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Ok.........this is the official how-to for the Removal of our V6 Factory Header system. I unfortunatly was unable to take photos cause i was pressed for time, but i will make this as explanatory as possible.

TAKE NOTE- remove the remaining O2 sensors befor taking out the manifolds. the front manifold top O2 sensor will have to come out with the manifold out due to space confinements. mark or either remember which O2's were the post pre-cat O2 sensors....those arer the ones that the mil eliminators will have to go on.

here is where the rear O2 clips are. just below the Intake manifold:



15. use the torch to heat up the EGR tube connection on the rear manifold. heating it up will help keep from screwing the threads.
TAKE NOTE- remove the 3 EGR mounting bolts from the Intake manifold to give you a lil more movement when reinstalling it, but i left mine connected and had no problems

16 start unbolting the manifolds studs from the head. they are in there so be ready. this is where the 1/2" "swivel" ratcheting wrench comes in if you have one. ontherwise just use the regular ratchet.

****the studs are suposed to be 13-14mm.........but they are in there so good i found that using a 1/2" fit snugger and prevented me from stripping them. My advice is use the 1/2" and not the metric sizes, YOU'VE BEEN WARNED*******

****the rear manifold is the easiest of the 2****

ONCE EVERYTHING IS OUT...........JUST FOLLOW THE RESPECTIVE HEADER MANUFACTURERS INTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLATION


The angles are tough to deal with and the reaching and stretching are a pain. DO NOT BE AFRAID TO USE HEAT BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE BOLTS. heat is there for a reason.

I hope this helps.............anymore questions..........definatly ask. i will be able to pretty much explain everything. sorry for the lack of socket sizes and such but its been a minute and all i could remember was the manifold sizes because they were the biggest PITA!
 

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Thanks a bunch Justin! I'll be sure to use this when I do my header install! Just a quick question - I have a 2003, what are the odds of be breaking a bolt off in the block? That is one of my biggest fears during this removal process. The nuts that connect my headers to the block (the ones you said use a 1/2" on) are very rusted to their bolts. I plan to use a lot of PB blaster and let it soak on the for about an hour after I get to them. Thanks!
 

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Thanks a bunch Justin! I'll be sure to use this when I do my header install! Just a quick question - I have a 2003, what are the odds of be breaking a bolt off in the block? That is one of my biggest fears during this removal process. The nuts that connect my headers to the block (the ones you said use a 1/2" on) are very rusted to their bolts. I plan to use a lot of PB blaster and let it soak on the for about an hour after I get to them. Thanks![/b]

I would start soaking them days before you even attempt the install, give it plenty of time to work into the rust and cut it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks a bunch Justin! I'll be sure to use this when I do my header install! Just a quick question - I have a 2003, what are the odds of be breaking a bolt off in the block? That is one of my biggest fears during this removal process. The nuts that connect my headers to the block (the ones you said use a 1/2" on) are very rusted to their bolts. I plan to use a lot of PB blaster and let it soak on the for about an hour after I get to them. Thanks![/b]

I would start soaking them days before you even attempt the install, give it plenty of time to work into the rust and cut it up.[/b]

the head is aluminum so it is softer that the actual stud. what you can do is exactly what MARIUSVT said and soak them prior.......but honestly that would just burn off and you'd be right back to square one.......unless of coarse you soak them over night. you could do it the night prior.......

im gonna assume you'll be doing the install at home. so the night before set the car up so you wont have to move it again. and spray them up.



also............use the torch..........heat is your friend. heat those suckers up, but take note to be very careful at where you point the flame. Point right on the nut/stud and manifold........try not to put the flame on the head itself.

**granted with propane/mapp gas torch it'll take a heck of a long time to get Aluminum to its melting point, but just be careful****

those studs/nuts are on there and will take some brute strength and leverage(which is hard to get because of position) to come off. but keep at it, they'll come free.


im here for you with any other question u may have. if need be, let me know and i'll pm u my number for emergency on the fly help, lol
 

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This coming weekend, so I'll have about 2 1/2 days to do it. I'm going to take my time.
 

