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Discussion Starter #1
I was thinking of selling my mazda6 so I went to the CARMAX to get it appraised, and I was shocked that the figure is $8,000! How do I lose so much value in 4 and half years? The car is in very good condition, serviced every 5,000 miles, and it's all original. I bought it at $22.4k on Dec. 2014. It has 70,000 miles in it.

So, can you give me the real value of the mazda 6? Like in private party, and trade-in?

Thanks,

M.
 

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Sedans don't hold much value these days, plus you have a MT, not popular.


Go to autotrader in your region and see what private sales are going for.
 

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I was thinking of selling my mazda6 so I went to the CARMAX to get it appraised, and I was shocked that the figure is $8,000! How do I lose so much value in 4 and half years? The car is in very good condition, serviced every 5,000 miles, and it's all original. I bought it at $22.4k on Dec. 2014. It has 70,000 miles in it.

So, can you give me the real value of the mazda 6? Like in private party, and trade-in?

Thanks,

M.
How do you think Carmax makes money? Buy low, sell high, you know.... :wink2:

I'd expect around a third of original purchase price as a trade value, and about half for a private-party sale, assuming more than half of tire depth remains on the tires currently on the car (those low-pro tires are very expensive, and if worn that's an INSTANT $500 or more whack off the value of the car), no stored codes, no collision history or evident damage and no material interior wear.
 

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Trade in value is much, much lower than a private party sale value. Their offer sounds about standard actually. Why are you selling?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your information tickerguy!! I'm just thinking about selling it, because it's getting too small for my 6'7" frame, and I drive in the rush hour traffic constantly which is tiring for me especially with a standard shift. I would like to get a little bigger vehicle like the CX-5, and AWD too. I really love my mazda6, it has been so good for me in the past 5 years, but I need more space haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And also, I can't sell the car on this forum because I have not reached the required minimum of 50 posts.. If I could sell it, I would value at 11,000 dollars.
 

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You may have already thought of this but just a suggestion if you are looking to buy a CX-5. These days Mazda has a lot of rebates & owner loyalty discounts etc. going on. Why don’t you check what the trade in value is. It may not be 11k but could be better than Carmax. Good luck
 

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If you want another Mazda, did you see what the Dealers are offering to get you to "trade-up", maybe at end of the month? In NY, the trade-in cost doesn't get taxed (which is high) so some additional savings can be had there as well.
 

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Yeah, that's one of the hose jobs that the car business serves up on you..... trade-in doesn't get taxed in most states in the US (that is, you get taxed on the differential between the new and old) but if you sell privately the buyer pays sales tax on the whole amount. That's a screwing since you already paid sales tax on the vehicle when YOU bought it; it's intended to coerce you to trade the car rather than sell it outright.

Of course the problem is that the dealers know this and is partly why the "trade value" tends to be artificially depressed.
 

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The other comment, I think from above, is that this car is a moderately-powered 4 door... with a manual transmission. The general populace does not want that kind of combination. I contrast it with, say, a (4 door) Chevy SS with the Tremec 6 speed manual (with real go-power)... which would have a bit more enthusiast appeal.

I bought the Sport trim level with 6MT because I knew I would only get a few $ back if I ever attempted to sell it... so the de-contented base car would have less $ to fall than a mid-or top trim car. Also, this was a matter of opportunity. There were very, very few 6MT cars in the area, and I bought one which had not even been test-driven by other prospective customers, and it had been on the lot for a while - which meant the dealer was motivated to sell it.

Now, of course, you don't buy a car with the intent to sell it... or at least a car in this class - to do so... so my argument will not have resonance with many of you.

My thought also was that if the car got totalled tomorrow, I would be happier in a base-trim car than a higher trim car because of fewer $ lost.

Having said the above, the options in a Touring probably are the "sweet spot". I just did not want leatherette interior (nor leather, for that matter) - and I am happy with "simple, plain" because the drive-quality is more or less the same. Now, if I could have gotten a Turbo with 6MT... well, that is a whole other different matter hehe.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you want another Mazda, did you see what the Dealers are offering to get you to "trade-up", maybe at end of the month? In NY, the trade-in cost doesn't get taxed (which is high) so some additional savings can be had there as well.
And also, the bs dealer "doc" fees are capped at 75 dollars in NY. Most of dealer doc fees in my state of CT are 500-700 dollars!


I'm torn between CX-5 and Toyota RAV4 hybrid.. How can I resist 40 mpg combined with the AWD with the RAV4? But, the hybrid is very pricey, 35k for XSE trim.
 

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THAT depends on how much you drive.

For MOST people fuel economy means little. But for some of us (myself, for instance) it can mean a lot in the total cost of ownership. But again -- make sure you're comparing fuel costs (e.g. diesel .vs. regular gas.)

For example my TDI Jetta wagon returns a no-BS 48mpg on the highway, and low 40s around town. Call it 45 in mixed-cycle driving. So for the 180,000 miles I have on my "6" with fuel at 3.00/gal that's ~$12,300 in fuel.

