Turbo for the 2.3 6i
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so if i wanted to take the cheap route for now to see how this project works out . I was thinking on getting the ebay downpipe and manifold I know it might not be top quality but dont want to spend 1500 to test things out. I am not sure if catted or catless will be the way to go . I live in florida so i dont have emissions to go threw . Maybe in the future i can bay a high flow cat and weld it on but wanted to get some info. I was looking at these so far they seem to look good but let me know what you think
Exhaust Racing Downpipe Down Pipe for Mazda 05-07 Mazdaspeed 6 MS6 Turbo 2.3L 06 | eBay
04 05 06 MAZDA3 2.0L 2.3L CAST TURBO MANIFOLD MAZDA 3 | eBay
here is a kit with the turbo
03 04 05-09 MAZDA 3 2.3L MZR T3/T4 TURBO MANIFOLD KIT | eBay
Exhaust Racing Downpipe Down Pipe for Mazda 05-07 Mazdaspeed 6 MS6 Turbo 2.3L 06 | eBay
04 05 06 MAZDA3 2.0L 2.3L CAST TURBO MANIFOLD MAZDA 3 | eBay
here is a kit with the turbo
03 04 05-09 MAZDA 3 2.3L MZR T3/T4 TURBO MANIFOLD KIT | eBay
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Does anybody know where I can get the exhaust manifold for the turbo I'm putting on my Mazda 6i
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You can get one from here http://www.protegegarage.com/1545-product-1545.html
I think that this extractor is designed to take the standard turbo supplied by BorgWarner but don't quote me on that. I know that we had to cut off the flange and weld on a T3 flange so I could fit the GT2871R turbo.
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You can build your car up out of the turbo from the speed 6.
Its not just a simple as a bolt on tho
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Its not just a simple as a bolt on tho
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
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:huh:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/2-3l-i-4/227437-turbo-2-3-6i.html
Did you not read aaaany of this thread? Page 1, post 1. Its ALOT more involved than just "bolting on" the hard parts, our 2.3 isnt built to the same specs as the speed6 mill. Nor are the NA trans options. Not to mention upgrading the cooling systems, wiring harness, and either ecu re-programming or replacement, fuel system and exhaust upgrading. And thats probably not even half of what im forgetting/cant thing of right now. for real though, READ the full thread and it will answer alot of your questions. Also.......Search is your friend
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Just to necro this awesome thread a bit...
...I've done a lot of research and a lot of searching but can't find a definitive answer on this one. I'm swapping in a MazdaSpeed6 turbo, exhaust manifold and aftermarket downpipe into my '08 Mazda6i Touring vehicle. I think I have all the bases covered but when discussing tuning with OVT he mentioned recirculating the BOV back into the intake manifold. Well, there's a rub as there's no real way to do that easily that we've found UNLESS the MazdaSpeed6 intake manifold is a direct swap. I believe there's a port already located on that manifold for exactly this purpose. SO - IS that a direct swap? I read somewhere that the MS6 is a direct injection engine and as such, that pretty much changes everything. However, there was only that one mention and want to verify that that is the case and it's truly a showstopper.
If that IS a show stopper, has anyone ever added a port somehow to the regular intake manifold to function in this manner? Drilling and epoxying a port somehow to a composite/plastic manifold gives me the heebie jeebies. We've considered getting a couple of throttle body spacers, welding them together, drilling and welding a port there, but now we're moving things pretty far out of whack and are unsure if we'll run into other fitment problems at that point.
Appreciate any advice or thoughts,
G.
...I've done a lot of research and a lot of searching but can't find a definitive answer on this one. I'm swapping in a MazdaSpeed6 turbo, exhaust manifold and aftermarket downpipe into my '08 Mazda6i Touring vehicle. I think I have all the bases covered but when discussing tuning with OVT he mentioned recirculating the BOV back into the intake manifold. Well, there's a rub as there's no real way to do that easily that we've found UNLESS the MazdaSpeed6 intake manifold is a direct swap. I believe there's a port already located on that manifold for exactly this purpose. SO - IS that a direct swap? I read somewhere that the MS6 is a direct injection engine and as such, that pretty much changes everything. However, there was only that one mention and want to verify that that is the case and it's truly a showstopper.
If that IS a show stopper, has anyone ever added a port somehow to the regular intake manifold to function in this manner? Drilling and epoxying a port somehow to a composite/plastic manifold gives me the heebie jeebies. We've considered getting a couple of throttle body spacers, welding them together, drilling and welding a port there, but now we're moving things pretty far out of whack and are unsure if we'll run into other fitment problems at that point.
