, I agree with mr Colin of the Balance Issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
k, im heading to the tire shop as soon as i finish posting my catch can install. thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
tires are balanced just fine. i cant think of anything else. perhaps warped rotors? but the car is only 4 months old. ill probably have to take it to mazda for them to check.
 

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Do any of the tires have bulges in the sidewall?

Also, from what I understand, hub centric rings "assist" in getting the wheel aligned properly on the car, but the lug nuts really do the final alignment. Is it possible that one of the wheels is not 100% aligned?
 

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Take it to another shop.

Not all shops balance them well, My shop I work at has ppl come ALL the time to rebalance fromt Pep Boys or other tire places, have them put them on the balancer before the take the weights off and see if it was off.

Most shops stay content with it being .25oz off and leave it, make sure it was balanced to 0, .25 oz shouldn't cause it but wheels vary.
 

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tires are balanced just fine. i cant think of anything else. perhaps warped rotors? but the car is only 4 months old. ill probably have to take it to mazda for them to check.
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First things first, if the tire says "outside", then it's assymetrical...not directional. Someone mentioned that directonals usually have an arrow, they're right. Second, were you getting vibes with your old set up? If the problem came up when you changed everything, then, it's the new stuff. Now, did you watch the balance procedure? We let customers watch outside inthe garage if they'd like(Discount Tire Co.) It should read "0.00/0.00" on the screen. The setup...hubrings, regular acorn or spline-tuner acorn lugs, TORQUED TO ~85ft/lbs with partial vehicle weight(just enough to prevent wheel from spinning while torqueing. THAT'S IT! Oh yeah...last thing...If everything comes to be with 0.00/0.00 and you're still having vibes, have a shop with a Hunter Road Force balancer do a force variance procedure on them. It does cost extra...we charge $10 each wheel/tire. It actually measures the force that the tire "slaps" the ground while driving. Typically you want a reading of 18lbs. or less but I have found that I can feel 8lbs. **Most shops will not adjust the position of the tire/wheel if it reads 18 or less so don't get too picky! HAVE FUN!! Anymore questions, feel free to PM me. - Chip
 

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Discussion Starter #12
it was 0/0 on the balancer and they had the machine calibrated last week. they even spun it and watch the grooves to eyeball anything out of balance. i did not have this problem before i got the wheels and the tires are perfect. even before i installed the muteki lugs, i had this problem. the lugs are torqued to 70. could it be that they're undertorqued?
 

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it was 0/0 on the balancer and they had the machine calibrated last week. they even spun it and watch the grooves to eyeball anything out of balance. i did not have this problem before i got the wheels and the tires are perfect. even before i installed the muteki lugs, i had this problem. the lugs are torqued to 70. could it be that they're undertorqued?
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Did you get to see the grooves yourself? Did they check for warped wheels? If all you have replaced is the wheels and there is now a vibration, then it would seem that there is a problem with the wheels.

You could also get them to do a balance of the wheels without the tyres fitted.
 

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Did you get to see the grooves yourself? Did they check for warped wheels? If all you have replaced is the wheels and there is now a vibration, then it would seem that there is a problem with the wheels.

You could also get them to do a balance of the wheels without the tyres fitted.
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The road force variance will check for "run-out" of the wheels. Grooves...huh...groves WILL NOT always be straight(grooves would be lateral movement which isn't a problem 99% of the time). You must look perpendicular to the tread(for up/down movement). 1.Hunter Road Force, 2.Ask for print out **At my store particularly, we calibrate everyday. Alot of shops tell you they have it done; they should be able to do it themselves at anytime. Takes a few minutes!** Take Care...
 

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The road force variance will check for "run-out" of the wheels. Grooves...huh...groves WILL NOT always be straight(grooves would be lateral movement which isn't a problem 99% of the time). You must look perpendicular to the tread(for up/down movement). 1.Hunter Road Force, 2.Ask for print out **At my store particularly, we calibrate everyday. Alot of shops tell you they have it done; they should be able to do it themselves at anytime. Takes a few minutes!** Take Care...
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You can also look at the flat part in between the grooves to see if they are rasing of falling, as there is no wear on these surfaces, it's pretty easy to see if a tyre is out of round etc....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
everything looks fine with the tire. i was standing there watching while they put it thru the balancer. if the wheel is bent or anything, the balancer would see it, so it shouldnt have anything to do with the wheel.

it cant be the tire anyways because these are the same tires from my oem rims. if they balance on these new wheels, then theres nothing wrong with the tire.

so tire is good, wheel is good, center bore is good, lug torque is good.

now since the offset is +42mm compared to the stock +55mm, could that cause vibration now that the scrub radius is larger?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Radius should have no bearing. Wondering if one of the lugs was not tight.
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the wheels have been taken off a couple times ever since i got these rims, and ive gotten the vibration every time. ill test it on the freeway again tomorrow. the shop rotated my tires but i doubt thats going to help. the only other thing i can think of is that they might have mismatched the tires in the front and rear so that the tread isnt even. would that cause vibration?

btw, steering isnt pulling or anything. only vibration.
 

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The problem I have with it all that it is only at speed that you get the problem. If it were warped rotors you should only feel it while breaking, unless they are severly warped, in which was you'd have bigger problems than wheel vibration. If the wheels aren't the problem, check your cv boots or perhaps the wheel bearings.
 
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