Ok, now the Mazda at 34.6mpg (actual) over the same 180,000 miles and an average fuel cost of $2.44 has consumed $12,693. In other words, almost identical in dollar terms even though the mpg on the Jetta is roughly 10mpg better! Why? Diesel fuel is more expensive. It didn't used to be; it used to frequently be cheaper than regular gas, but hasn't been for many years. The Jetta has also been stone-cold reliable, however, it has several expensive parts (e.g. turbocharger and EGR cooler) that the "6" does not. None of them have failed, but if they do you're talking about some cash to replace them -- since the "6" doesn't have them they can't fail. The injection pump on the diesel is pretty expensive to have repaired or replace as well but I have no idea what the fuel pump costs on the Skyactiv engines -- it might be kinda spendy if it does go out as well.

What if I bought a CX-5 and managed combined mpg of ~29? Now we're at $15,144 in fuel expense, which is roughly a $2,500 penalty to drive the small SUV over the sedan. Do I get more utility out of the SUV? Maybe a bit; it has a bit better ground clearance, but I've never had that be a limiting factor. Whether cargo is better depends on WHAT the cargo is; with the "6"'s seats folded it does well so long as what you are carrying isn't *tall*; if it is the CX-5 wins in that it will accept cargo the "6" will not.

But -- remember, this is over 180,000 miles of driving! If you put 15,000 miles a year on the car over the four-ish years I've owned mine the penalty is now under $1,000 for the CX-5 -- and that's not very much at all.

Where it REALLY matters is if you're coming from something like a Suburban that gets 15 mpg around town and is hard-pressed to do better than 18-19 in ANY driving conditions. Now the gas bill adds up FAST. But as your baseline fuel economy goes up the incremental dollar savings from an additional mpg becomes less and less important.
 

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GLWS. 'Value' depends so much on where you live...
FWIW, I just bought a '15 Touring with an A/T (worth more than a stick in this area), from a private individual, and paid less than you're planning to ask for yours, but more than Carmax offered you. I had a copy of what Carmax offered for this car, and while it was very slightly less than I paid, it was certainly more than they offered you for yours. If you have all your service records, that should help a bit. Mazdas still don't re-sell like Hondas and Toyotas, though they're better than they once were. Sorry...

BTW, the fuel costs tickerguy ran you through are good to keep in mind. I ran cost comparisons on all the vehicles we were considering prior to purchasing this 6. I'd suggest doing the math to see what actually makes sense for you over the duration of your probable ownership.
 

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The first Mazda6 I bought was a leftover '08. I bought it in the spring of '09. MSRP was $28,500. I bought it for less than $20,000 with all the money Mazda was throwing at it. I never cared much for it and traded it a year later. Got a whopping $13,500! So it depreciated 55% in less than 2 years. Only had 20,000 miles on it. I wised up this time and leased. The lease was $57 better a month that an Accord Touring lease and $1500 less money at signing. Plus I can buy this car for a little over $16,000 at lease end (a 55% discount after 3 years) compared to $18,300 for the Accord. The MSRP on both cars was almost identical. So in my case the lease works out better. If I were you I'd see what a Mazda dealer would give you, given their propensity for rewarding owner loyalty.
 

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Please do not get a cylinder deactivation mazda. They thought they were smart but they are not. Trying to squeeze another 10th of a mile per gallon. Stupid stupid stupid, plus there putting cars out with no parts to back them up. Would love to talk to the way overpaid mazda engineers,[ and i say that loosely.. So whatever vendors they are using for parts it's a pure joke.
 

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Cylinder de-activation is on the naturally aspirated 2.5 litre engine, only with the automatic transmission (i.e. NOT with the manual transmission), for model year 2018. I believe for model year 2019 the Mazda6 simply is NOT available anymore with the naturally aspirated 2.5 /manual transmission (i.e. only with Automatic and therefore with cylinder deactivation). The only Mazda6 I would now consider is the 2.5T version.
 

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I totally understand your comment about buying a manual transmission. For folks who put a lot of miles on their cars, and who absolutely abhor having to change the transmission / rebuild the transmission before the car is totally worn out - the answer is a manual. However:

i) very few cars, almost none, are available any more in any decent size-class or state of trim with a manual;

ii) much as I do enjoy driving a manual (it keeps my sense of involvement in the car, and it's fun) - still, I am the first to comment that it really is "off the ark" technology... and the sense of interrupting your forward progress by pushing in the clutch to shift gears - is pretty archaic and counterintuitive from an efficiency perspective.; and

iii) when I am in traffic, and someone is right on my tail, when I interrupt my smooth (and predictable) acceleration by shifting gears - well, it gives me the "heebie-jeebies" re getting smacked from behind.

The cost of a rebuild, as well as even the possibility of getting a rebuild done - seems to be a big hurdle.

The key, for me, would be do pre-emptive maintenance, keep the transmission in the right operating temp range (aux cooler, only in place for the hottest times of year - bypass the rest of the time), figure a way of doing bypass ultra-filtration, and put a transmission temperature gauge in.
 

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I don’t have all that much stop-and-go traffic to deal with, though I have a fair amount of slow-and-go. I run 75-85 miles a day, and a manual isn’t something I want to deal with in general in this usage. So, I partly console myself by looking at the fuel I save with the automatic, and how that’ll pay for a replacement if the tranny quits me at 300k+. :)
 
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