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Replaced my poor excuse for a trunk light bulb in my 2014 6. During other upkeep and washing my kid broke the cover. Does anyone know the part number or where I can aquire a new one?

Thanks in advance!
 

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I took mine off and left it off, mainly cause i wanted to do this to it cause that bulb is a sorry pathetic excuse for illumination lol.

View attachment 242102
If ever my hands get itchy to do things on its own, I'll try this one day. Is that a regular LED strip? I am somehow afraid of messing up the electronics of the car as I've read somewhere here that lights and other things are now "all" controlled electronically. And also, there's no fuse to protect the electronic board or something?
 

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If ever my hands get itchy to do things on its own, I'll try this one day. Is that a regular LED strip? I am somehow afraid of messing up the electronics of the car as I've read somewhere here that lights and other things are now "all" controlled electronically. And also, there's no fuse to protect the electronic board or something?
I did the math once, that double wide 5050 strip pulls less than the bulb that was in there IIRC. You can get by with a lot fewer LED's, i snagged a few of the LED bulbs off eBay and used the base as an adapter. No it doesnt need to be water proof/IP67.
 

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If ever my hands get itchy to do things on its own, I'll try this one day. Is that a regular LED strip? I am somehow afraid of messing up the electronics of the car as I've read somewhere here that lights and other things are now "all" controlled electronically. And also, there's no fuse to protect the electronic board or something?
Just unplug the negative from the battery and you should be fine. Installed mine with a a snap down connector so I can just plug in a new strip if it goes bad.

242104
 

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@TalonTsi90 and @guy989 wasn't there some weird math involved with making sure you had to have within a specific range of electrical draw or else you could fry the little board for that light, or did you guys bypass it altogether? That was the main reason I hadn't done this yet, since we had a thread here at one point talking about potential issues and replacing that board wasn't cheap.
 

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@TalonTsi90 and @guy989 wasn't there some weird math involved with making sure you had to have within a specific range of electrical draw or else you could fry the little board for that light, or did you guys bypass it altogether? That was the main reason I hadn't done this yet, since we had a thread here at one point talking about potential issues and replacing that board wasn't cheap.
That is exactly what I wanted to ask! It should be easy to calculate for the current, Ampere, given that you have 12 VDC and you should see the power output of the bulb, but who knows what exactly is the output of the board.

I'm interested with this "math" so please post the figures and how did you arrived with it.

And please, I hope you didn't need to use Fourier series or Laplace transform.
 

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You need over 300 5050 LED chips to equal a 6A draw. I said i used an LED bulb for that socket to adapt, so no i didnt bypass anything. The bulb thats in there is 7W, 5050 chips draw 4.1W/1'. At most im drawing about 12.3 W for the little bit of time the trunk is ever open.
 

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May I see the snap down connector?
242111


The connector looks like this and I soldered the wires to a led bulb socket that I took apart as well. This allows for easy replacement if the strip for any reason. Just slide the new led contacts on or off. I believe the issue that people were having was not disconnecting the battery before replacing the bulb.
 

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View attachment 242111

The connector looks like this and I soldered the wires to a led bulb socket that I took apart as well. This allows for easy replacement if the strip for any reason. Just slide the new led contacts on or off. I believe the issue that people were having was not disconnecting the battery before replacing the bulb.
Thank you for the detailed pictures.
 

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Although for the trunk light it's not completely necessary, but I've added anyway a small circuit with a voltage regulator (eg. LM2940CT-12V), two capacitors (22uF, 47uF) and a small 250mA fuse behind my LED strip (50cm long 3538 with 30 diodes what consumes roughly 2.4W). It keeps the voltage around 12V constantly and if there's a short circuit I don't have to replace the RBCM... :)
 

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Although for the trunk light it's not completely necessary, but I've added anyway a small circuit with a voltage regulator (eg. LM2940CT-12V), two capacitors (22uF, 47uF) and a small 250mA fuse behind my LED strip (50cm long 3538 with 30 diodes what consumes roughly 2.4W). It keeps the voltage around 12V constantly and if there's a short circuit I don't have to replace the RBCM... :)
May I know how did you connect the capacitors? Is it parallel or series? I skipped classes during my electronics class, so I hope you can give a detailed connection with diagram if possible.
 

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I didn't have a diagram, as the one in the IC's datasheet was fine, but it was something like this:
242113

Capacitors are usually marked, if not the longer leg is positive.

Edit: some electrical or LED store sells ready-to-use stuff like this one, so you only need to wire it in:
242114
 

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I didn't have a diagram, as the one in the IC's datasheet was fine, but it was something like this:
View attachment 242113
Capacitors are usually marked, if not the longer leg is positive.

Edit: some electrical or LED store sells ready-to-use stuff like this one, so you only need to wire it in:
View attachment 242114
Great! I'll look for that one. I know it's redundant as mentioned but I prefer to have it done like that. Thanks.
 
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