Appreciate any advice or thoughts,
G.
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5,894 Posts
You don't need to route the the BPV/BOV back to the intake manifold. People typically do this on draw thru MAF setups where venting to atmosphere would cause a temporary rich condition after a shift because metered air is vented off and lost.
There are two ways to fix this:
1. Run a blow thru MAF setup and have the BOV/BPV plumbed prior to MAF so no metered air is lost. Blowthru setups are far more accurate in terms of air volume and air temperature metering accuracy on a boosted app. Some people go draw thru simply because they are in fear of saturating the MAF (flowing more than the MAF can meter). But blowthru is the best in terms of accuracy. There are also ways to keep the MAF from saturating and increasing range.
2. Tuning TIP-IN enrichment
If I were you I would not waste time on a K04 or the stock speed manifold. Get an aftermarket speed manifold with a T3 flange. Why? Because it opens up numerous turbo options. Just my educated opinion
The speed6 intake manifold will not bolt up to your regular 2.3L...... If you really insist on running recirc for the BPV/BOV and/or draw thru MAF setup just route it back to the turbo inlet/intake between the compressor housing and MAF. Just be sure to have about 6" from the port and the MAF to help reduce or eliminate reverberations
Any questions or further help don't hesitate to hit me up here or on my tuning page in my Sig.
There are two ways to fix this:
1. Run a blow thru MAF setup and have the BOV/BPV plumbed prior to MAF so no metered air is lost. Blowthru setups are far more accurate in terms of air volume and air temperature metering accuracy on a boosted app. Some people go draw thru simply because they are in fear of saturating the MAF (flowing more than the MAF can meter). But blowthru is the best in terms of accuracy. There are also ways to keep the MAF from saturating and increasing range.
2. Tuning TIP-IN enrichment
If I were you I would not waste time on a K04 or the stock speed manifold. Get an aftermarket speed manifold with a T3 flange. Why? Because it opens up numerous turbo options. Just my educated opinion
The speed6 intake manifold will not bolt up to your regular 2.3L...... If you really insist on running recirc for the BPV/BOV and/or draw thru MAF setup just route it back to the turbo inlet/intake between the compressor housing and MAF. Just be sure to have about 6" from the port and the MAF to help reduce or eliminate reverberations
Any questions or further help don't hesitate to hit me up here or on my tuning page in my Sig.
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Also....what are your power goals? Built engine or keeping it stock?
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Have you tuned draw through vs blow through on the stock ECU? I'd suggest actually doing it before recommending lol, I've done both setups.
Draw through absolutely requires it be routed back into the intake if you want stock like drivability. It will run rich / bog/ even stall at times on shifts if you don't, and especially if you go into boost then go out of gear and down to idle you'll stall.
and with blow through MAF placement, MAF housing size, etc all come into play, and it just won't run right in boost unless you're very, very meticulous with MAF placement, and how much straight section of piping there is before the maf. You'll get MAF range /performance CEL's and limp mode often. I know, I've done it on my personal car trying with a few different MAF housings on stock ECU. Draw through ended up being the easier, better performing option.
And with the MAF through as soon as you hit 4.9 volts on the MAF the ECU kills power and you limp until you shut it off and back on, which is much easier to do on blow-through.
Agreed the K04 isn't the nicest option, but it is cheap, and can flow more than enough for someone who doesn't have a built engine.
Also- the bov recirculates back into the intake after the MAF, not the intake manifold
I attached a picture, not the best since it's not a mazda, but it does have a MAF and recirculating BOV. see how the BOV has a pipe going from the BOV to the intake behind the MAF? just like that.
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Thanks fellas, I really appreciate the advice, thoughts and explanations. We decided to stick with the "stock" manifold and turbo because we're not looking to make anything more than 8psi. We've got a weak automatic transmission (evidently) and it's the stock engine, so there's no need for anything crazy or really, for much of an upgrade path from here. This is primarily a project to add a couple of horses to a fun daily driver and learn a bunch in the process. By using parts that come off the shelf we hope to keep the cost down, simplify the install and work with fairly well known items. Once we step off into the esoteric and custom everything, well, bring in the bobcat with the cubic yard of dollars - and we aren't playing that game just yet.Have you tuned draw through vs blow through on the stock ECU? I'd suggest actually doing it before recommending lol, I've done both setups.
