[ajb1192]

Would this be a good one to buy?

http://www.andysautosport.com/products/turbo_specialties__m625b2e.html

 

[scrubassloser]

Hey I have an 08 6i with the 5spd ATX, and I want to turbo it in the long run. Now, I want to beef up the engine and transmission to be able to handle some pretty solid power, and I was wondering what the limits are on this
also does anyone know a good list of components to beef these up to be able to handle this? this will be an overtime build, probably starting with brakes and suspension then the engine and trans, exhaust etc all before a turbo

 

[TanksAutoShop]

This will be an evolving thread, but should provide enough info that we won't have a new thread every other day asking the same questions. Please bare in mind that the info provided is based solely on my experience and opinion. Please take the info i have and use it as you will, discuss the project with your local shop/tuner/dad/brother and move forward from there. Anyone with more info please feel free to give input, but i will be cleaning this thread up as it goes, so please don't bitch.



Q: What are my options for turbo'ing my 6i?

A: The options vary currenlty. there are 5 standard answers, most can be googled for more info
1) ]HiBoost (out of business, but used kits floating around)
2) F2 (never officially release, check with GP-Werks for more info)
3) HASS (via turbokits.com) (not produced, but at least 2 kits floating around)
4) built using Mazdaspeed6 parts
5) depending on where you are, a TRUST (Greddy) kit is available, though tuning has yet to work in the states, as well as fitment issues with LHD models.


Q: Do I need to build the engine? what boost can i run "safely"?

A: The stock block has been pretty good on about 8psi on pump gas. Anything more than that the bottom end should be addressed. solid tuning and race fuel can up that #, but people have popped engines above 8psi.


Q: What about the tranny, i have an ____ (insert MTX or ATX)?

A: both tansmissions will be fine.
1- The stock MTX has a tendancy to sheer 3rd gear at times (no specific power level, just some last and others don't)
2- Both 4 & 5spd ATX trans also work, though it's recommend to run 6psi on these setups. also, an additional trans cooler is essential as well for the atx.


Q: Can i make my own, i found a good kit on ebay?

A: sure, have fun, don't cry when it doesn't work right and cost more in the long run!


Q: How much can i expect to pay?

A: Quick answer is have $5k ready to spend, or don't think about it. Now, it depends on the kit obviously. F2's stage1 will be the lowest price KIT, and HASS ranges up to $4300 i believe. You can make your own Mazdaspeed'ish setup, but it is not a kit, so prices will vary and you'll need to find your own tuning solution. The install is amazingly easy in these cars, the install would range in the 5-8 hour range if you are looking at a shop. Most KITS will come with a tune to get you started, though it's recommended to to dyno tune your specific car, which is roughly a 2 hour job, though doesn't really need to be done ASAP.


Q: What else do i need to buy?

A: If it's a true kit, then nothing! There are items to make it better, make it last long and obviously make more power....but they aren't needed. Things i would recommend you have on our short list however, as they will aid with tuning and safety.
1- a WIDEBAND (no, the narrowband you saw on ebay won't work) Air/Fuel gauge, this is a must for tuning
2- spark plugs (i REALLY like the Autolite 103's, especially in the beginning while tuning. They are UBER cheap, and work well, easy to gap also)
.....that's it, for the long list i'd add:
3- oil temp OR pressure gauge (dont' see the need for both, and no your stock gauge doesn't do anything. this is only to see problems sooner, nothing else)
4- boost controller (DO NOT ADJUST BOOST!!) A boost controller will aid in how the boost comes on and levels off, feels much better. i suggest a manual controller in the engine bay that you CAN'T touch while driving)

.....There are other things, but they are not turbo related, they are performance related. (things like limited slips, clutch/fly, better rubber). you DO NOT need a turbo timer if you have any common sense, you can, but you are just spending money.





This is all the basic info on the setups that i could think of. For the most part, an 8psi intercooled kit on a STOCK 6i MTX in the 225whp range, the ATX (6psi) at just over 200whp. Power will be increased with an exhaust, which most have anyhow, but it's not needed to enjoy boosting.

notes for the ATX guys:

'03-'05 6i's with the 4spd have an off the shelf option to upgrade both their valvebodies and torque converter from Lentechautomatics.com, or whole tranny if you'd like. The valvbodies help out an amazing amount, and allow for a bit more boost if you want, the converter allows for a higher stall speed which is nice if you powerbrake often (the strip) and they can also remove the lock-up setup which can be a bitch when having fun on highway cruising.

'05+ 5spd ATX's have faster/tighter shifting out of the box, so that is a nice start. If valvebodies are something you want (as they can be improved quite a bit), Levelten.com has experience with them, though you need to remove yours and send it to them for the work.

Both models- please take a minute to understand how your ATX works, and then understand why i say you should always let your foot off the gas between WOT shifts. It is not something that will brake the tranny in one time, but please understand it's not recommended as the boost is still being applied while the tranny is trying to shift. Also, for the same reason, if you are cruising on the hwy while the converter is in lockup, DO NOT just slam it to the floor, it's not good for it either, a quick blip or downshift will safe a lot of trouble.


Now, i know of roughly 6 turbo'd 6i's that are (or have been) daily drivable, there are currently 4 on this forum actively i believe (as of 6/09). I would imagine all would attest that it's a friggin blast to drive, and the smile doesn't leave your face! The car is still pretty light at just over 3k, so the addition of 80-90WHP (about 60%) makes a huge difference in feel. But keep in mind that it costs roughly $5k on the low side for the setup, which is anywhere from 25-50% of what the car is worth, premium gas is required now, and it's hard to go back to stock if you think it's temporary. In the 4 years i've been turbo'd and talking to people about it, i've found that if your plan is more than 6 months (it's more like 3-4) out, then you won't get it. If you have 90% of the money in hand and are serious, go for it, but if not, there's not need for a billion questions that don't go anywhere, please just read what's on here already and enjoy the dream (it's cheaper!)

This link will always show you all the current topics for turbo's on the 6i's:

Turbo threads


here's a few vids that have been around forever, but if you are new you might like them.

I got a 2005 Mazda 6 2.3 I I need the T3 T4 exhaust manifold header I cannot find it anywhere online does anyone know where I can purchase one I have to Turbo and the cold air intake where can I find one only ones for the Mazdaspeed?

 

[RiveraJ]

I have a 2006 mazda 6 i sport with 5 speed manual.
Just went turbo. Exact turbo setup im running is from Arsenys Mazda 3, but for MPS6. Top mount turbo with custom extended downpipe. Right now Its running on stock n/a ecu without going into boost the car runs excellent. My Air/fuel guage pin says it at rich just ontop of optimal level. Will get it tuned eventually. Right now for 2 years straight Since the “new” transmission, it puts me on limp mode, sometimes when I turn on car to use. Ive had it scanned and its always the same code P0606 but in order to take off limp mode and I can still run car perfectly is by disconnecting battery. Anyways if Anyone can help with that , Excellent hmu asap!.
Will be swapping to 2.5 soon and hopefully accomplish the mazdaspeed 3 trans swap with these: Mps3 - trans, clutch kit and intermediate shaft(middle shaft) and for the Mps6 - driver side axle, hub and bearing to make the mps3 trans work on any 2.3 or 2.5 swapped mazda 6 1st gen