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Discussion Starter #1
Need Help people thanks for any info yall know of for the people doing after market Head Units.

Hello I just order the Mazda part number GJ6B-79-AGXB player, GJ6B-79-BGX panel Site I was wondering if anyone else has one of these?

The single CD player in the 6 05 skips running over bump strips on the highway etc.. This is very annoying My

old cd/mp3 player, I could be in a car wrek and would not skip. But that go stolen. :(

Does anyone else have the the upgraded cd/mp3 player for the mazda 6?

Does it still work with the wheel controls?

Does it skip a lot?

Other After Market Head Units well they work with the wheel controls like the vol etc.??

if yes and if oem mp3 player skips like the cd player then I just will cancel my order and get after market HU.


I saw this Panle for the Head Units

I would need that Panel + what ever Head unit I wanted to get?

Need Help people thanks for any info yall know of for the people doing after market Head Units.

if you have Pics of the oem mp3 HU or AfterMarket HUs please post them thanks

-MaTT
 

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I have the Mazda MP3 player, bought it new with the car. It works good and yes it works with the steering wheel controls. As far as sound quality, it will be the same as the stock CD unit. I added a sub to the trunk and I upgraded all the door speakers with Infinity speakers. I'm sure going with a new HUnit would be the way to go for better sound quality but I didnt want to get into all that hassle and expense right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the Mazda MP3 player, bought it new with the car. It works good and yes it works with the steering wheel controls. As far as sound quality, it will be the same as the stock CD unit. I added a sub to the trunk and I upgraded all the door speakers with Infinity speakers. I'm sure going with a new HUnit would be the way to go for better sound quality but I didnt want to get into all that hassle and expense right now.
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Thanks a lot, I will be going with the same setup getting in the mp3 player this thurday. I think I will wait on add the sub and other speakers.

Did you hook it up yourself or had someone else do it.

if you did it your self could you tell me how you add the sub thanks.

-MaTT
 

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Thanks a lot, I will be going with the same setup getting in the mp3 player this thurday. I think I will wait on add the sub and other speakers.

Did you hook it up yourself or had someone else do it.

if you did it your self could you tell me how you add the sub thanks.

-MaTT
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The dealer installed the unit when I purchased the vehicle.

To add the sub you must install a line output converter to add the required RCA outputs for your amplifier.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/PAC-Trunk-LOC-Adj-2-Ch-...1QQcmdZViewItem

This is the LOC I used.
 

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i upgraded to the mp3 player, it doesnt skip unless its a problem with the cd.... i installed myself and it was really simple, biggest task was taking the dash apart which isnt too big of a deal if you mess with cars and have installed any type of system... once u get the console out its plug and play, just slides right in and bam it works. The id3 tags are displayed on the top lcd screen and the random feature is still gay

i also have an amp and sub and i used the high input (speaker wire not rca) on the amp... avoids using a loc, just run speaker wire to the amp from the back of the headunit (or wherever u tap into the signal wires)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Will I have to splices into one of the speaker wires to add the sub? Is there a way to add the sub without splicing any wires together?

thanks
 

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not really... unless you replace the whole headunit with after market, you will have to splice something (with non-bose) dunno the differene for bose
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow that was fast reply back

I upgraded to the mp3 head unit from mazda and I have non bose

Now all I need to do is just add a sub so I was trying to see what the best/easy way to go about it will be.

thanks
 

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i spliced into the wires going to the front wires (saw somewhere that the fronts are better to tap into for our car).. this isnt a really hard task, if your installing a system this shouldnt be too big of a deal

then run those wires directly to your amp (if u have high level inputs) or to your LOC

p.s. i have the email notifications and yahoo messanger tells me when i get emails
 

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Discussion Starter #10
front speakers are better to splices into ok.

I have the oem mp3 player now.

If I did not want to splices into the front speaker wires, could I take off the

front doors and add wire to the original speaker wire and then I would not

have to splice into the wires.

For the people that have the oem mp3 player how are yall blocking the

bass from the other Speakers? There only limited options on the oem mp3

player just fade, bass, mid, etc. Are yall using bass blockers on the

speakers? If so, do I need to add them on the

tweaker speakers or just the ones on the front and back doors?

-MaTT
 

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wow.... what do u have against splicing wires? its not a difficult process. what u described is way more difficult complex and not the usual procedure.... and odds are everyone with the factory setup isnt using any crossovers (bassblockers)... only people that use a 4 channel amp for their door speaks are blockin the bass... i wouldnt worry about that right now if u were you.....
 

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I just installed a sub last week and just spliced the wire going from the deck.. it wasnt really hard (i used the fronts as well). I figure you gotta cut something so for better sound I went to the source.

I used a LOC as well.. i was told it's better to use that than running hi-level wires to the back (i guess because of interference and stuff).

I'm not using any high pass filters or anything on the doors. The non-bose system sounds ok with the EQ flat and the sub in the trunk. I used to have door rattles with the bass turned to +6, but now that it's flat there are no rattles whatsoever. Just make sure to adjust the gain levels properly and have a low pass filter or crossover.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just thought I need bassblockers so I dont jack up the door speakers from bass that it cant handle/getting distorted from. I did not want to pop the factory speakers so thats why I was thinking add bass blockers
 

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yea, i keep my bass on -6 unless im tryin to bump, then i put it from -2 to 0... saves the factory boys
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Any recommendations on AMP/SUB.

I used to have a kicker 12" and 250a rockford fosgate. That was back when

they were good. I heard they are not good to go with anymore. I am not

sure what is good now. I think my kicker 12" was max 400 or 500 and the

amp true watts was 500 from the 250a modle

thanks for any input
 
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