Draw through absolutely requires it be routed back into the intake if you want stock like drivability. It will run rich / bog/ even stall at times on shifts if you don't, and especially if you go into boost then go out of gear and down to idle you'll stall.
and with blow through MAF placement, MAF housing size, etc all come into play, and it just won't run right in boost unless you're very, very meticulous with MAF placement, and how much straight section of piping there is before the maf. You'll get MAF range /performance CEL's and limp mode often. I know, I've done it on my personal car trying with a few different MAF housings on stock ECU. Draw through ended up being the easier, better performing option.
And with the MAF through as soon as you hit 4.9 volts on the MAF the ECU kills power and you limp until you shut it off and back on, which is much easier to do on blow-through.
Agreed the K04 isn't the nicest option, but it is cheap, and can flow more than enough for someone who doesn't have a built engine.
Also- the bov recirculates back into the intake after the MAF, not the intake manifold
I attached a picture, not the best since it's not a mazda, but it does have a MAF and recirculating BOV. see how the BOV has a pipe going from the BOV to the intake behind the MAF? just like that.
Hence hoping to simplify things with an MS6 intake. HOWEVER, by being able to plumb it right back into the intake after the MAF somewhere, that'll certainly make things easy too; easier than replacing the intake manifold anyway. But man, my brain is telling me that'd just end up being a big pressurized loop... If you let up after being hard into the gas... the throttle body butterfly closes/the turbo is still compressing air for a moment or three, which hits the closed TB, sending pressure back toward the turbo... the BOV, sensing that pressure, opens... and plumbs that pressurized air right back in front of the throttle body...? Which is closed still? Or mostly closed anyway.
Coming from the LSx engine world, I ditched the MAF and run strictly MAP/speed density so this is kind of boggling my brain. Especially since I haven't really had to think about it since doing it the other way seven years ago. lol Running the MAF on those tends to do exactly what TGNY says even though the software we use allows for ways around it - though those ways aren't as elegant, predictable or as solid as just going SD.
[Pre-submit edit]: GAH. After looking at that picture (for the fifth time) and re-reading what The Great NY said again (actually it was more like five or six times too lol), we're plumbing the BOV back in before the turbo. :| Duh. That makes more sense. <sigh>
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Actually yes I have done it before...on numerous platforms. As I don't only deal with Mazdas. On stock Ecu's, standalones, and piggybacks. Hence my semi detailed description of how to do it and knowledge of which route is more accurate. This is not my first go around with this stuff. It does not need to be recirculated if you tune the proper tables. Or in mazdaedits case....find them or make them.
Anyway,
Speed density definitely has its adavantages. For 8psi that you wish to run it'd be fairly simple. But as unsaid...I wouldn't waste time messing with the K04 for 8psi. It doesn't flow much.
Anyway,
Speed density definitely has its adavantages. For 8psi that you wish to run it'd be fairly simple. But as unsaid...I wouldn't waste time messing with the K04 for 8psi. It doesn't flow much.
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And that pic is a good clear example of the recirculation of what I was saying. Good add
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There is no tables in mazdaedit that will make running a VTA bov possible without rich afr on shift / throttle let off. I have defined every single map on these denso roms for 2.0L and 2.3L, and mitsu 2.5L. Making the tables as in low level program / coding them would be so much work it's not worth it for a single ROM.
I understand you tune various platforms, I'm just saying we have tried and tested specifically these ECU's to ensure what works best, and Draw through is great, and would work perfect as a hybrid SD/MAF, but MAF alone it can cause some issues.
It's much easier, simpler, to just do draw through with recirc bov.
Deleted other posts because my phone multiposted sorry
I understand you tune various platforms, I'm just saying we have tried and tested specifically these ECU's to ensure what works best, and Draw through is great, and would work perfect as a hybrid SD/MAF, but MAF alone it can cause some issues.
It's much easier, simpler, to just do draw through with recirc bov.
Deleted other posts because my phone multiposted sorry
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Must get a lot of cali Mazda 6 cars then....because those are the only 2.3L Mazda 6's that came with Denso ECU's.
I don't have time to argue with you. OP, I'm around if you need me.
I don't have time to argue with you. OP, I'm around if you need me.
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282 Posts
Plenty of non Cali mazda 6's had Denso ECU's lol they are just low emissions ECU.. uncluding the mazda 6 MZR-CD Diesel
Regardless the ROM data is the same
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