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can i come watch? lol. i did headers and exhaust on an integra, and it sounds like playing legos compared to this...damn.
 

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can i come watch? lol. i did headers and exhaust on an integra, and it sounds like playing legos compared to this...damn.[/b]
integras are awesome to work on. I just put some front struts on my friends, it was a cake walk.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This coming weekend, so I'll have about 2 1/2 days to do it. I'm going to take my time.[/b]
o ok.........again.......if you need help.......just ask and ill pm u my my number. if you were closer i'd just come help u


can i come watch? lol. i did headers and exhaust on an integra, and it sounds like playing legos compared to this...damn.[/b]

integras are awesome to work on. I just put some front struts on my friends, it was a cake walk.[/b]

yea hondas in general are easy as hell to work on.


Great write-up, but screw that shit. Front exhaust just not too user friendly :nono: .

Sheldon.[/b]

LMAO............it was definatly a pain in the man-piece! but worth it in the end!
 

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Why did you guys drop the sub-frame?? I didn't drop it or even lower it to fit the OBX. I find it alot easy to take off the intake manifold so you can reach for the rear header and it will give you more grip on the alternator.
 

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AHHHH TORTUREE!!!!! probably would never do that again...

i didn't remove the subframe either. whats the advantage? more space to work?

I removed the bolts on the engine block from the top as well, removing the intake manifold allows you to reach those rear hard to reach screws
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Why did you guys drop the sub-frame?? I didn't drop it or even lower it to fit the OBX. I find it alot easy to take off the intake manifold so you can reach for the rear header and it will give you more grip on the alternator.[/b]

AHHHH TORTUREE!!!!! probably would never do that again...

i didn't remove the subframe either. whats the advantage? more space to work?

I removed the bolts on the engine block from the top as well, removing the intake manifold allows you to reach those rear hard to reach screws[/b]

yea i lowered the subframe about an 1" .............and did everything from underneath, didnt even touch the IM

on the y-pipe was outta the way it was pretty easy.....just lotta strength to loosen my bolts.

i guess i can make that an addition or rather 2nd way to do the removal.
 

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Well for now I have 2 problems...

A) neither my ratchet nor my breaker bar are slim enough to fit into the spot where the tensioner is....

B) My rear O2 sensor clips are in different locations. I know there is the green one... but there are 3 others and i dont know which one to undo.
 

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Just follow the rear o2 wires up and you will know which plug is which. As for the tensioner you can move it easy with a wrench. I'll take a pix because I'm kind of tired with words.
 

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Damn, dude. You're bad-ass.

Once I saw the torch pic, I was all, "Hell, no! That'd make me crap my pants!"
 

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**UPDATE**

So far, I have the pipe connecting the cat-back and flexpipe off.... and the flexpipe part unbolted.... Just can't get the darn thing free.

All my O2 sensors are disconnected from the clips, and zip ties cut.

Gave everything a generous spray-down of PB Blaster, and plan on being back out there tomorrow morning getting this done!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the flex pipe is off of everything? did you lower the subrame a lil bit.

in order to get it out, u have to twist it torward the drvierside of the car........and tilt down the back of it so it slides out.


check your pms i sent you my number
 

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I haven't lowered the subframe, because I have one bolt on the pass. side on the tri-bolt piece that got stripped somehow. I got the other side off, just need to run to Home-Depot and get some bolt-off sockets and get it done. If it still doesn't come off after subframe dropped, I'll give you a ring.

P.S. I was bored of trying to get the flex-pipe off, so I went ahead and took off my front header disconnected all the O2 sensors. Contrary to what I've read, all my O2 sensors have come off with me barely pushing them.
 

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I got the stripped bolt of with some easy-outs, but now that big 13/16's nut is stuck. I broke 2 ratchets and an adapter on it already. I have to go to work now, so I'm going to soak some PB on it while I'm gone. I'll probably drop the subframe when I get home, pull out the flexpipes, then hit the sack. I'll finish the rest in the morning.
 
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